My First Router Project... how would you do it? - Router Forums
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-09-2010, 11:42 AM Thread Starter
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Default My First Router Project... how would you do it?

The attached photo is the first project I plan to build. It's to hold the odd shaped books in my daughter's collection (she's 2). The material between the dowels is canvas. I know it's simple but it looks like a good starting point for me.

This is what I plan on doing, please let me know your thoughts if there's an easier/better way to do this. In this case the process is as important as the end product.

I'll cut the side supports out of 1/2" or 3/4" plywood using a circular saw and/or hand saw (I don't have a table saw). Once I cut one I'll trace it and cut out the other one.

For the curvature at the bottom of the side supports I plan on drawing it with pencil then cut with a jigsaw (no band saw or scroll saw). Probably not circular shape.


It looks like the back support doesn't go all the way to the top. I can either attach it to the back edge of the side supports (seems easier this way, but not much learning involved), or route a groove (or dado? not sure of terminology yet) in the side supports and slide it in. It seems stronger this way. I plan on gluing everything so no fasteners are visible.

I will route the edges of the 3 boards with a roundover bit for a nicer look (except for the back board sides that slide in the groove).

For the holes in the side supports for the dowels I plan on measuring 5 equal spacings then drill 1/2 way deep into the wood using my drill press and a forstner bit. Cut dowels to length, glue in place.


Questions:

1) When drilling the 5 holes for the dowels, how can I drill the corresponding 5 holes on the other board so the dowels are parallel to each other and the floor when assembled?

2) If routing a groove in the side supports to hold the back support - is there a way to set up the table fence so both grooves are in the same location and have the same length? I guess I set up some kind of stop. Keep in mind the grooves do not go the entire length of the board, and they are closer to one edge than the other.

3) When rounding over the edges of the boards, what stops the bit from going too deep into the wood? Is this where a template is necessary, or is there some other method?

4) There doesn't appear to be much router work here - any suggestions on how to get more practice with the router on this piece?
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-09-2010, 12:27 PM
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Let Me try to help. What I would do is to use a piece of tissue paper. Mark each location on the paper, and transfer from paper to the pieces. The left side uses the back side od the tissue paper . transfer to the left board. The right side transfer the marks from the side that You drew on. That will allow the marks to be in the same location. The other way is to make a sketch on a paper. Mark the vertical distance from the bottom of the wood vertical piece. Mark it on a piece of paper. Also mark on your sketch the horizontal measurements by measuring from the ba ck, to the front of each piece. Both will get You where You wand to mark out the drill points. The first way will be a bit easier because, You only need to transfer the drill points too the boards. As far as the grooves being in the same place on both. The router has two holes that come from the router near the bottom. You should have them face You when holding the router up in front of You. Those are used with a fence. If You have two metal rods, or a fence that attachés to the router, You can use that fence to hold the router at the same distance around each piece. Hope this helps You! Happy building

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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-09-2010, 02:21 PM
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You can use a piece of Pegboard as a template for your hole drilling. Cut a piece the appropriate length then mark the holes you want to use. Line up the same edge (i.e. bottom or top) on both sides. Use the one face of the pegboard for one side and the other face for the other side, this assures you have the holes lined up. If you use the same face on both side of your case the holes won't line up. Use a pencil to mark the holes BEFORE you drill and then check to make sure they are lined up properly.
You are on the right track for cutting the stopped dados on the back edges. Set your fence to the distance you want the dado and use a stop. You will have to make two different fence and stop setups, one for each side. Always mark the face (light pencil or chalk) that will go against the table so you don't mix them up. (This I learned from experience. ) You can modify the design and make the dados go all the way through and put a full back on it. This eliminates the need for the stop.
Use a roundover bit with a bearing in your table to roundover the edges. The bearing is what stops the wood from going too deep. Don't use the fence but use a starting pin and rout the edges freehand.
More router practice? You could rout a small design in the sides on the outer faces. Your daughter's initial maybe? That is more freehand practice with the router, and I would practice on some scrap before you attempt the real thing. Other then that, just look for more of these small type projects. That will keep you and your router busy!

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I measured, I marked, I cut.
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Last edited by CanuckGal; 07-09-2010 at 04:42 PM.
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-09-2010, 02:27 PM
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Hi Guido

This when the templates and guides come into play

"dowel". no better tool for drilling dowel holes than the router, this is what I would suggest 1st.drill your dowel holes on the one part, than drop in the dowel center marker and put template of the top of the dowel markers and tap the stock, than drill out the holes for a 3/4" guide,flip your template over to the other side, lock it in place and drop your router into the holes you just drill in the template, the holes will be dead on with the other side..use 1/2" scrap MDF for your one time template...

Almost all round over bits come with a bearing, it's just like a fence or a template to stop the bit from going to deep..

Buy more than one set, they come in very handing for doweling
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...owel%20centers
========

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gweedz View Post
The attached photo is the first project I plan to build. It's to hold the odd shaped books in my daughter's collection (she's 2). The material between the dowels is canvas. I know it's simple but it looks like a good starting point for me.

This is what I plan on doing, please let me know your thoughts if there's an easier/better way to do this. In this case the process is as important as the end product.

I'll cut the side supports out of 1/2" or 3/4" plywood using a circular saw and/or hand saw (I don't have a table saw). Once I cut one I'll trace it and cut out the other one.

For the curvature at the bottom of the side supports I plan on drawing it with pencil then cut with a jigsaw (no band saw or scroll saw). Probably not circular shape.


It looks like the back support doesn't go all the way to the top. I can either attach it to the back edge of the side supports (seems easier this way, but not much learning involved), or route a groove (or dado? not sure of terminology yet) in the side supports and slide it in. It seems stronger this way. I plan on gluing everything so no fasteners are visible.

I will route the edges of the 3 boards with a roundover bit for a nicer look (except for the back board sides that slide in the groove).

For the holes in the side supports for the dowels I plan on measuring 5 equal spacings then drill 1/2 way deep into the wood using my drill press and a forstner bit. Cut dowels to length, glue in place.


Questions:

1) When drilling the 5 holes for the dowels, how can I drill the corresponding 5 holes on the other board so the dowels are parallel to each other and the floor when assembled?

2) If routing a groove in the side supports to hold the back support - is there a way to set up the table fence so both grooves are in the same location and have the same length? I guess I set up some kind of stop. Keep in mind the grooves do not go the entire length of the board, and they are closer to one edge than the other.

3) When rounding over the edges of the boards, what stops the bit from going too deep into the wood? Is this where a template is necessary, or is there some other method?

4) There doesn't appear to be much router work here - any suggestions on how to get more practice with the router on this piece?



"It's fine to disagree with other members as long as you respect their opinions"

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http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT-n...RWaEpMA/videos

Find all threads started by bobj3
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Last edited by bobj3; 07-09-2010 at 02:33 PM.
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-09-2010, 03:14 PM Thread Starter
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Deb,
When you say I will have to make 2 different fence setups to cut the stopped dados, will I have to use both sides of the fence? I'm asking because I don't see how I can use the same side of the fence without feeding one piece backwards (left to right). There is only 1 edge of the board parallel to the dado.
I like your idea of her initials on the side.

Bob,
About using the dowel center markers... instead of making the template, why not put the markers on the drilled board, and then smack the boards together and drill on the other board where the 5 dimples are created?
When you recommend drilling the dowel holes with a router... does this still apply with my fixed base router?

I don't want you to think I'm ignoring all your template advice so I think I've come up with the perfect excuse to make a template (and make you happy ). Let's say I create a template the same shape as the side support. Then I place it on the plywood and follow around the template with the largest guide I have. This will cut out the shape of the template in the plywood, but a little larger, which is OK. THEN, without moving the template I trace the router around it again BUT with the smallest guide and using a v-groove bit to make a decorative groove about 1" from the edge. Then I repeat everything for the other support. Does this make sense? If so, how do I keep the template and plywood from moving relative to each other? If I use clamps I can't go all the way around with the router, unless I constantly move the clamps.


Nooooow I understand the part about rounding the edge using the bearing as a guide... for some reason I was thinking the bit would round both corners of the edge at the same time, but by doing 1 corner at a time the bearing has something to rest on. That makes sense.
If I can't install a starter pin on my table (someone said it's too thin), I'll try doing it hand held.

Thank you everyone...it's all starting to make sense now...
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-09-2010, 04:59 PM
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Not both sides of the fence. In order to rout stopped dados you have to either move the fence or drop one board onto the spinning bit. If you set up your fence and stop for the first dado and lay both your side pieces inside face down on the table and consider that you have to rout both in the same direction (right to left) it will become clear what I mean about moving the fence and the stop. If you decide to cut the dados without the stop (from one end of the board to the other) you would not have to move the fence for the second cut, just turn the board around (do NOT flip it over...remember inside face against the table on BOTH pieces.) If it's still not clear, let me know and I'll get out the camera and take some pictures to explain it.

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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-09-2010, 05:14 PM
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Hi Guido

Yes that will work, if you don't mind having the nasty look of dowels showing on the out side of the project, I can't think of anything that looks as bad as dowels showing, it's almost as bad as a 16p nail showing ..a real eye sore..many use plugs to cover a screw heads but they will never match the wood you put them in.. but it's just my 2 cents..

You can use a fix base router just like a plunge base router, it just takes more work and care from you.. it's not locked in place until you do so..you can use the ring as the stop point..

===========

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gweedz View Post
Deb,
When you say I will have to make 2 different fence setups to cut the stopped dados, will I have to use both sides of the fence? I'm asking because I don't see how I can use the same side of the fence without feeding one piece backwards (left to right). There is only 1 edge of the board parallel to the dado.
I like your idea of her initials on the side.

Bob,
About using the dowel center markers... instead of making the template, why not put the markers on the drilled board, and then smack the boards together and drill on the other board where the 5 dimples are created?
When you recommend drilling the dowel holes with a router... does this still apply with my fixed base router?

I don't want you to think I'm ignoring all your template advice so I think I've come up with the perfect excuse to make a template (and make you happy ). Let's say I create a template the same shape as the side support. Then I place it on the plywood and follow around the template with the largest guide I have. This will cut out the shape of the template in the plywood, but a little larger, which is OK. THEN, without moving the template I trace the router around it again BUT with the smallest guide and using a v-groove bit to make a decorative groove about 1" from the edge. Then I repeat everything for the other support. Does this make sense? If so, how do I keep the template and plywood from moving relative to each other? If I use clamps I can't go all the way around with the router, unless I constantly move the clamps.


Nooooow I understand the part about rounding the edge using the bearing as a guide... for some reason I was thinking the bit would round both corners of the edge at the same time, but by doing 1 corner at a time the bearing has something to rest on. That makes sense.
If I can't install a starter pin on my table (someone said it's too thin), I'll try doing it hand held.

Thank you everyone...it's all starting to make sense now...



"It's fine to disagree with other members as long as you respect their opinions"

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http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT-n...RWaEpMA/videos

Find all threads started by bobj3
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-10-2010, 06:40 AM
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My suggestion would be to mark the lines using any of the methods mentioned then use biscuit joints, they are so fast, and simple with no accurate measuring required making dowelling seem like a precision job only for professionals.

Harry



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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-12-2010, 08:31 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CanuckGal View Post
... or drop one board onto the spinning bit.
I didn't think I could do this - but it now makes sense. So for example, one board (the left one) I will route from the edge to approx. 10" in (it's a stopped dado). The other board I will drop on the bit at the 10" mark, and rout to the edge. Both board moving right to left.

In order to rout the right side board without dropping it on the bit, would I have to rotate the board 180 deg., move the fence away from the bit, then go right to left 10". I understand this part but the board is angled so the dado won't be parallel to the back edge. But then again, I guess I could always cut the angle after routing the dado.

So it looks like there's a few ways to skin the cat... and I did learn about the dropping the board on the spinning bit tip... thanks!!!
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-12-2010, 08:39 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobj3 View Post
Yes that will work, if you don't mind having the nasty look of dowels showing on the out side of the project
Maybe I didn't come across as clear as I had hoped (I'm sure I'm using all the wrong terminoligy that is confusing the heck out of you all)

Here is what I planned in my head... I drill/rout 1/2 depth on the inside of 1 panel, insert the dowel center markers and then bring the 2 panels together - inside face to inside face - then drill 1/2 depth on the inside face of the other panel. No holes would be through holes.

It's perfectly clear in my head (which is not saying much )
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