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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 08-05-2010, 12:53 PM Thread Starter
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Default mitre lock bits

I am interested in using mitre lock bits to make the mitred corners on speaker cabinets. I am an experienced cabinet maker, and I used to live and die by my routers ( at one time I had eleven routers, I was so proud! ), but I have never used a mitre lock of any kind. I wondered if anybody could give me any advice. Thanks!
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 08-05-2010, 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by gnarlywood View Post
I am interested in using mitre lock bits to make the mitred corners on speaker cabinets. I am an experienced cabinet maker, and I used to live and die by my routers ( at one time I had eleven routers, I was so proud! ), but I have never used a mitre lock of any kind. I wondered if anybody could give me any advice. Thanks!

I have two but haven't used them yet. I understand they can be a bear to setup properly but ince done, they work very well. Also, you should create a setup gauge once you have them setup. It should be the same thickness as the pieces you're mitring and you should mark it with the thickness and keep it.

Also, the pieces being mitred should be the same thickness.

That's all I know so far. I suspect that it would be recommended not to use these bits in plywood but I would probably try it anyway.
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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 08-05-2010, 06:19 PM
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Depending on which brand you buy, you can actually get a corresponding "quick set" jig. Freud and Sommerfeld both have them. Its basically just a plastic gauge type tool that you align with the cutter. Once the tool slides into the cutter correctly, you are at the correct bit height. The tool adjusts for different thickness materials, and it works for much more than just the normal 45 degree lock miter bit.

If you go with another brand, you would just use the trial and error method (which actually isnt that bad....after a few tries I had my Whiteside lock miter almost perfectly dialed in for some HD-bought pine that I was playing with)

The joint it creates sure is nice. I read a how-to where someone suggested "burnishing" the corner of the joints, to create what looks like a seamless piece. I might give it a shot (I think they suggested just a stiff piece of plastic to round over each sharp miter edge). its possible, though, if the joint is tight enough that paint or the glue itself could just fill it nicely.
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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 08-06-2010, 09:05 AM
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I used one to make speaker cabinets in MDF!! Not the best material but I must say that I am pleased with the result. You do need a solid and tall vertical fence on the table and setting it all up can be a pain until you get your head around it and then it is easy. I found some advice on this forum which I will try to find again.

Steve

Here's the set up data I used :- http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops...ockmtr0911.pdf

Last edited by Barreller; 08-06-2010 at 09:19 AM. Reason: Found the link!
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 08-06-2010, 07:15 PM
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The joint it creates sure is nice. I read a how-to where someone suggested "burnishing" the corner of the joints, to create what looks like a seamless piece. I might give it a shot (I think they suggested just a stiff piece of plastic to round over each sharp miter edge). its possible, though, if the joint is tight enough that paint or the glue itself could just fill it nicely.
To burnish a corner joint you just need a round shaft like the shank on a screwdriver. You rub the corner joint to fold the edge into each other to help close the joint up even more. This sometimes will help the joint look like a tight fit, but it can't hide a joint that is just open too much.

James
Whittier, CA.

Have a nice & safe day!
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