I'm big fan of the insert plate, it doesn't need to be 9" x 12" the normal size, it can be as small as 8" x 8" if you want it to be.if you remove the handles that are not needed in the router table the norm,, the real advantage about the insert plate, you can pop the router out if nothing more than to blow out the router motor, routers are not made to run upside down all the time, plus you pop the router out to change out the router bit easy, you will hear many say they have a hard time switching out the bit in a router table not so with the pop out router, the nut(s) are wide open when you pop it out of the table..the PC type routers are easy ,it can unscrew the router motor and do the same thing but you are on your knees, why not just do it right from the get go..
Some will say that big hole in the top will weaken the top, I say the router is only 14 lbs. the norm it's not a 40 lb. motor hanging on a 1 1/2" thick top..
Now Cassandra new lift may be a 40 lbs. + and no way to lift that monster out of the top of the router table so she may need some help supporting that much dead weight.
But maintenance must be put into any design , it's just a open motor and in time will fall without of some..TLC..
that makes the job easy with the pop out router, little air and the motor is clean inside the motor case once aging, many have switch errors and that is from router dust filling up the small switch box so the parts inside can't move inside the switch box, they are have a little bit of lube in the switch and that's like a dust magnet, most have a vac. hose right at the router table but most don't use it for the maintenance work that's needed from time to time..
but it's hard to do if the router is bolted in place..