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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 08-24-2010, 12:48 AM Thread Starter
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Default shape suggestions for transitions etc.

Hi all. I'm new to this forum... and to routing... Wife and I just got our first house, and with that is coming first projects. I've done 6 years of carpentry and simple (pre-finished, cut it to length, cope, and nail) base and casing on new and remodels, but no routing or custom trim creations. We'd just stick frame the house up, and come in and trim out with the basics once the other subs were all done. I've done forum searches for first bits and tips like that, and already have found a bunch of great info. This site is an outstanding find!

Here's my first few of probly many questions about routing and woodworking. I'm just now doing hardwood floors (3/4x3.25 hickory), but would love to build a custom mantle and to start making pieces of furniture to fill the house, and maybe sell on the side.

Right now I'd like to make my own flush flooring transitions to carpet in one room and tile in another. Both floor total thicknesses are about 3/4 inch also. What's the standard way to shape that edge so it's not an unfinished 90degrees, or do you just route the tongue off and leave it at 90deg?

I'd also like to do a "picture frame" style, one board width, around the base of the raised brick fire place hearth. What are shape/bit suggestions for this without using quarter round trim piece, or should I just cut the tongue off again?

We have a step down into a sunken living room. To match the main stairs, and add some beef beneath the hardwood stair nosing to glue and nail to, I'd like to install a painted 1x8 slab of poplar as a sort of riser. The "riser" will have open ends that will butt into base trim that continues along the rest of the long wall, and IMO, need to be dressed up somehow. I don't necessarily like the idea of simply mitering back, and was thinking a roundoff of some sort. Is this standard practice? If not, what is? What type of bit? P.S. For dimension purposes- At this point, the 1x will be mounted directly against the joist. The butting base (probly 5/8 thick) will be mounted on the sheetrock, and therefore a half inch further out, unless someone suggests padding the 1x out a half inch...? Any other suggestions on this transition?

For cost and purist reasons I'm considering buying 5/4 x 12 S3S hickory planks and making my own stair treads for the main flight. I will need to bullnose the nosing and returns on those treads, as well as the returns on the step down stair nosing mentioned above. I'd rather stay away from buying a specialized bullnose bit, unless anyone here suggests it could have many uses in the future...? What are my more multi-use bit options? Should I make a table and fence for these, or just a jig guide?

The above-mentioned stair treads will probly need to be fluted on the backside to prevent warping here in Denver, CO. Does this work? What bit and how deep, and how many is correct? The treads will be 10.5 inches deep by 44 inches wide (open ended on left) or so.

Thanks for any input and other tips you may think of on my first novel! Lots to figure out on a very steep learning curve right now!
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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 08-24-2010, 08:22 AM
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I recently made my own transitions, mainly because of a large transition height from one floor to the next. I used brazillian cherry, which matched the cherry plank floor I put down, and is as hard as a rock so it should stand up to the abuse.

To make the height of the transition not look so strange, I went wide with my peice, about 3 inches, and used just a bit of a raised panel bit to sculpt the top and give it a little shape. I then knocked off the corners with a chamfer bit to protect bare feet and prevent splintering on a sharp edge.

I experimented with a couple of different shapes in poplar before cutting the cherry.
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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 08-24-2010, 10:53 AM
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Hi

I would suggest using the bit below, 3/8 " deep on 3" centers and the blind type slot on the router table or your plunge router with the edge guide in place and just stop short from the left side , 3" or so..you don't want to see the slot from the left side..you don't want a real tight fit on the right side you want the air to get under the board...

MLCS core box and round nose router bits

#8717 1/2" 11/32" 1/2" $13.00

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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtnmaniac View Post
Hi all. I'm new to this forum... and to routing... Wife and I just got our first house, and with that is coming first projects. I've done 6 years of carpentry and simple (pre-finished, cut it to length, cope, and nail) base and casing on new and remodels, but no routing or custom trim creations. We'd just stick frame the house up, and come in and trim out with the basics once the other subs were all done. I've done forum searches for first bits and tips like that, and already have found a bunch of great info. This site is an outstanding find!

Here's my first few of probly many questions about routing and woodworking. I'm just now doing hardwood floors (3/4x3.25 hickory), but would love to build a custom mantle and to start making pieces of furniture to fill the house, and maybe sell on the side.

Right now I'd like to make my own flush flooring transitions to carpet in one room and tile in another. Both floor total thicknesses are about 3/4 inch also. What's the standard way to shape that edge so it's not an unfinished 90degrees, or do you just route the tongue off and leave it at 90deg?

I'd also like to do a "picture frame" style, one board width, around the base of the raised brick fire place hearth. What are shape/bit suggestions for this without using quarter round trim piece, or should I just cut the tongue off again?

We have a step down into a sunken living room. To match the main stairs, and add some beef beneath the hardwood stair nosing to glue and nail to, I'd like to install a painted 1x8 slab of poplar as a sort of riser. The "riser" will have open ends that will butt into base trim that continues along the rest of the long wall, and IMO, need to be dressed up somehow. I don't necessarily like the idea of simply mitering back, and was thinking a roundoff of some sort. Is this standard practice? If not, what is? What type of bit? P.S. For dimension purposes- At this point, the 1x will be mounted directly against the joist. The butting base (probly 5/8 thick) will be mounted on the sheetrock, and therefore a half inch further out, unless someone suggests padding the 1x out a half inch...? Any other suggestions on this transition?

For cost and purist reasons I'm considering buying 5/4 x 12 S3S hickory planks and making my own stair treads for the main flight. I will need to bullnose the nosing and returns on those treads, as well as the returns on the step down stair nosing mentioned above. I'd rather stay away from buying a specialized bullnose bit, unless anyone here suggests it could have many uses in the future...? What are my more multi-use bit options? Should I make a table and fence for these, or just a jig guide?

The above-mentioned stair treads will probly need to be fluted on the backside to prevent warping here in Denver, CO. Does this work? What bit and how deep, and how many is correct? The treads will be 10.5 inches deep by 44 inches wide (open ended on left) or so.

Thanks for any input and other tips you may think of on my first novel! Lots to figure out on a very steep learning curve right now!



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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 08-25-2010, 12:17 AM
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