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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 08-24-2010, 09:45 PM Thread Starter
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Question climb cuts

I've got a small piece of oak, about 9 x 9 1/2", shaped like a tombstone. I'm wanting to put a 3-bead profile along the sides and top but am concerned about tearout on the long, 9", crossgrain curve. I was thinking that a series of short climb cuts where I'm going against the grain would help. I'm planning on doing this hand-held as I don't relish climb cuts anyway and table is even less appealing. The bit pictured is the one I am planning on using and I have a template made with an 1/8" offset. I made the template to cut the curve to avoid a pivot hole in the workpiece.
If necessary, I can put a top bearing on that bit to compensate for the template offset.
Any thoughts or is this a plan only General Custer would approve??
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 08-28-2010, 04:52 AM
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Hi John

I noticed that 60 people had viewed this post and no-one had replied. Probably for the same reason that confused me. Why would you want to make a climb cut?
Are you concerned with tear-out along the edge or at the corner?
If it's at the corner then do the cross-grain cut first then the tear-out will disappear when you do the other cuts.
If it's along the edge because of narly grain then I would do it with a table router and really sneak up on the cut, just doing a few mills at a time.
Of course if you are going to use a table router you are going to have to make a new fence with a semicircular cutout. It won't take long, you can use the template you have already made as a guide.

What do you think?
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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 08-28-2010, 09:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jschaben View Post
I've got a small piece of oak, about 9 x 9 1/2", shaped like a tombstone. I'm wanting to put a 3-bead profile along the sides and top but am concerned about tearout on the long, 9", crossgrain curve. I was thinking that a series of short climb cuts where I'm going against the grain would help. I'm planning on doing this hand-held as I don't relish climb cuts anyway and table is even less appealing. The bit pictured is the one I am planning on using and I have a template made with an 1/8" offset. I made the template to cut the curve to avoid a pivot hole in the workpiece.
If necessary, I can put a top bearing on that bit to compensate for the template offset.
Any thoughts or is this a plan only General Custer would approve??
John, once you have the shape routing the beads becomes a job for the table. It must be done in several shallow cuts completing all but around half an inch moving the block from right to left then, for that final cut, holding the block VERY FIRMLY, move it from left to right for the climb cut. Use the fence to guide the block into the cutter
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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 08-28-2010, 11:41 AM Thread Starter
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Hi David and Harry- Thanks for the responses.
Actually about a day late though, I did the job yesterday but it is interesting that I used nearly the same method Harry described. I got the idea from one of Bj's posts in another thread under a different topic.... weird how things work sometimes. Bj's post was a response to someone working with pressure treated and the splintering issues with it. Bj suggested moving in and out of the work on the first pass and going back to clean it up. My reasoning is that tearout is basically spintering at a higher level. I made another, full size template and used the router bit pictured on the table. I routed the straight parts normally but while working in the semi-circle (this is a tombstone looking affair remember), I moved the work in and out of the bit several times around it. None of my excursions into the end grain was very deep nor very long, just enough to worry the away. Took maybe 4 passes to clean it up and didn't do any climb cutting.
David - probably the reason it didn't get many responses is I don't think I had the concern stated very well.

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Last edited by jschaben; 08-28-2010 at 11:44 AM.
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 08-30-2010, 08:19 PM
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If it's along the edge because of narly grain then I would do it with a table router and really sneak up on the cut, just doing a few mills at a time.
Of course if you are going to use a table router you are going to have to make a new fence with a semicircular cutout. It won't take long, you can use the template you have already made as a guide.
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