Angle grinder with a proper ceramic blade does a decent job on most tiles. A metal file can be used to clean up the edges if needed.
Straight cuts are probably best done on something like a Rubi tile cutter
. These won't do heavy quarry tiles for which a heavier cutter is required, or alternatively a tile saw
. I've worked with quite a few tilers and I've rarely seen one resort to power tile saws except on the thickest, heaviest tiles because a manual tile cutter is generally a lot faster, is more portable and doesn't require power. For odd cuts I use either a carbide tile saw
or a carbide blade
in the jigsaw, although the jigsaw tends to be too rough for the thinner porcelain-type wall tiles. Holes I drill with diamond hole cutters
rather than conventional drill bits or spear-point drills, neither of which work all that well on quarry tiles. Bigger cut outs can be drilled and scribed with a carbide scorer
then knocked out and the edges nibbled to the line with a tile nibbler
. Really large circilar cut-outs can be handled with a hole cutter
, although I've never felt the need to buy one. Most of the cut-outs I've done in tiling have been to accommodate electrical switch boxes and the like where rough edges are hidden by the fitting, so absolute appearance isn't critical, but where I need a good finish I've found that a grit edge tile file
works faster and is less likely to damage the glaze than a metalworking file.
Tiling is like woodworking in that it has its' own set of tools. The good thing is that most of them (except for a tile cutter, and Rubi is reckoned to be the the best) are really cheap, so why not invest in the right kit for the job?