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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 01-17-2011, 10:54 PM Thread Starter
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Default Cutting Tiles

I am looking at cutting tiles and was wondering if I can cut tiles with a router on a router table and the right type of bit. Since it is versatile - I normally use an angle grinder.
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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 01-17-2011, 11:01 PM Thread Starter
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I am looking at cutting tiles and was wondering if I can cut tiles with a router on a router table and the right type of bit. Since it is versatile - I normally use an angle grinder.
Let me elaborate a little bit more. Use the angle grinder for the 1st cut and then use the router for the precision.
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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 01-18-2011, 03:23 AM
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Routers and tiles generally aren't 2 things that go together. Having said that, I once mounted a carbide tipped straight bit in my drill and used it to enlarge a hole in a tile once. It worked, but not very well.
I don't think it's a good idea to be breathing in the ceramic dust the router will produce, and standard bits won't last long.

Angle grinder with a proper ceramic blade does a decent job on most tiles. A metal file can be used to clean up the edges if needed.

Last edited by gav; 01-18-2011 at 07:07 AM.
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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 01-18-2011, 06:50 AM
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Angle grinder with a proper ceramic blade does a decent job on most tiles. A metal file can be used to clean up the edges if needed.
Straight cuts are probably best done on something like a Rubi tile cutter. These won't do heavy quarry tiles for which a heavier cutter is required, or alternatively a tile saw. I've worked with quite a few tilers and I've rarely seen one resort to power tile saws except on the thickest, heaviest tiles because a manual tile cutter is generally a lot faster, is more portable and doesn't require power. For odd cuts I use either a carbide tile saw or a carbide blade in the jigsaw, although the jigsaw tends to be too rough for the thinner porcelain-type wall tiles. Holes I drill with diamond hole cutters rather than conventional drill bits or spear-point drills, neither of which work all that well on quarry tiles. Bigger cut outs can be drilled and scribed with a carbide scorer then knocked out and the edges nibbled to the line with a tile nibbler. Really large circilar cut-outs can be handled with a hole cutter, although I've never felt the need to buy one. Most of the cut-outs I've done in tiling have been to accommodate electrical switch boxes and the like where rough edges are hidden by the fitting, so absolute appearance isn't critical, but where I need a good finish I've found that a grit edge tile file works faster and is less likely to damage the glaze than a metalworking file.

Tiling is like woodworking in that it has its' own set of tools. The good thing is that most of them (except for a tile cutter, and Rubi is reckoned to be the the best) are really cheap, so why not invest in the right kit for the job?

Last edited by Phil P; 01-18-2011 at 07:01 AM.
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