Need to rout a rebate on a small frame - table or hand-held? - Router Forums
 
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 02-07-2011, 05:38 AM Thread Starter
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Question Need to rout a rebate on a small frame - table or hand-held?

Hi there

I'm making a bunch of frames (100m x 150mm x 20mm) and I need to rout a rebate on both sides to accommodate 3.2mm pegboard.

I don't see how I can secure this to rout hand-held so is my only option on the table? I think I would need to remove the fence and essentially rout free-hand.

Would a rebate bit with a 10mm rebate do the job?

I don't see how I could rout before assembly without a complicated stop system or is this rather the safer way to go. Remember the smallest piece will be 100mm long x 20mm thick.

What's the verdict on using a lock mitre bit to effectively make this frame? I need to get the frames together by Thursday and I only have two evenings left.

I know, I know but any pointers would be hugely appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

Last edited by cagenuts; 02-07-2011 at 05:59 AM.
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 02-07-2011, 08:15 AM
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I would do this on the router table. You can use the fence for this project.

Don't bother with a lock mitre bit, you can use a rabbet joint, just flip your stiles over and run the same rabbet on them and they will interlock with the rabbet you've put on the rails.

If you want a miter joint on the corners, you can glue up your frames with the miters first, then rout out the rabbet on the inside using a bearing piloted rabbet bit, just remember you'll either have to square the corners on the inside of the frame, or round the corners on the pegboard.

Hope this helps,

Doug
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 02-07-2011, 09:02 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Doug.

I was going to use the lock mitre bit to actually mitre the corners (trying to find a quick way of making them).

However if I were to rebate first, then cut at 45, then glue up, I wouldn't need to hack either the corners nor the pegboard right?

Thanks again.
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 02-07-2011, 09:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cagenuts View Post
Thanks Doug.

I was going to use the lock mitre bit to actually mitre the corners (trying to find a quick way of making them).

However if I were to rebate first, then cut at 45, then glue up, I wouldn't need to hack either the corners nor the pegboard right?

Thanks again.
Hi Hilton - Lock mitre bit isn't a good one to try to do the type of frames you are doing. When I do picture frames I put the rebate and profile(s) on the long stock then cut the miters. I reinforce the mitres with biscuits or splines which may be either hidden or displayed.
One reason a lock miter doesn't work well is all the joints are end grain.

John Schaben

The problem with experience is I usually get it immediately after I need it.
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 02-08-2011, 08:45 PM
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If you are going to miter the corners I would cut the rebates first probably on a table saw....
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 02-08-2011, 10:29 PM
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Originally Posted by cagenuts View Post
Thanks Doug.


However if I were to rebate first, then cut at 45, then glue up, I wouldn't need to hack either the corners nor the pegboard right?

Thanks again.
That's correct!

Good luck with your project!

Doug
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