I would also be interested in plans for windows if anyone has any advice on how to obtain them. Thanks and regards, Prem
Hi Prem and welcome!
How often have I seen that written about stairs, windows and doors? As a working joiner I'd have to say that such things don't exist - or if they do they are of extremely limited use because every
door, window or staircase is different, made for it's own unique location. To build stuiff like this you need to select a style of window, then familiarise yourself with the construction techniques and cross sections of the timbers you're going to use. Most modern manufactured
windows are assembled using a form of multiple finger joints (because they are made using spindle moulders with complex tooling or even in CNC window centres, a development of the spindle moulder) so you will need to find an alternative such as conventional mortise and tenon or loose tenon, such as the Domino, or even multiple dowels. Once you have the cross sections of the various timbers a full-size cross sections (vertical and horizontal) are drawn on a piece of sheet material (3mm MDF, 1/8in plywood, hardboard, etc) to form what we refer to as a "rod" (story pole in US parlance?) and all dimensions are then stepped directly off that onto the timbers. Not much help to a beginner, I know, but that is the process
I'm thinking about something like this (two different windows):
Those profiles could be worked with a fairly basic set of cutters, BUT, the rebate sections in windows are very often far too large to take easily with a router. One solution I've used in the past is to buy-in standard profiles from timber merchants (many European firms sell these) for sill, head, stiles, casement and glazing beads which then leaves only the joints and any routing for weather stripping to be undertaken. Large section rebated components can be built-up from smaller profile pieces by gluing together, although any exterior work will require a fully weatherproof glue such as a urea formaldehyde glue and all such joints will need to be properly clamped to achieve the required weatherproof qualities.
Typical cutters required for a side-hung casement window include: Sash bar
and sash scribe
to make the male and female sections of the profiles. These can also be used to manufacture glazing retaining beads Water channel
to make drip grooves, etc
Weather seals come in a huge variety of sizes and shapes
and the cutter must match the style of weather seal you choose
If your chosen style of window requires capillary draining then these capillary groove
cutters are useful
Note that casments are often 35 to 55mm thick (front to back) when using double/triple sealed glazing units and that the main window frame is therefore going to be something like 55 to 85mm thick x 40mm or more deep, much more if the style requires a built-in wooden sill