Refridgerator cubby work - Router Forums
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-04-2011, 05:46 PM Thread Starter
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Default Refridgerator cubby work

I'm moving into a new place this weekend, and the fridge won't fit into the "cubby" between the cabinets because the top cabinet trim edge hangs just a bit too low. There is about 3/4" difference between the bottom of the shelf in the top cabinet and the bottom of edge of the bottom strip running left to right that trims the top cabinet out (hope that makes sense...). With the strip out the fridge will just slide in underneath the shelf

I don't want to take that strip off since its nailed on a few edges, and I'd prob ruin it -- but I thought that with the right bit that I could use my router to remove the overhang on the bezel strip and make it flush with the bottom of the shelf.

I'm hoping someone with more experience than I have can confirm that this is a good direction, and if so to suggest a bit that would not splinter the bezel/trim wood while cutting it flush.

happy to shoot a photo if my gyrations above are nonsensical

many thanks in advance
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-04-2011, 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by sonoramike View Post
I'm moving into a new place this weekend, and the fridge won't fit into the "cubby" between the cabinets because the top cabinet trim edge hangs just a bit too low. There is about 3/4" difference between the bottom of the shelf in the top cabinet and the bottom of edge of the bottom strip running left to right that trims the top cabinet out (hope that makes sense...). With the strip out the fridge will just slide in underneath the shelf

I don't want to take that strip off since its nailed on a few edges, and I'd prob ruin it -- but I thought that with the right bit that I could use my router to remove the overhang on the bezel strip and make it flush with the bottom of the shelf.

I'm hoping someone with more experience than I have can confirm that this is a good direction, and if so to suggest a bit that would not splinter the bezel/trim wood while cutting it flush.

happy to shoot a photo if my gyrations above are nonsensical

many thanks in advance
Hi Mike - I think I understand what you're saying but a pic to verify would make sure.
I think it could be done easily enough with a flush trim bit but 3/4" is a pretty big bite. I would be inclined to rough it out with a jig saw and finish with the router. Access to a Fein MultiMaster or one of the clones would also be an option although I believe the router would yield a better finish cut. Just make sure there aren't any nails in the path of the router.
Hope this helps

John Schaben

The problem with experience is I usually get it immediately after I need it.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-04-2011, 07:45 PM
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Mike,
I have done what you're inquiring about many times and John is spot on with his advice. If you don't have access to a multi tool, a fine handsaw and sharp chisel will get the job done.
Make sure you don't cut the cabinet higher than the lower edge of the door.

Tim

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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-04-2011, 08:03 PM Thread Starter
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no Multi in possession, and no nails in the cut path. the door would sit about 1/8" above the final height iirc

off to the new house now, will try to get a photo or 2

appreciate the feedback, more soon
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-04-2011, 08:08 PM
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Hi Mike

That's a router job, just chuck up a good trim bit, buzz off the part and than chuck a 3/8" round over bit to give a nice edge..
Be sure to start on your left and move to your right with the router..
The trim bit will do all the work.

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Last edited by bobj3; 03-04-2011 at 08:10 PM.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-04-2011, 11:46 PM Thread Starter
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yiee, ginormus size, sorry
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-05-2011, 11:14 AM
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If you haven't done so already.

Check the rails/stiles for pocket holes/screws on the inside of the face frame. Also check for binding screws at the adjacent cabinet face frames. Hard bodied screws are rough on bits.

If there is a concern about hogging too much per pass with the trimmer you can swap out the bearing to larger and work you way down to flush. Or you can carpet-tape "guide strips" of varying thickness to the bottom of the cabinet 'til flush.

Needless to say, protect the adjacent cabs from errant snipes with strips and tape or whatever.

Bob's roundover profile is a good idea but also consider the cabinet finish and your ability to duplicate it or if the fridge will hide the new raw edge vs how deep a finish cut you'll want to make on any sight line.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-05-2011, 12:01 PM
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Hi Mike

Don't forget you can match the cabinet with marking pens from the craft store or the big box stores sometimes with a little blue masking tape and some satin spray in the can it will look good, I think I would back off from the round over bit and just use a Chamfer bit to match the cabinet..
BUT you may not want to use a router bit on the edge, it's looks like it will be right at the bottom of the door so maybe a little of light sanding to clean it up..

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Last edited by bobj3; 03-05-2011 at 01:16 PM.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-05-2011, 12:42 PM
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Hi Mike.
Doesn't look like to hard of a job. Just trim it off with a full size router as suggested. I would hit the edge with a 1/8" round over bit after trimming. Looks like that would come closer to the other cabinet edges. It will also be less of an edge to finish to match. I would also suggest using blue painters tape on the surface of the finished side of your cabinet to protect from scratches from the router operation. The tape will not hurt the bit.

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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-05-2011, 03:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoramike View Post
I'm moving into a new place this weekend, and the fridge won't fit into the "cubby" between the cabinets because the top cabinet trim edge hangs just a bit too low. There is about 3/4" difference between the bottom of the shelf in the top cabinet and the bottom of edge of the bottom strip running left to right that trims the top cabinet out (hope that makes sense...). With the strip out the fridge will just slide in underneath the shelf

I don't want to take that strip off since its nailed on a few edges, and I'd prob ruin it -- but I thought that with the right bit that I could use my router to remove the overhang on the bezel strip and make it flush with the bottom of the shelf.

I'm hoping someone with more experience than I have can confirm that this is a good direction, and if so to suggest a bit that would not splinter the bezel/trim wood while cutting it flush.

happy to shoot a photo if my gyrations above are nonsensical

many thanks in advance
Hi Mike

If you need to make your strip even with the bottom of the shelf you may have a problem. The piece you are about to route generally supports the shelf. Check first before routing.

Al
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