Cam questions - Router Forums
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-16-2011, 08:20 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Marco's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Country: United States
First Name: Jim
Posts: 1,239
 
Default Cam questions

Ok A few questions to clear my mind about cams in the cam board.

1) Your Cams are made out of large Oak Dowels?

2) 1" round or larger?

3) How thick are the cams 1/2"?

4) Machine bolts with allen heads?

5) Holes, 2 that are off center and counter sunk?

6) With the holes off center it creates pressure into the material when tightening the bolt?

7) 1 cam on each side of the material will hold it down?

8) The cam board has squared straight boards on each side for the ski handle to run against?

Galatians 5:13
Marco is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-17-2011, 12:55 AM
Retired Moderator
 
Mike's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Country: United States
First Name: Mike
Posts: 11,921
 
Send a message via Skype™ to Mike
Default

Marco, there is no right or wrong sizes for the cams. The cams should be a bit shorter than the material you are working with. Most people use wood screws to attach the cams, I would suggest square drive screws. (Robertson for our Canadian members) Keep in mind there is no one size of cam board that will handle all jobs. You will often need to build a new box to fit your project. The cams are for holding in position, not holding down. Ski jigs are usually wider than the cam board so you can rout with out interference.

Mike
"Living in the D" (this means Detroit!)
"It's fine to disagree with other members as long as you respect their opinions"
Mike is offline  
post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-17-2011, 09:21 AM
RouterForums.com User
 
harrysin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Country: Australia
First Name: Harry
Posts: 14,812
     
Send a message via Skype™ to harrysin
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Marco View Post
Ok A few questions to clear my mind about cams in the cam board.

1) Your Cams are made out of large Oak Dowels?

2) 1" round or larger?

3) How thick are the cams 1/2"?

4) Machine bolts with allen heads?

5) Holes, 2 that are off center and counter sunk?

6) With the holes off center it creates pressure into the material when tightening the bolt?

7) 1 cam on each side of the material will hold it down?

8) The cam board has squared straight boards on each side for the ski handle to run against?
1) Any hardwood

2) 1 1/4" is better

3) 1/2" to 3/4" is fine

4) I use machine screws with countersunk heads into T nuts

5) One hole only required

6) Not really, twist the cam whilst tightening the screw

7) Eight cams are required to ensure zero movement of the work-piece

8) Running the skis against the camboard is only really for slots and grooves.

These photographs taken from several previous projects give an idea of how I secure the workpiece and use the skis.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	holding-template2.jpg
Views:	57
Size:	36.5 KB
ID:	43972  

Click image for larger version

Name:	2nd-coin-tray19.jpg
Views:	60
Size:	46.2 KB
ID:	43973  

Click image for larger version

Name:	cam-jig-holder1.jpg
Views:	58
Size:	51.9 KB
ID:	43974  

Click image for larger version

Name:	Jigs-etc4.jpg
Views:	67
Size:	36.7 KB
ID:	43975  

Click image for larger version

Name:	lighted-base3.jpg
Views:	57
Size:	37.9 KB
ID:	43976  

Click image for larger version

Name:	Explaining-jig4.jpg
Views:	59
Size:	27.2 KB
ID:	43977  

Click image for larger version

Name:	making-skis8.jpg
Views:	62
Size:	58.1 KB
ID:	43978  


Harry



Nothing but heaven itself is better than a friend who is really a friend. - Plautus






harrysin is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-17-2011, 02:00 PM
Forum Contributor
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Country: United States
First Name: John
Posts: 3,046
 
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Marco View Post
Ok A few questions to clear my mind about cams in the cam board.

1) Your Cams are made out of large Oak Dowels?

2) 1" round or larger?

3) How thick are the cams 1/2"?

4) Machine bolts with allen heads?

5) Holes, 2 that are off center and counter sunk?

6) With the holes off center it creates pressure into the material when tightening the bolt?

7) 1 cam on each side of the material will hold it down?

8) The cam board has squared straight boards on each side for the ski handle to run against?
Hi Jim, Here's a picture of my last one. 2 1/2" between the holes and 2-3/8" cams, although I will likely make some more cams in different sizes. Base is 3/4" furniture grade (at least Home Depots idea of furniture grade) plywood and the cams are 1/2" plywood. This one uses 10-24 combination head (phillips + straight drive). Button head cap screws are expensive for me as I have to mail order them. They really don't need torqued down all that tight anyway.
Point is, no need to overthink the thing, just need to hold the workpiece firmly without it getting in the way.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	P1030945.jpg
Views:	69
Size:	238.9 KB
ID:	43985  


John Schaben

The problem with experience is I usually get it immediately after I need it.
jschaben is offline  
post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-17-2011, 04:13 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Marco's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Country: United States
First Name: Jim
Posts: 1,239
 
Default

Thanks to all for the input and answers. Trying to get all the info by the sites "Search Button" has been time consuming and a little frustrating. Good Lord willing, I should have a board or two working for me in no time as I have all the pieces to my self made Cam Board puzzle.

John you are absolutely right in observing my bad habit of "over thinking" it when there is no need,

Galatians 5:13
Marco is offline  
post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-18-2011, 07:26 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Marco's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Country: United States
First Name: Jim
Posts: 1,239
 
Default

Well finally got my Cam Board up and running and ran through a learning curve in the process.

Image 1 is of the Cam Board itself. 3/4 MDF with T-tracks

Image 2 is the cams. 3" round 1/2" inch plywood with 1/4"- 20 anchor bolts shortened. The top of the cam is countersunk 3/4" wide at the bolt opening so a nut driver or socket can access the nut.

I had the MDF and the t-track bit and the 3"round 1/2" Plywood and anchor bolts were headed for the dumpster at work so a FREE Cam Board is the reason for the differences in material. I did buy some t-track nuts and used them but didn't like them because when tightening them down after a few times, the bolt would eventually sink to the bottom of the t-track causing it to stick.

What I learned about using the router as a planer with the help of a Cam Board to hold the material in place.

1) Look at the wood first for cupping etc. and work at flattening one side then flip it. A cupped board can and will give at the corners causing to gouge the wood.

2) Just take a little bit at a time off! Give yourself plenty of time to do it as setting everything up and doing it right is going to eat up the minutes.

3) Plane your wood down before cutting it into pieces needed for your project. Thinning each piece seperately is time consuming, and more difficult to get the same thickness.

4) Clamping 2 pieces side by side with cams is not a good idea as they want to pop up where they join

5) Using a plunge router makes it easier to get your final thickness

6) You need to have your Router Ski Handles cut to accomodate the handles on your router


After lessons learned I was able to get the thickness I wanted and smoothed it all out with a belt sander in picture 3

Thanks to all for making posts over the years about cam boards and router skis as it took a lot of "Searching", reading and asking of questions on this site to get the information needed to get both completed
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1152.jpg
Views:	74
Size:	476.9 KB
ID:	44002  

Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1153.jpg
Views:	76
Size:	275.4 KB
ID:	44003  

Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1159.jpg
Views:	64
Size:	188.9 KB
ID:	44004  


Galatians 5:13
Marco is offline  
post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-18-2011, 08:03 PM
Forum Contributor
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Country: United States
First Name: John
Posts: 3,046
 
Default

Looks good Jim!
Hadn't thought of using t-tracks but I can see some advantages in being able to relocate the cams quickly. MDF will likely wear out on you after awhile but like you said, price was right.

John Schaben

The problem with experience is I usually get it immediately after I need it.
jschaben is offline  
post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-18-2011, 09:54 PM
Forum Contributor
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Country: United States
First Name: Bj
Posts: 23,786
       
Default

Hi JIm

Nice job,,I will say cams are not always the best way, wedges work very well to hold the wood in place and with a pin nail or two sticking out of the wedge it will keep the stock from moving up or down..



==============


========
Quote:
Originally Posted by Marco View Post
Well finally got my Cam Board up and running and ran through a learning curve in the process.

Image 1 is of the Cam Board itself. 3/4 MDF with T-tracks

Image 2 is the cams. 3" round 1/2" inch plywood with 1/4"- 20 anchor bolts shortened. The top of the cam is countersunk 3/4" wide at the bolt opening so a nut driver or socket can access the nut.

I had the MDF and the t-track bit and the 3"round 1/2" Plywood and anchor bolts were headed for the dumpster at work so a FREE Cam Board is the reason for the differences in material. I did buy some t-track nuts and used them but didn't like them because when tightening them down after a few times, the bolt would eventually sink to the bottom of the t-track causing it to stick.

What I learned about using the router as a planer with the help of a Cam Board to hold the material in place.

1) Look at the wood first for cupping etc. and work at flattening one side then flip it. A cupped board can and will give at the corners causing to gouge the wood.

2) Just take a little bit at a time off! Give yourself plenty of time to do it as setting everything up and doing it right is going to eat up the minutes.

3) Plane your wood down before cutting it into pieces needed for your project. Thinning each piece seperately is time consuming, and more difficult to get the same thickness.

4) Clamping 2 pieces side by side with cams is not a good idea as they want to pop up where they join

5) Using a plunge router makes it easier to get your final thickness

6) You need to have your Router Ski Handles cut to accomodate the handles on your router


After lessons learned I was able to get the thickness I wanted and smoothed it all out with a belt sander in picture 3

Thanks to all for making posts over the years about cam boards and router skis as it took a lot of "Searching", reading and asking of questions on this site to get the information needed to get both completed


Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	7133.jpg
Views:	50
Size:	62.2 KB
ID:	44006  

Click image for larger version

Name:	7135.jpg
Views:	45
Size:	57.6 KB
ID:	44007  

Click image for larger version

Name:	7041.jpg
Views:	55
Size:	71.7 KB
ID:	44008  

Click image for larger version

Name:	7079.jpg
Views:	53
Size:	87.5 KB
ID:	44009  

Click image for larger version

Name:	1021.jpg
Views:	42
Size:	37.8 KB
ID:	44020  

Click image for larger version

Name:	1022.jpg
Views:	44
Size:	38.7 KB
ID:	44021  


"It's fine to disagree with other members as long as you respect their opinions"

Marc Sommerfeld Tools ,Videos
http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT-n...RWaEpMA/videos

Find all threads started by bobj3
http://www.routerforums.com/search.php?searchid=944097



Last edited by bobj3; 05-19-2011 at 07:23 PM.
bobj3 is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Router Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Two cam board issues SE18 General Routing 18 09-22-2013 12:18 AM
Jasper Model 274 Random Noob Questions nwsalmon Jigs and Fixtures 3 03-06-2011 09:00 AM
No questions in this section! Mark Router Reference 0 06-08-2008 12:59 AM
Cam Design Guidelines rstermer Jigs and Fixtures 6 05-27-2008 04:37 PM
Crossword Puzzle with BJ's questions BobandRick Site Help and Suggestions 0 02-01-2007 01:16 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome