Well finally got my Cam Board up and running and ran through a learning curve in the process.
Image 1 is of the Cam Board itself. 3/4 MDF with T-tracks
Image 2 is the cams. 3" round 1/2" inch plywood with 1/4"- 20 anchor bolts shortened. The top of the cam is countersunk 3/4" wide at the bolt opening so a nut driver or socket can access the nut.
I had the MDF and the t-track bit and the 3"round 1/2" Plywood and anchor bolts were headed for the dumpster at work so a FREE Cam Board is the reason for the differences in material. I did buy some t-track nuts and used them but didn't like them because when tightening them down after a few times, the bolt would eventually sink to the bottom of the t-track causing it to stick.
What I learned about using the router as a planer with the help of a Cam Board to hold the material in place.
1) Look at the wood first for cupping etc. and work at flattening one side then flip it. A cupped board can and will give at the corners causing to gouge the wood.
2) Just take a little bit at a time off! Give yourself plenty of time to do it as setting everything up and doing it right is going to eat up the minutes.
3) Plane your wood down before cutting it into pieces needed for your project. Thinning each piece seperately is time consuming, and more difficult to get the same thickness.
4) Clamping 2 pieces side by side with cams is not a good idea as they want to pop up where they join
5) Using a plunge router makes it easier to get your final thickness
6) You need to have your Router Ski Handles cut to accomodate the handles on your router
After lessons learned I was able to get the thickness I wanted and smoothed it all out with a belt sander in picture 3
Thanks to all for making posts over the years about cam boards and router skis as it took a lot of "Searching", reading and asking of questions on this site to get the information needed to get both completed
ďItís not a mistake, itís a design featureĒ