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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 06-19-2011, 11:00 AM Thread Starter
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Default Overkill?

I will be installing 7/16" OSB on my ceiling and am thinking about rabitting the edges the same way that they do on siding. This way I can overlap the sheets (10 x 15 for a total of 5 sheets) and have (hopefully) invisible seams and very little caulking before painting. Any thoughts?
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 06-19-2011, 11:11 AM
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Two questions. Is OSB actually smooth enough for the purpose? I'm used to using it as a walling material beneath something else such as plasterboard (sheetrock) rather than showing. Secondly have you considered the effect of shortening a board by the depth of the rebate? If your rebate is say 1/2in wide then you'll be shortening your boards by that length/width in effect (where the overlap is), but if your ceiling joists are standard they'll be on something like 16in centres to work with 8ft boards and not 7ft 11-1/2in boards. so the ends of your boards will run out over a distance. Of course if you've not installed any joists yet it makes no difference at all

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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 06-19-2011, 11:19 AM
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OSB, in my experience, doesn't take too well to that kind of tooling. If you are using 1/2" that will result in 1/4" tabs. They'll break easily. I believe that you can buy OSB that's tongue and grooved already.
Additionally, water based paint will cause the strands to separate. I've had SOME luck priming with Kilz before painting with latex.
I used 1/4" pre painted hard board on my ceiling. The paint(? maybe some sort of plastic sprayed on) is slick and shiny, which really helps with lighting.
If I were to do it again, I'd use 1/2" tongue and grooved ply wood and paint it with a high gloss enamel.

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Last edited by Gene Howe; 06-19-2011 at 11:21 AM.
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 06-19-2011, 12:25 PM
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Fred, I think you would be better off using drywall. Here are my reasons why: It is cheaper, it muffles sound, it reflects light and a quick and easy tape job makes it easy to finish.

Mike
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 06-20-2011, 09:23 AM
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The World's best workmanship cannot cover-up poor materials and have a practical expense...Oriented Strand Board is no good for the application as you've described it. In 2004, I installed a very nice ceiling in part of my basement; and here is how I did it:
There were joists overhead (2x10), so below and perpendicular to the joists I installed 1x4's at approximately 16" on center. For this attachment I used square drive screws and allowed the flat heads to simply penetrate into the 1x4's enough to be flush with their faces. Then I installed No 1 clean pine 1x's in random widths (1x4, 1x6, 1x8 & 1x10's). Each of my visible 1x's were simply run through my table saw to bevel the two visible edges. Again I used square drive screws, and this time I used washer head screws and left the heads visible. I have a lot of traffic at my home and almost everyone compliments the ceiling treatment! I considered many types of methods / materials, but chose this because it allows me to drop-down boards when I need to route wiring above the ceiling. Afterward, the dropped boards fit right back where they came from and never gets noticed. The beveled edges give the appearance that T&G boards were used. OPG3 P.S. I went to Woodcraft and bought one of those "3rd hand" extension poles and was able to complete the job with no help. The "3rd hand" was about $30-$40, if memory serves me correctly.
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 06-20-2011, 07:48 PM Thread Starter
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Default Thanks!

I appreciate all of your responses and will definitely consider the sheetrock as I do want to reduce the noise so I can work early (I get up at 5am out here in the country) and late (after 6pm) and not bother anyone in the house.
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