routing worktop edge and laminating - Router Forums
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 07-01-2011, 04:06 AM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Country: United Kingdom
First Name: Gareth
Posts: 36
 
Default routing worktop edge and laminating

Looking for some advice: We have 2 worktops, one 40mm thick, the other 32mm. We want to create the effect in the pic below, I have the just bought a 25.4mm ovolo cutter for the top profile and a 19.1mm radius cutter for the bottom.

I intend to route the top worktop (32mm) with the ololo first and the the bottom worktop (40mm) with the radius, then laminate the two together.

I don't think it is wise to laminate the full worktop as I am concerned there maybe movement, I was thinking of just cutting strips for the bottom and fixing these to the top.

I was thinking of using titebond III for laminating the tops, we also have a Belfast sink being installed so water would be running over the join.

Any suggestions of a more suitable method of achieving this?
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	worktop.jpg
Views:	122
Size:	32.2 KB
ID:	44659  

GarethHarvey is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 07-02-2011, 07:42 AM
Registered User
 
dutchman 46's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Country: United States
First Name: Howard
Posts: 2,825
 
Default

My opinion, do the full lamination! The reason, there can get moisture inside and cause the top to have high spots , the table will become unstable if You spot laminate. Make sure that a thin strip of wood is attached to the outside with glue and, if You want a nice edge on the table, put it on that glued on strip!

John 3:16

Please fill out your profile, It helps us to know you better
dutchman 46 is offline  
post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 07-02-2011, 10:00 AM
Registered User
 
Phil P's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Country: United Kingdom
First Name: Phil
Posts: 2,117
 
Default

Hi Gareth

I've pondered this one. For starters I wouldn't use Titebond in a kitchen worktop joint - it might well be a weatherproof aliphatic (effectively a variation on the exterior grade PVA we see here) but it isn't completely waterproof. For that you need to go to either a UF (urea formaldehyde, plastic resin) glue such as Cascamite/Polymite or to an epoxy such as West System. Both will create joints which are absolutely watertight, which is surely what you need in a kitchen. An alternative might be PU (polyurethane) glue, such as Gorilla Glue, although great care is needed to avoid any foaming out from potentially damaging the surfaces around the joints.

On the subject of getting the dropped apron I am in favour of adding a "skirt". It would be better IMHO if a full height skirt could be added to the front face, but as that rerquires the use of a very tall cutter block on a spindle moulder it's maybe not a feasible option here. so, were I you I'd rout the lower skirt section and rip down into lengths which can be loose tenoned or biscuit jointed onto the underside of the worktop after it has been roughly positioned but not fixed. You'll need a fair few cramps to make a nice tight joint.

BTW have you thought about what strategy you are going to adopt for dealing with corners? Deep mouldings like these often need radiused edges (sharp corners can be dangerous) so you'll possibly need to make up a radius template for the corners, too

Regards

Phil
Phil P is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 07-04-2011, 04:19 AM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Country: United Kingdom
First Name: Gareth
Posts: 36
 
Default

many thanks, I have also pondered this for a long time. The plan looks like:

Route the edge of the worktop with the Ovolo bit.

Cut strips (under skirt) and route, these could probably be done in a table mounter router.

Fix skirt to bottom of worktop with Cascamite glue.

The skirt could be fixed in sections rather than in one complete skirt. This would help with glueing and clamping. I had thought about the sharp corners, I have a small radius edge to overcome this.

Thanks for your help.
GarethHarvey is offline  
post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 07-04-2011, 07:37 AM
Registered User
 
paduke's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Country: United States
First Name: Bill
Posts: 1,184
 
Default

Garth

Post some step by step pics so we can follow you and good luck I love the look you are striving for.
paduke is offline  
post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 07-11-2011, 03:14 AM
Registered User
 
paduke's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Country: United States
First Name: Bill
Posts: 1,184
 
Default

The photo shows an edge applied to a butcher block top the crisp corners are from mitered or coped edging. The router top look will be gentler in the corners
paduke is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Router Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome