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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-13-2011, 06:11 AM Thread Starter
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Default advice please

i'm constucting a very large balcony(90m) using (4.5mt) 150x150 posts with (3mts)130x100 floor joists, the first floor will be 500mm wider than ground floor to give that old style look,

i would like to take the 4 edges of the posts & the bottom 2 edges of the floor joists off at 45 chamfer but stop the 45 around 60/80mm before the post & joist meet , i don't want to have a rounded end as i think a nice crisp 45 would look better .
i have a CMT (orange tool) C936.420.11 cutter.

don't realy want to use the router table and keep lifting the wood as i'm doing all this on my own and i'm on my last legs after cutting the trees down from my forest for this job.

any tips would be helpfull
Thanks midlife
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-13-2011, 06:17 AM Thread Starter
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sorry forgot to ask , mallet & chisel OR router & jig
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-13-2011, 07:27 AM
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sorry forgot to ask , mallet & chisel OR router & jig
Hi Anthony - Welcome to the forum
I'm not terribly fluent in metric, I have no idea what 4.5 mt is. I believe the jist of it is that these boards are large.
That being the case, I agree that the router table is not a good option.
Would a guide for a circular saw work for you? Would just need to be a piece of angled scrap the width of the board you want to bevel that could be clamped to the stock and guide the saw plate.

John Schaben

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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-13-2011, 08:29 AM
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Anthony,

I would use a router "hand held" with an edge guide and a 45 deg chamfering bit. A clamped on piece of wood could be used as a stop to limit the router travel. The chamfering bit likely will have a guide bearing on it, and this will be great for the final pass, but use the edge guide and not the bearing to make at least one light pass at each cut to prevent chip out. Then remove the edge guide and use the bearing to guide the router for the final pass.

If you have cut the wood from the trees yourself, have you dried the wood properly? Wood with more than about 8% moisture content will not remain straight and you will be wasting your time trying to use it until it is dry as it will warp and twist significantly while drying. Make sure it is dry before you try to make anything from it.

I've spent some time in your country, mostly in the Blansco, Adamov, and the Moravian forest areas. It is a beautiful place, and I would love to go back.

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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-13-2011, 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Midlife View Post
i'm constucting a very large balcony(90m) using (4.5mt) 150x150 posts with (3mts)130x100 floor joists, the first floor will be 500mm wider than ground floor to give that old style look,

i would like to take the 4 edges of the posts & the bottom 2 edges of the floor joists off at 45 chamfer but stop the 45 around 60/80mm before the post & joist meet , i don't want to have a rounded end as i think a nice crisp 45 would look better .
i have a CMT (orange tool) C936.420.11 cutter.

don't realy want to use the router table and keep lifting the wood as i'm doing all this on my own and i'm on my last legs after cutting the trees down from my forest for this job.

any tips would be helpfull
Thanks midlife

Hi Anthony

is that a 90m balcony or 90m2?

90m seems rather long?

i would also use a 45 degree chamfer bit as suggested by Charley

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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-13-2011, 12:28 PM Thread Starter
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thanks for the advice all, 90 meters long not m2 , the house is 35mts long x 10mts wide and the balcony is going all round, i have the 45 bit with bearing and i cut the trees nearly 4years ago.
Thanks all midlife
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-13-2011, 12:30 PM Thread Starter
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Charley we are 35klms east of plzen , drop in next time..
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-13-2011, 05:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Midlife View Post
i'm constucting a very large balcony(90m) using (4.5mt) 150x150 posts with (3mts)130x100 floor joists, the first floor will be 500mm wider than ground floor to give that old style look,

i would like to take the 4 edges of the posts & the bottom 2 edges of the floor joists off at 45 chamfer but stop the 45 around 60/80mm before the post & joist meet , i don't want to have a rounded end as i think a nice crisp 45 would look better .
i have a CMT (orange tool) C936.420.11 cutter.

don't realy want to use the router table and keep lifting the wood as i'm doing all this on my own and i'm on my last legs after cutting the trees down from my forest for this job.

any tips would be helpfull
Thanks midlife
Couldn't find a 936... only 836... All had a guide bearing so shouldn't be a problem. I would take a couple of sawhorses and add two uprights on each one with just enough spacing between them to hold your boards on edge. They should be easy to rout that way. The router will give you the best job. Come to think of it, you are doing a 45 so it doesn't matter which side you work from. Just lay them flat on the sawhorses.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.

Last edited by Cherryville Chuck; 08-13-2011 at 05:18 PM.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-13-2011, 11:33 PM
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thanks for the advice all, 90 meters long not m2 , the house is 35mts long x 10mts wide and the balcony is going all round, i have the 45 bit with bearing and i cut the trees nearly 4years ago.
Thanks all midlife
Hi Anthony,

It looks like you have a big task in front of you.

Would you be able to post some photos as you make progress?

James
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-15-2011, 01:12 PM Thread Starter
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i will take some photos but it will be some time as i am waiting for some friends to come over from the uk to help lift the big stuff.

i don't think i made myself clear in what i need advice on, the main thing for me is there a better/easy way in which to get the ends of the 45chamfer looking hand cut as the 45 bit will leave a rounded end as they don't go to the end of the wood ?
thanks again all
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