Bosch 1617 collet problems - Router Forums
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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-06-2011, 02:54 PM Thread Starter
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Default Bosch 1617 collet problems

My Bosch 1617 evs is faily new (less than 40 hours use), and I'm having problem with the bit slipping down and ruining the workpiece. I have been trying to rout dovetails in maple using a Jet jig. The first set of dovetails worked perfectly (with some cleanup), but then the bit started slipping down. I've tried cleaning the collet following instructions in an article from Fine Woodworking, and then bought a new collet, with the same results after just a few passes. Straight bits seem to work fine (routing mortices), but the dovetail bits slip down after just a few passes.
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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-06-2011, 04:03 PM
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Many members have that router although I am not one of them. Are you bottoming the bit into the router when you chuck them? If you are, leave a small gap under it. A hot router bit stretches, which can loosen the grip the collet has on it.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-06-2011, 11:10 PM
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Richard, I own a couple of 1617's and have never had a problem with them. First thing to check is the diameter of the dovetail bit. Since other bits work fine my guess is you have an undersized bit. This is not common but it does happen. Measure the bit with a micrometer and compare it to your other bits. What brand of dovetail bit are you using?
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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-08-2011, 12:05 PM
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I own a 1617 and have had this happen with one bit. I believe it was the bit being very slightly undersized and the nature of the bit is to want to pull up. (Spiral bit) I discovered (after having a bit snap) that I was taking too deep of cuts with that bit. I ended up making smaller cuts with it, which solved the problems I was having with that bit.

I think in your case though, the bit shank is undersized. I would try a different bit.
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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-08-2011, 01:01 PM
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Something I was taught many years ago....

Go to town and by an assorted pile of cheap 1/4 and 1/2" o rings.

Slip the o-ring over the shank all the way up to the flange. That way you can't push the bit into the collet up onto the curved flange.
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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-09-2011, 10:04 AM
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I have owned a 1617evs for several years and have not had the same experience. I would agree with others who have suggested that the bit is either bottomed out prior to tightening or poor quality control by the bit manufacturer.
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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-10-2011, 12:35 AM Thread Starter
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I've was using a CMT high price bit.
I've bought a new collet and am gowing to try again.
Have ordered collet brushes from Woodhaven, and will try using Scotch Brite pad on the router bit shaft before using. Thanks for the info as to bit expansion resulting from heat - everyone says to leave 1/8 above bottom but no one has ever mentioned why - thanks again.
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post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-10-2011, 12:41 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmanrique View Post
I've was using a CMT high price bit.
I've bought a new collet and am going to try again.
Have ordered collet brushes from Woodhaven, and will try using Scotch Brite pad on the router bit shaft before using. Thanks for the info as to bit expansion resulting from heat - everyone says to leave 1/8 above bottom but no one has ever mentioned why - thanks again.
Also, I may have damaged the collet by overtightening. Can anyone comment on this? I read this on several sites, but it's a normal response when bits start slipping and you're ruining good wood. Should squeezing the two wrenches together with one hand be enough - as suggested on one site that the resulting coefficient of friction between the collet and bit will be enough to keep the bit in place. I've read of Porter Cable owners complain of slipping bits and saying that you have to have Schwartzenegger arms to tighten them.
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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-10-2011, 12:52 AM
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Richard, when the collet nut is tightened it forces the collet into the shaft which causes it to tighten on the bit. This also causes the bit to move backward into the shaft. If the bit is bottomed out and can't move back the collet nut gets tight but the bit is not gripped properly by the collet. A bit bottomed out can also transfer the heat build up directly to the motor shaft. The 1617 manual requires that the bit be inserted into the collet 3/4"; deeper is better since it helps reduce vibration and deflection. You can insert a 1/8" diameter cord O ring into the shaft, it should be snug enough that it wont fall out. This will allow you to fully insert a bit to the O ring. The O ring will compress when the collet nut is tightened allowing the collet to properly secure the bit.

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Last edited by Mike; 10-10-2011 at 01:01 AM.
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post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old 10-10-2011, 12:56 AM
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One hand pressure is not enough to secure the bit. You don't have to be Godzilla, but the collet nut needs to be tight. I am sure your collet is fine since you have no problems with other bits.

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