Routing edge on plywood - Router Forums
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post #1 of 3 (permalink) Old 10-20-2004, 10:03 AM Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 8
Question Routing edge on plywood


I have been rip cutting a sheet of 3/4" birch plywood with my circular saw. I need this one edge to be straight and true as much as possible but it isint. It has a few waves in it from the circular saw. How can I use my router to true up this one long edge? What type of router bit to use?

Dimitri Guest is offline  
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post #2 of 3 (permalink) Old 10-20-2004, 10:18 AM
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 394

I'm sure there will be other suggestions, but mine is to make either a sawboard or routerboard, which is just a length of 1/4" hardboard that has a strip of material with a known straight edge attached.

Use the circular saw (or a router with the bit you will use to straighten the edge) to trim the excess hardboard after attaching the straight edge piece. The sawboard/routerboard is then clamped to the material and will make straight cuts for you.

Above is my routerboard being used to line up a slot to cut to create a 'toilet-
bolt' clamp track, but using it clamped to the edge of your existing cut would allow you to straighten it out.

Below is a sample of a sawboard.

Note: Be sure to always use the same bit in your router once you have trimmed the hardboard for it's use.
NewMontanaWorkshop is offline  
post #3 of 3 (permalink) Old 10-20-2004, 02:34 PM
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 120

You can use a straight edge clamped on the board offset by the distance between cutter and router base.
6" widths of melamine coated chipboard are what I use as a straight edge for such jobs.
An 8' length is cheap enough and can later be used for shelving and such.
I use this method when buying full sheets of plywood from suppliers with no cutting service.
I take a couple of home made folding saw horses then cut the ply in the carpark with a cordless circular saw.
If the saw accidently moves a bit I do the same with my router once I get the ply home.
Dewy is offline  

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