Start off by practicing with scrap... not with your hardwood.
Start out with the stile bit. The stile bit has the profile with the face of the stock (what is visual) down towards the table. The bit height measurement for that (how I measure it) is the top of the table to the bottom inside edge of the groove. put your stock against it and make sure you are going to get a good face profile (the bottom third), but have enough meat on the top for the back profile. A Rail and Stile "profile" is a compound profile that can be divided into thirds: The face profile, the spline joint's profile and the back profile. You might have to adjust this to compensate...
Practice that. You should get comfortable with creating that profile. The goal is to get consistent pressure on your stock, both down to the table and back against your fence, while you are feeding your stock.
When you get comfortable with that profile, on to the rails. The rail profile is a mirror image of the stile profile, so they fit together. It is also with the face of the rail towards the table. The bit height is set from the top of the table to the inside bottom edge of the groove. The ifrist time stting this up, you can take one of you later practice stile profiles and set it against the rail bit to set that. Cut a practice piece on scrap. Fir that piece into that stile and make sure the faces meet up. Adjust if necessary.
Rail profiles are cut into the end grain. I use a sacrificial block cut at 90 degrees (actually I use a Jig as a reusuable sacrificial block). I put the block against the fence, with the rail stock stock against the block and fence, so it is perpendicular to the fence. Some will tell you "perpendicular" doesn't matter... but I get better quality this way and easier to support while cutting. The reason for using a block is that it supports the endgrain while cutting so you don't get breakout at the end of the cut.
When you get comfortable with doing those two profiles using scrap, and while practicing, create a piece of scrap with both profiles with the bit heights set to where it needs to be. Use that as a bit height gauge to reset your R&S bits to and mark that gauge as "SAVE". That way you can reset those 2 bits back to those height by using it to put the stile bit into the cut stile profile and the rail bit into the cut rail profile of that gauge.
(EDIT-- That bit height measurement is also a balance with the Panel's profile, so balance and adjust that between all 3 profiles. Because you also want to make sure that the panel's profile has a clean edge face and back... and. depending on the panel style and/or profile, whether all 3 pieces have their faces in the same plane.)
Does that help? I hope I explained that in a way that doesn't make that sound more difficult than it actually is. It isn't difficult, as long as you understand what you are trying to do and how it works "together."
With Oak, you're going to leave about 1/16" to 1/8" expansion room all the way around between panel and the R&S. Red Oak expands and contacts a bit more than other woods. The panel floats inside the other pieces. You use packing in the grooves to let the panel expand and contract inside that door frame. Make sure you plan for that, otherwise it will pop those R&S joints apart. You can do it without packing, but then the door "rattles" in use. Not really a bad sound, really a somewhat familiar sound to old homes... I make that joint fit snug, but not "tight." Stain the panel before you assemble. That way during contraction phase of the panel, you don't get an exposed light area in that joint.
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Last edited by MAFoElffen; 08-16-2013 at 03:07 PM.