Is it safe to "back route"? - Router Forums
 
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-01-2013, 06:56 AM Thread Starter
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Default Is it safe to "back route"?

Is it safe to "back route"?

Before I get the likely flood of no's ... the reason for my question is this;

When my wife and I bought a table back in 2010 (ie. had a table made), her compromise on the table edges was that I make a mirror for her from the natural timber edge off cuts. The table, and hence the edge pieces are Australian Red Gum.

Unfortunately, of the three pieces I had to work with, there was only one long enough for only one edge of the the mirror size that she wanted (please see the attached PDF for dimensions), and so I've decided to join two of the remaining pieces for the opposing side.
And hence my the problem:
As the pieces are fairly heavy, I wanted to join to two mating surface and be confident that they'll not only stay together, but also maintain their alignment. Unfortunately I don't have a Domino, and I was also concerned that I couldn't successfully align any dowel holes.
Using my router table I was hoping to create a dovetail slot in both pieces, equidistant from each edge and then create a dovetail 'key' to slide into the slot; hoping that this would also resist any twisting. One piece is in the correct orientation and will happily take on the dovetail profiled router bit, however to be able to get the opposing slot in the same axis, I'd have to "back route" the second piece.
1. Can you suggest a 'safe' way of doing this to save my fingers and the work piece? or
2. Do you have another suggestion for joining these two pieces?
Thanks in advance
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File Type: pdf Natural inner edge mirror Notes.pdf (492.7 KB, 57 views)
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-03-2013, 08:06 AM
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Tim, you could plunge rout a mortise in both pieces using a straight bit of your choice and cut a piece of wood to size for the tenon. This would allow for a thicker tenon that should stand up well.

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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-03-2013, 08:13 AM
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Instead of using a dovetail, perhaps use a dado? You could use a spiral bit instead of a flute bit. For the lower piece, you would slide it along your fence as usual. For the upper piece, you could slowly drop it onto the blade, then cut in the proper direction as usual.

Because your dropping it onto the blade, you could do 1/8'' at a time if you like. Just a thought.

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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-06-2013, 06:04 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the replies Gents,
Unfortunately Phil, I have yet to add a spiral (up or down) cut bit to my arsenal.
Maybe this is the excuse to do so.
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-06-2013, 06:45 AM
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I would go for the loose tenon rather than the double dovetail. Less margin for error that way.

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Last edited by jw2170; 10-06-2013 at 07:03 AM. Reason: spelling
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-06-2013, 11:05 AM
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I think I would be inclined to put in a straight groove across both pieces and then fit a piece of wood to the groove and screw it into the backs of the gum. You could make the groove (or grooves) as long as you think you need to keep it stable.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-06-2013, 11:08 AM
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Have you thought about laying the boards face down and installing a bowtie patch on backside
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