Removing a stuck bit from a Makita RP1800 - Router Forums
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-15-2014, 06:13 AM Thread Starter
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Default Removing a stuck bit from a Makita RP1800

Hi all

I hope I have posted this in the right area.

I've just bought a Makita RP1800 (my first router) and followed the instructions to correctly install a straight bit. The problem is I can't get the bit out....it is stuck fast.

To give a little background, I used an 8mm Leigh straight bit with the 1/2" to 8mm collet reducer sleeve inside the 1/2" collet. It installed fine and I backed it out about 1/8" before tightening the collet nut. I left the bit in a few nights and have not used the router at all as yet.

I wanted to try and remove the bit and swap it over for a dovetail bit.

The collet nut untightened easily but for the life of me I cannot extract the bit or collet reducer.

By way of further background, the router has a single collet nut and shift locking push button, instead of the two-nut self extracting system on other modern routers.

I don't want to damage the bit or collet or the router itself in trying to remove the straight bit.

Am I missing something here or is there some easy way to remove the bit? Again, it has a single collet nut and shift lock mechanism.

Any help greatly appreciated.

Cheers
Paul
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-15-2014, 09:07 AM
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Welcome to the forum Paul. All Makita routers have TWO locking points for the chuck, once the nut is first loosened with the spanner it can be rotated several times with one's fingers after which it locks again and requires the spanner to finally unlock the bit.
This is an excellent router and deserves to have the chuck replaced with a precision #9 MUSCLECHUCK which only requires a half turn to lock/unlock the bit, in addition it gives several times the grip of a standard chuck and as a bonus it gives about 12+mm of extra depth of cut. This chuck can be ordered via the forum at a 5% discount.

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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-15-2014, 09:09 AM
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Paul, routers with which I am familiar have a two-stage process for removing the bit. You loosen the collet nut, keep loosening and it becomes tight again, continue to loosen and the bit is released and popped out a little for easy removal. If this doesn't work for you then you need more help than I can give.
Good luck,
Phil
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-15-2014, 09:26 AM
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agree with above..once loose and turns with fingers, when feels tight again..loosen abit more with wrench and bit should slide out easy,,,welcome aboard...

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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-16-2014, 05:57 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks to everyone for all this advice. I haven't had the chance to try to remedy this yet but found it interesting that there are two locking points for my router, even though I only have one collet nut. I will retighten the collet nut and see if it tightens again after first being loosened. Fingers crossed.

I feel a little embarrassed if I have to take my router into the shop where it was bought and tell them I can't remove the first bit I installed.

Cheers
Paul
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-16-2014, 05:58 AM Thread Starter
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Harry, the Musclechuck looks great. I think I will definitely go down that track once I eventually loosen this stuck bit.

Cheers
Paul
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-16-2014, 06:29 AM
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Paul, only collet chucks that are precision engineered have this two "locking" points. It is due to the perfect fit of the tapers, they lock together like Morse tapers do in a drill press/lathe etc. Loosening the nut the first time still leaves the tapers stuck together and it's only when the "free" thread use used up the the next turn with the spanner breaks the seal. In spite of the original chuck being as good as they get in mass produced routers, 99% of woodworkers who use a MUSCLECHUCK are like me and wouldn't ever go back to a conventional chuck.

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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-16-2014, 07:15 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Harry. I just retightened the collet and then used the wrench to break the seal the first time. I then loosened the nut with my fingers and it came straight off with the bit still stuck, it did not grip a second time. I'm feeling a bit helpless with this dilemma at the moment....not sure what I am doing wrong because when I retighten the nut again to lock in the bit, it is rock solid.

re the Musclechuck, are you sure the #9 will work with my router because the Makita RP 1800 is not listed on their site?

Cheers and I greatly appreciate all of you advice so far.
Paul
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-16-2014, 09:09 AM
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Paul sometimes I have to strike the back side of the bit with my wrench with a few sharp taps to loosen the bit. Just strike it where you wont damage the cutting edge.

Dennis
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-16-2014, 09:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big_Ren View Post
Thanks Harry. I just retightened the collet and then used the wrench to break the seal the first time. I then loosened the nut with my fingers and it came straight off with the bit still stuck, it did not grip a second time. I'm feeling a bit helpless with this dilemma at the moment....not sure what I am doing wrong because when I retighten the nut again to lock in the bit, it is rock solid.

re the Musclechuck, are you sure the #9 will work with my router because the Makita RP 1800 is not listed on their site?

Cheers and I greatly appreciate all of you advice so far
.
Paul
Paul, it sounds to me that you may not have inserted the bit a full 25mm in which case the cone could be damaged.
As for the MUSCLECHUCK my decision was based on the fact that the part numbers for the RP1800 and RP2301FC cone and nut are identical. To be absolutely sure I've just sent an email to De-Rosa Engineering who I'm sure will reply promptly so keep watching this space.

Harry



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