Routing hardwoods? - Router Forums
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-04-2014, 07:16 AM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
L Town Graphics's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Country: United States
First Name: Dan
Posts: 269
 
Default Routing hardwoods?

Hey guys! I was wondering how many of you do any routing with hardwoods? I have recently started making turkey call pots on my lathe and noticed some of the harder woods (purpleheart, maple, and oak specifically) take forever to turn the inside of the pot. I'm sure some of this problem is due to my gouges not maintaining a sharpe edge (my set was purchased from harbor freight). Any opinions would be appreciated. I'm more or less trying to determine which way is more time efficient. Attached is a pot made of cherry wood, glass over aluminum with my logo.

"the last person that was perfect was crucified"
Find all of my work both wood and vinyl on Facebook
-coming soon- www.ltowngraphics.com
L Town Graphics is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-04-2014, 10:33 AM
Moderation Team
 
Cherryville Chuck's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Country: Canada
First Name: Charles
Posts: 15,664
 
Default

Higher quality tools should hold an edge longer. The harder the wood the slower it will machine as the resistance to the tool will increase with the added density. That is a fact of life.

What do you use to sharpen with? Maybe there are some improvements to made there too.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
Cherryville Chuck is online now  
post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-04-2014, 12:34 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
L Town Graphics's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Country: United States
First Name: Dan
Posts: 269
 
Default

A hand file, I don't own a grinder :-(

"the last person that was perfect was crucified"
Find all of my work both wood and vinyl on Facebook
-coming soon- www.ltowngraphics.com
L Town Graphics is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-04-2014, 01:00 PM
Moderation Team
 
Cherryville Chuck's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Country: Canada
First Name: Charles
Posts: 15,664
 
Default

Even if you had a grinder you should use a special soft bond stone on it. A file won't give you that good of an edge. The final edge a grinder will give you isn't good enough either. I suggest you go to Lee Valley's website and look at the sharpening tools they have and especially read the descriptions of what they are meant to accomplish. A lot can be learned that way. Here are some of their products worth looking at.
Veritasģ Honing Compound - Lee Valley Tools I use this with 2 felt wheels I have to hone to a final edge. One wheel is on a grinder, the other is on a drill mandrel. I think that one only cost me about $4.
Water Cones - Lee Valley Tools These are the traditional way of removing sharpening burrs on the inside of gouges, however, as you can see they are expensive. You can accomplish the same thing with the next link wrapped around a short length of hardware store doweling.
3M Micro-Abrasives for Sharpening - Lee Valley Tools These can take the place of diamond stones and honing compound on felt wheels.
Diamond Lapping Film - Lee Valley Tools One more option. The diamonds will last longer than silicon carbide and sharpen faster. The description and pictures are also helpful in learning what constitutes good sharpening practices.

In practice, you should only need to sharpen the main bevel occasionally. You would only need to hone the bevel in between. The file you are using will drastically shorten the life of the chisels you have which I guess is okay on a cheap set but you should look at replacing those with better ones, preferably after you have learned how to properly sharpen them. You don't necessarily need a full set of expensive chisels, one or two that you will use a lot may do it.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
Cherryville Chuck is online now  
post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-04-2014, 10:29 PM
Registered User
 
JOAT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Country: United States
First Name: Theo
Posts: 6,496
 
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by L Town Graphics View Post
A hand file, I don't own a grinder :-(
Don' need no steenkin' grinder. I had a set of the cheapest HF lathe tools for years. No problems with them at all. I sharpened them using a tip I got from the way I believe it was Maloof did his, or some big-time pro. I used a bench top belt sander to sharpen them. The theory is, the lathe chisels are continually changing angles, not like as plane blade. So, just sharpen them as close to factory angle as you can - which worked very well for me, even including turning some oak. The HF chisels didn't stay sharp for long periods of time, but it only took a few seconds to resharpen them on the belt sander. If I get another lathe, I will be sharpening the lathe chisels the exact same way.

"It ain't what you're told, it's what you know." - Granny Weatherwax
Fawkahwe tribal police SWAT Team
Some days, the supply of available curse words is insufficient to meet my demands.
.....Call me a craftsman, artisan, or artistic, and I will accept that. Call me an artist and you will likely get a quite rude comment in return. I am not a @#$%ing artist.
JOAT is offline  
post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-05-2014, 01:34 AM
Registered User
 
DaninVan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Country: Canada
First Name: Dan
Posts: 14,535
 
Default

Theo, +1
My sander is a Bosch that has a completely flat top...ie you can flip it on its back for using exactly as you describe. I don't even have the accessories shown; don't need 'em.
Bosch 1608030024, Sanding Stand for 1274DVS Belt Sander - 1608030024 BlackRock Tools
DaninVan is online now  
post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-05-2014, 01:37 AM
Registered User
 
DaninVan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Country: Canada
First Name: Dan
Posts: 14,535
 
Default

Oops! And that's a big 'oops'.
I make sure the dust bag is off, and all the fine sawdust is clear from the sander before I 'sand' metal. Not worried about explosions so much as a smouldering fire in the guts of the sander.
DaninVan is online now  
post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-05-2014, 03:10 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Country: South Africa
First Name: Ronald
Posts: 277
 
Default

Theo and Dan, what grit belt do you use for sharpening?
swarfmaker is offline  
post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-05-2014, 05:05 PM
Registered User
 
DaninVan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Country: Canada
First Name: Dan
Posts: 14,535
 
Default

Ronald; for basic shaping, 100 or 120, then I switch to pretty much whatever my local auto parts guy has sitting on his shelf that'll fit my belt sander.
He carries a huge selection for the autobody guys, but not much in the 3X21 or 3x24 belt sizes...
I should actually give my jitterbug pneumatic sander a try...he's got wet/dry sheets in ultra fine grits. Worth a try?
DaninVan is online now  
post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-05-2014, 05:08 PM
Registered User
 
DaninVan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Country: Canada
First Name: Dan
Posts: 14,535
 
Default

Ronald; I should also have added that I use the belt sander regularly for taking the burrs off the ends of threaded rod after I've cut them to length (5" portable grinder with cut-off discs).
DaninVan is online now  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Router Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Forum Suggestion Thread Mark Site Help and Suggestions 131 02-08-2015 09:33 AM
old person new to routing in wood sailer670 New Member Introductions 12 12-13-2014 07:31 PM
Use of template Guides cutter79 Guide Bushings and Templates 6 08-21-2013 03:18 AM
cutting speed for routing hardwoods ddingevan New Member Introductions 4 05-11-2013 08:47 AM
CNC routing as first routing experience ianthehenry CNC Routing 23 04-25-2012 04:24 AM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome