Using the router to "joint" small parts - Router Forums
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-18-2014, 10:38 AM Thread Starter
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Default Using the router to "joint" small parts

I've acquired a huge stash of exotic hardwood scrap, all roughly 3/4" x 3/4" x 5". I imagine they were pen blanks. I don't do any turning. But I would like to use some of these for inlay or scroll saw projects. Problem is, they are a bit rough and not squared up. I thought I could hand plane them to get at least one true face, but that is not working very well. They are very hard woods, many with wild grain; and the planes I own are either to small or too large for the job.

I know that it is possible to "joint" on a router table, using a straight cutting bit and an offset fence. I have this Craftsman benchtop model.


Three questions. First - do I have to have a true face before I can joint and edge? Or can I get by with having a face that is "merely" stable face down on the top of the table? By that I mean one that will not rock or tip.

Second, can I then use the router table to joint a face that is perpendicular to the first edge that I jointed on the router table?

Third, what would be a good way to hold these parts for these operations?
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-18-2014, 01:34 PM
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Do you own a thickness planer?
If so double face tape to a carry board and run them through the planer will give you one true side

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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-18-2014, 01:49 PM Thread Starter
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No I do not.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-18-2014, 08:48 PM
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You need one stable face as you described.I would then take the jointed side and lay it down on the table and do the stable side. The problem with the two remaining sides is that there is no guarantee that you are not making a wedge. I would probably run those two edges through my TS. That would guarantee parallelism and then you could joint them.

For a hold down I would probably put a rabbet on a pusher that would be maybe a 1/2" x 1/2" with a cleat at the back for the pushing part.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-19-2014, 01:26 AM
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I think it is fairly obvious why you were able to "acquire" those blanks! Other than for use in a lathe I don't see a use for them.

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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-19-2014, 04:05 AM Thread Starter
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I do see a use a for them. The question is, can the router table be used to true two faces. Any thoughts on that?
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-19-2014, 05:00 AM
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IMHO.......Hand plane.....I would not put pieces that small near a router

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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-19-2014, 09:18 AM
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Exactly as James said, in any case one has to start with one true surface.

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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-19-2014, 09:42 AM
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Couldn't a bench top belt sander be used to true one edge?

After that, couldn't you create a holding jig to then pass through the router table?
For that matter the holding jig could hold it when belt sanding.

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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-19-2014, 01:39 PM
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Default Small Parts Holder

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops...ics/safept.jpg

Whenever I have need to run small stock through a saw or Router @ my router Table, I use a device designed to do such a job "SAFELY". At least with something like this, you have a chance to save your fingers or your face.
I found this particular device @ Rockler. I have one just like it and it works great since I attached a fine grit stick-it sand paper to help hold the work piece.
Treat all your power tools as if they were a loaded gun with no safety switch.

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