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post #1 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-23-2014, 08:27 AM Thread Starter
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Default Where is Jerry

I haven't seen any posts from Jerry for a while. Hope all is well with him. His posts are oftentimes a launching point for some interesting discussions and I look forward to reading them.
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post #2 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-23-2014, 10:16 AM
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I haven't seen any posts from Jerry for a while. Hope all is well with him. His posts are oftentimes a launching point for some interesting discussions and I look forward to reading them.



Bill,
I'm still here. I've kept my head down working on my first cedar chest build. I have been being coached and encouraged by three members of the forum, Harry Sinclair, Dick Willis, and Bill? one of the moderators . These three guys have made the build extremely interesting, they are well versed int making sawdust and also very willing to help and to encourage.

The chest has been mentioned on the forum before, but to recap, Bill suggested that I consider using QS white oak which I am using. Dick suggested that the purchase of a pneumatic nailer, that was a great suggestion in regard for some some with the cedar lining, Harry and I have regrouped and his encouragement and approval is greatly appreciated. The list of help suggestion is quite long so I won't go into all of them here.

The issus of "biscuits or dowels" was an interesting thread, I went with dowels and just can't say enough good about the JessEm product. I did have to redrill two holes due to operator error, but the entire frame is all doweled and fits just fine.

One of the issues that has come up is that of dealing with glue lines at the joints. I have used Titebond III Dick is thinking that Titebone II might have been a better choice, I have orders some of it to try later on the lid which is another area to tell you about.

Harry warned me about not building the lid until the main part of the chest was done. Now I understand why as there were a few design modifications along the way that would have caused the first attempt at building the lid to not work even if it had turned out well, which it didn't. I had not taken Harry's advise about using biscuits and the lid slipped in the frame slightly during clamp up. This led to the purchase of a Bosch six inch ROS and the discovery 3X ceramic sand paper, I give Both Bill and Stick credit for this discovery.

The bad news is that the sander and the paper did not remedy the error and I had to give up on the first lid construction attempt, I'll start over later, and by the way Harry, I will heed your advise on the biscuits to get the frame for the lid to line up with the lid properly this time. Oh, the lessons of not heeding good advise, while well learned, can sure eat up time in attempting to overcome the mistakes.

This morning I installed the floor using pocket hole screws. The cedar lining was installed on the floor before it was put in place.

The temperatures here in West Texas have been and still are killers so the shop time is very limited.

I will attach some photos to show what the project is looking like so far.

Thanks for the interest in me Bill, makes me feel better, I was a bit concerned about starting a thread that caused a bit of heart burn for some of the members, so I felt that maybe I should back off for a bit.

Jerry
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post #3 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-23-2014, 11:29 AM
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Your build is coming along nicely, Jerry. I'm curious, what is the issue between Titebond III and Titebond II for glue lines?

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post #4 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-23-2014, 12:00 PM
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Your build is coming along nicely, Jerry. I'm curious, what is the issue between Titebond III and Titebond II for glue lines?

Oliver,
You need to ask Dick Willis about that, he just suggested it and so far I don't know from experience, but I do know that Dick knows about these things, what ever Dick tells me to try I try it. Harry, you've about got me broke to lead too, hope that makes you feel a little better about that.

Jerry
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post #5 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-23-2014, 02:04 PM
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nice...thx for sharing

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post #6 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-23-2014, 03:20 PM
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Your project is coming along nicely. Good job. Thanks for posting the pics. I like pics. :-)

I think Titebond III leaves a darker brown line when it is dry. At least, I think that is what it does.

That's my story and I'm stickin' to it!
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post #7 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-23-2014, 03:42 PM
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Your project is coming along nicely. Good job. Thanks for posting the pics. I like pics. :-)

I think Titebond III leaves a darker brown line when it is dry. At least, I think that is what it does.

Mike,
I'm sure that is what Dick is referring to, as I said, I don't know yet but will try in as the build continures.

Jerry
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post #8 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-23-2014, 07:22 PM
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Your project is coming along nicely Jerry. I also think that the dark brown glue line is the point. Titebond glues, especially 2 and 3 have become most peoples go to glue but there are not necessarily the best in all situations. Weldbond has equal holding power and dries clear and is also recommended for many uses that Titebond is not. Harry will back me up on this as I have seen him recommend it before.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #9 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-23-2014, 07:44 PM
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Your project is coming along nicely Jerry. I also think that the dark brown glue line is the point. Titebond glues, especially 2 and 3 have become most peoples go to glue but there are not necessarily the best in all situations. Weldbond has equal holding power and dries clear and is also recommended for many uses that Titebond is not. Harry will back me up on this as I have seen him recommend it before.
Charles,
This is a classic example of why this forum is of such value. I for one, would not have known about Weldbond had you not posted what you did, I now know, will get some of it and the glue line problem should be solved. Thanks for the heads up on the matter. As I recall Bill did some experiments with different glues recently and came up with similar conclusions.

As everybody knows that have folloeed my threads and posts, I was pretty heavy into precision shootins earlier in my life. There was a common statement in that circle that precision shooting was just a matter of paying attention to the details. I think that the statement is applicable to high end woodsorking and these fine details are often to be found on this outstanding forum. Maybe someday I will contribute a tid bit that will be of value to somebody, right now, for the most part, I have and am on the receiving end of all of this good information. Thanks again Charles.

Jerry
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post #10 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-23-2014, 11:26 PM
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Glad I could help Jerry and you've been the source of many worthwhile discussions so I would say that you've already contributed.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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