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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-12-2014, 02:56 PM Thread Starter
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Default Inlay problem

Before I begin my first jewelry box I wanted to practice making an inlay. This is my first attempt at making an inlay. I bought the Whiteside inlay kit and installed it in the plunge base of my Bosch router. I made a template of a heart that is about the size that I want to inlay in the box top. I'm actually thinking of making two hearts with one overlaying the other. Anyway, after a couple of false starts I ended up with the inlay shown in the picture. When my wife saw the finished product she didn't like the rounded "V" at the top of the heart. I explained that the bushing is 9/16th and that limits what I can do on an inside curve. She wasn't impressed and still didn't like it.

My question is, how can I make the top "V" look more like a "V"? Is there some combination of routing and chiseling that can accomplish this? I'm really stuck. As always, thanks for any advice.
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-12-2014, 03:06 PM
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Looking forward to the answer, Barry! I agree with your wife's assessment; it just doesn't look right with that 'u' instead of a 'v'.
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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-12-2014, 04:05 PM
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I don't know if this will work because of the grain direction but maybe try clamping the heart vertically between two boards and run a v groove bit over it. You'll get a sharp point that way. You'll probably have to groove the boards first so you know where to put the notch in the heart.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-12-2014, 05:31 PM
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Can't be done with a spinning tool bit.
Must be hand or laser cut.
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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-12-2014, 05:32 PM
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You can do it with a scroll saw with the table tipped about 2-7 degrees. You sandwich the boards together with double sided tape and cut both at once. Different thickness boards will require experimenting to get the table angle right and you have to make the entire cut in one direction, but which way is decided by the direction of tilt of the table and which board becomes the heart and which becomes the hole for the heart. When you get it right the heart that is cut in one board will fit perfectly into the tapered hole in the other board. I haven't done this in years, so don't remember the fine details, but it woks great when the adjustments are correct. For a heart, make your blade entry hole in the bottom of the V at the top of the heart and make it just barely large enough to get the blade through it. It will be almost invisible in the final assembly. I liked to make the heart stand slightly proud of the board surface so I could sand it perfectly flush. If you do this and both boards are exactly the same thickness, there will be a slight indentation of the back side of the heart. You can work to make the boards flush or the heart slightly proud of the surface by changes of about 1/2 degree of the table.

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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-12-2014, 06:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CharleyL View Post
You can do it with a scroll saw with the table tipped about 2-7 degrees. You sandwich the boards together with double sided tape and cut both at once. Different thickness boards will require experimenting to get the table angle right and you have to make the entire cut in one direction, but which way is decided by the direction of tilt of the table and which board becomes the heart and which becomes the hole for the heart. When you get it right the heart that is cut in one board will fit perfectly into the tapered hole in the other board. I haven't done this in years, so don't remember the fine details, but it woks great when the adjustments are correct. For a heart, make your blade entry hole in the bottom of the V at the top of the heart and make it just barely large enough to get the blade through it. It will be almost invisible in the final assembly. I liked to make the heart stand slightly proud of the board surface so I could sand it perfectly flush. If you do this and both boards are exactly the same thickness, there will be a slight indentation of the back side of the heart. You can work to make the boards flush or the heart slightly proud of the surface by changes of about 1/2 degree of the table.

Charley
Charley, as i first read this it sounded like a great idea. Then, i wondered how the bottom of board A (the shape in this case) could fit inside of the cavity cut right under it in board B. In theory, the bottom of A would be the same size as the top of B in my mind. Was trying to figure out how to ask--then it struck me that the saw kerf opens the cavity enough for the fit!! Brilliant. And the exact angle needed depends on the thickness of the blade, thickness of the stock, ability to control blade tracking and so on.

I don't know that i'll ever be able to do it--but right now i'm just pleased i was able to understand it!! Thanks!!
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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-13-2014, 08:44 AM
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I appreciate your problem as I have encountered it myself several times. I dont know if this will work but if you use the cut out itself as the guide routing on the outside edge you would get a crisp v at the top of the heart and a u shaped bottom. In making the inset you would start at the bottom of the heart and stop prior to making the last turn around the bottom so you could finish the pointed part with your scroll saw. Then place the inset so you could mark the pointed end over the u shaped cut out so you could finish the pointed cutout with a chisel. Sounds involved but can't think of an easier way. Good luck
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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-13-2014, 11:30 AM
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Default Better "V" Shape

The only way I know to get a better "V" shape with a router bit is to use an overhead pin arm inlay method on a router table using a 1/8" spiral router bit. Even then you might have to enhance the finished pocket with a chisel. I suggest you do a search on YouTube where I usually find great ideas and solutions. Good luck and please let us know how it works out for you.

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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-13-2014, 04:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barry747 View Post

My question is, how can I make the top "V" look more like a "V"? Is there some combination of routing and chiseling that can accomplish this? I'm really stuck. As always, thanks for any advice.
use a template w/ a sharp inside "V"....
hand cut the "V" on your inlay to match...

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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-14-2014, 07:09 AM
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Here's a link that will better explain (With Pictures) how to do it with a scroll saw.
I hope this makes better sense than my previous post.

Charley


North Carolina Woodworker - Segmented Bowl by Willemjm

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