Metal Laminate - Router Forums
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-21-2014, 09:00 AM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Country: United States
First Name: John
Posts: 32
 
Default Metal Laminate

Hello,

Working on a display cabinet for a customer who wants to add some inset metal laminate (brushed brass- satin chrome finish) into the drawers and doors. New to the metal laminate I was looking for some advise on routering this material. The metal laminate has the typical phenolic backing just like plastic. I am planning to first adhere the laminate to a substrate material, probably 1/4" Baltic birch. Rough cut my pieces then pattern trim them to finished size....so,

1. What type of router bit?
2. What speed for the router?
3 What feed rate is recommended?

Any other suggestions would also be appreciated (I.e. Adhesive type, finishing the edges, etc.)

In advance of all courtesies extended, THANK YOU!!!!!

John
JPF WOODWORKING is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-21-2014, 09:03 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Country: United States
First Name: Brad
Posts: 1,036
 
Default

I thing a carbide down cut spiral bit would be best to reduce tear out and any tendency for "wrinkling" along its cut edge. A high speed should provide a clean cut unless specified otherwise by the mfg. Feed rate should not be too critical, as long as you provide smooth, even strokes along the edge.


Just remember what my father always said, " Half the people in this world are below average!", and everything in life will make a hellova lot more sense.
timbertailor is offline  
post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-21-2014, 09:56 AM
Moderation Team
 
Cherryville Chuck's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Country: Canada
First Name: Charles
Posts: 15,676
 
Default

Onsrud has a bit that is specially for that that looks more like a rasp. They've been advertising it on eBay under their user/Co. name Onsrudcutter2010. It was cheap and free shipping so I would suggest you have a look for them and see if they are still listing that one.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
Cherryville Chuck is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-21-2014, 12:08 PM
Registered User
 
DaninVan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Country: Canada
First Name: Dan
Posts: 14,555
 
Default

This looks interesting...
InVectra Metal Laminate Trim Bits
DaninVan is offline  
post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-21-2014, 10:10 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Country: United States
First Name: Brad
Posts: 1,036
 
Default

$57 to $160 for a carbide spiral bit with a gussied up name.

Save your money and but a 1/4" one for $13. $30 with a roller bearing from Whiteside.


Just remember what my father always said, " Half the people in this world are below average!", and everything in life will make a hellova lot more sense.

Last edited by timbertailor; 11-21-2014 at 10:12 PM.
timbertailor is offline  
post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-22-2014, 07:37 AM
Registered User
 
Phil P's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Country: United Kingdom
First Name: Phil
Posts: 2,117
 
Default

Hi John

I've done my fair share of retail cabinets/counters with this stuff in the past. I'd suggest that you stick with a brazed carbide router bit or possibly a replaceable tip carbide bit - this is because the stuff is extremely aggressive and tends to burn grooves in your cutters fairly easily. In turn that means that you'll need to move the cutter up or down a bit from time to time to even out cutter wear

Router speed is same as normal for laminate and feed rate same as you'd normally use

A couple of other points worth noting; this stuff can take on a heck of a curl, especially if it has been stored badly (even if only tightly rolled for a day or two in transit). It may be necessary to unroll it and flatten it out between two sheets of plywood and some weights in really bad cases. Also when you spread the adhesive on it make sure that you put enough adhesive on - don't be stingy! I've found with some aminates it may be necessary to lay down a thin skin of contact adhesive, let that dry then put on a second coat to prevent it curling up off the carcassing - you don't know whether this is needed until you start laying down the laminate, I'm afraid. I'm not keen on using water-based adhesives with it because I don't think they have the holding power of solvent-based contact adhesives (saying that it may be all you can get). The other point is about marring. I've found metal laminates to be a lot worse than even high gloss solid colours for this, so protect your surfaces with a layer of 2in or 3in masking tape when trimming it and finish with a fine-cut hand file. Leave the protective plastic on until the very last minute and vacuum off dust frequently - even the dust produced by trimming it can scratch unprotected surfaces because it contains sharp metal strands and metal dust particles

Regards

Phil

"Unfortunately there is lots of bad information online; some of it is really scary. It's probably not intentional, but I've seen some content that sets up the illusion that you can do whatever you want and get away with it" - Norm Abram in an interview with Jefferson Kolle

Last edited by Phil P; 11-22-2014 at 07:42 AM.
Phil P is offline  
post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-22-2014, 07:49 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Country: Canada
First Name: Al
Posts: 428
 
Default

I just laminated my table saw extension table with a brushed aluminum (see above thread).Found it cut wee with a standard carbide flush trimmer,but in a couple places when trimming the top,the sides were scuffed some what,so as Phil said,tape would be a good idea.One other problem I had,not a biggie for my purpose but would really annoy me in a kitchen etc is I some how ended up with one very small dent,not sure how that happened.
Btw,only used this because it was a cheap kijiji(like craigslist) find
al m is offline  
post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 11-23-2014, 12:21 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Country: United States
First Name: John
Posts: 32
 
Default

Thanks everyone, really appreciate the advice! JPF
JPF WOODWORKING is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Router Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
logic trace program for metal objects woodman12 CNC Routing 0 03-19-2014 07:02 PM
safe to assume laminate table top has no embedded metal? mrblint Project Plans and How To 13 02-21-2014 07:21 PM
A suggestion from Maurice harrysin Woodturning and Lathes 48 12-08-2013 09:16 AM
Routing laminate?? Bshmstr General Routing 8 04-01-2013 12:33 PM
Laminate counter with oak edge kefjens General Routing 13 03-27-2009 04:37 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome