Plunge and Fixed bases better to have both? - Router Forums
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-28-2004, 12:50 PM Thread Starter
 
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Question Plunge and Fixed bases better to have both?

I just purchased(from Rockler) a P/C 892 (fixed base only) unit. I now find that they have placed the 895 (which comes w/ both bases and the adjustment knob) on sale, the doallar diff between my 892 and the 895 is about $70.00. I have done some searches and found that the plunge base (8931) can be bought seperate but for around $99.00.
I am a newbie and really like the idea of using a router for many options(cabinets, bed frame, cedar chest, etc...).
I guess what im asking here is: Rockler will allow the exchange for the diff. Is this a good deal ? Will i a USE plunge base for anything ? The 2 guys that i asked at Rockler say that they very rarely use a plunge base !

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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-28-2004, 02:30 PM
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If you can afford the extra money I would sure go for the addition of a plunge base.

I have a pair of 690's and have the plunge base and D-handle to exchange bases with. Unlike the guys at Rockler I would say most of my routing is done with the plunge base followed by the D-handle then last would be the std. base.

I have a dedicated plunge router in a table with the springs out, so if you want to count that then the plunge routers are in use 70% of the time.

A lot of project take extra effort when using a std. base, you need a starting hole because you can't plunge, things like this also take extra time. Even making several passes is easier with a plunge router, you set the pole stop at the ending depth then plunge to less then that make a pass, come back and plunge a little deeper etc. On fixed base routers you will want to turn the router off to readjust the depth each time.....

I think everyone should have a plunge router but then that's just me. I started with a sear fixed base and moved up a lot of years later and wondered why I wanted so long.

Ed
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-28-2004, 07:10 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dietz
I just purchased(from Rockler) a P/C 892 (fixed base only) unit. I now find that they have placed the 895 (which comes w/ both bases and the adjustment knob) on sale, the doallar diff between my 892 and the 895 is about $70.00. I have done some searches and found that the plunge base (8931) can be bought seperate but for around $99.00.
I am a newbie and really like the idea of using a router for many options(cabinets, bed frame, cedar chest, etc...).
I guess what im asking here is: Rockler will allow the exchange for the diff. Is this a good deal ? Will i a USE plunge base for anything ? The 2 guys that i asked at Rockler say that they very rarely use a plunge base !

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Ted
Obviously they were not the people to ask about routers. I would use the router for 90% of the time in the plunge mode
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-28-2004, 10:38 PM
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dietz,

Most definitely you will use the plunge base router. I too started with a Craftsman fixed base router until 6 or 7 months later bought the Bosch combo kit. Sometimes I make wooden name or number signs for friends and family and it's not easy using a fixed base router turned on and dropping the bit in the template. As a matter of fact, that's how I ruined one of the letters in my letter template kits. The combination kit is best! With the plunge base you can just set the router down on your stock and plunge the bit. Makes life easier.

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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-29-2004, 07:16 PM Thread Starter
 
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I took it back to Rockler, without a hassle !! In fact there was another guy (manager) that i spoke to on the exchange and he agrees that for the price and just for having another available base its the way to go !!

Thanks again !!
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-29-2004, 08:34 PM
 
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I have absolutely no idea if _you'd_ ever use a plunge base or not. I do, however, know that I use the plunge base quite a bit (yeah... pun intended). I even use the plunge base with the router motor installed in it!

Any time I'm doing any free hand routing that might call for starting a cut somewhere other than on the very outer edge(s) of a work piece I will use the plunge base (with motor installed). I don't like to "tilt plunge" to start routing a hole (or anything else) somewhere within the outer boundaries of a work area.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-30-2004, 07:43 PM
 
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Ok...............I am a complete beginner when it comes to using routers out of the table............come to think of it I'm a complete beginner at using routers. when using a plunge base off the table do you set the depth of cut and hold the router down against spring pressure or lock it in place? When using the plunge base on the table do you take the router out plunge it and lock it in place. When I read about using a router it sounds simple but when I go to use one it's not quite so simple. I have the PC 690 with both bases but I wish I'd read a but more and gotten a router with above the table adjustment. Good plunging.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 11-30-2004, 08:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DONALD
Ok...............I am a complete beginner when it comes to using routers out of the table............come to think of it I'm a complete beginner at using routers. when using a plunge base off the table do you set the depth of cut and hold the router down against spring pressure or lock it in place? When using the plunge base on the table do you take the router out plunge it and lock it in place. When I read about using a router it sounds simple but when I go to use one it's not quite so simple. I have the PC 690 with both bases but I wish I'd read a but more and gotten a router with above the table adjustment. Good plunging.
Let me give this a shot. First you can use the plunge router as if it were a std. base (fixed). To do this you use the plunge feature to set the depth and just keep it locked in that position.

The added advantage of the plunge is that you can set the depth using several methods. Having set the depth and adjusting the pole stop to provide a positive stop you let the router up bring the bit out of contact with the wood. Then you can locate where you want to start routing and "plunge" it either part way in and take several passes each one a little deeper then the one before or in the case of making a hole you just plunge the whole depth.

In every case you should let the lock be set while routing.

While in a table you adjust the router bit height then lock it. If you have a table where the router is mounted to the table then an "above the table" adjustment would be nicer, if you have the router on a mounting plate that comes out then it is easy to set without the "above the table" feature.

So that is two chapters into a few words........

Ed
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-01-2004, 11:30 AM
 
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Thanks for the info Relible. I bought a router table on E-Bay. The workmanship is good but I didn't read the description well enough. It came without a metal miter track and metal T slots for the fence. By the time I've gotten the fence out of the way so I can lift the plate and router out the fence is free of the table. If I tighten the outfeed fence tight enough to keep it from moving when routing I can feel the head of the bolt is digging into the MDF. I'm going to buy another table because I don't have the skill to build one my self. I've been looking at Rocklers tables because they come with a predrilled aluminum plate to fit my router but they are sold out of all their tables. I've also looked at Woodhaven"s tables. If anyone has any recommendations I will be thankful for any info. you have. Thanks again................DON
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-02-2004, 11:00 AM
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Donald, building your own router table is not a complex job. I built my first table over a weekend. There are many good plans with easy step by step instructions. If you dont have a table saw to cut your wood to size, remember any place that sells you wood will be happy to do that for a small charge. You dont have to have metal tracks. You can cut a groove using a straight bit for mitre gauges, a fence can simply be a board clamped to the table top. There are router bits designed to cut the T shaped slots for adjustable hold downs. Remember it doesnt have to be fancy to get the job done. I found a homemade router table with a piece of 3/4" plywood with 3 holes drilled through it to accept a Craftsman router at a garage sale for $5. Building your own table can be a very easy way to get accustomed to your router, and you have the pleasure of having done it yourself.
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