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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-06-2015, 06:53 PM Thread Starter
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Default Hi, Hitachi M12VE

Evening all and Hi,
Just joined and have a feeling I will be back regularly!
I am wondering if anyone has any tips for M12 router (or for newbie in general)
I have it ordered for delivery Monday, I will practice until comfortable before cutting wood worktops however I am a little confused as to the direction of travel possible in particular. I understand keep cuts on the left, but videos I have seen show pushing forward, pulling back, turning in circle. I don't want to be scared of it, I know they are dangerous if misused and powerful, but would like to be able to throw it around the wood a little so to speak.

Also do bits show recommended speed setting? and is there any correlation between the numerical dial and set speed? 800- 2200rpm.

lastly I have read old reviews regarding fitting of cutters being tricky with two nuts, however newer video shows a locking button and one nut; is this an updated design perhaps?

thanks

Keven
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-06-2015, 09:36 PM
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I have the M12v and a V2 and like them both. I'm not sure how yours differs.

As a rule you never want to climb cut. You can find that on Wiki and it will explain it with diagrams. You can tell when you are going the wrong way. One way the router wants to pull away from you. The right way you should have to push it. When you are edge routing with a handheld router that will be from left to right.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-06-2015, 11:29 PM
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Keven
Put your right hand thumb against the edge you want to router your index finger will point in the direction to router
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-06-2015, 11:31 PM
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Quote:
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Keven
Put your right hand thumb against the edge you want to router your index finger will point in the direction to router
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Looking forward to your participation.
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Thank You John
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-07-2015, 09:20 AM
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Keven
There may be some instances as you get into it where you may need to" climb" cut. This is not dangerous if done carefully in small cuts. Another way to tell which way to cut is look at
The cutter. The sharp edge should feed into whatever you are cutting.
Dennis

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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-07-2015, 09:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artylarry View Post
Evening all and Hi,
Just joined and have a feeling I will be back regularly!
I am wondering if anyone has any tips for M12 router (or for newbie in general)
I have it ordered for delivery Monday, I will practice until comfortable before cutting wood worktops however I am a little confused as to the direction of travel possible in particular. I understand keep cuts on the left, but videos I have seen show pushing forward, pulling back, turning in circle. I don't want to be scared of it, I know they are dangerous if misused and powerful, but would like to be able to throw it around the wood a little so to speak.

Also do bits show recommended speed setting? and is there any correlation between the numerical dial and set speed? 800- 2200rpm.

lastly I have read old reviews regarding fitting of cutters being tricky with two nuts, however newer video shows a locking button and one nut; is this an updated design perhaps?

thanks

Keven
some tips...
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Attached Files
File Type: pdf Routing for Beginners - Lesson - 1.pdf (1.50 MB, 59 views)
File Type: pdf Routing for Beginners - Lesson - 2.pdf (1.36 MB, 59 views)
File Type: pdf Routing for Beginners - Lesson - 3.pdf (856.1 KB, 49 views)
File Type: pdf Routing for Beginners - Lesson - 4.pdf (1.14 MB, 46 views)
File Type: pdf Routing for beginners - Lesson - 5.pdf (4.36 MB, 54 views)
File Type: pdf Care and Sharpening of Router Bits.pdf (123.5 KB, 45 views)
File Type: pdf CLIMB CUTTING.pdf (74.4 KB, 48 views)
File Type: pdf STUCK ROUTER BITS.pdf (117.1 KB, 42 views)
File Type: pdf Collet_Maintenance.pdf (86.2 KB, 51 views)
File Type: pdf Guide to Router Collets.pdf (163.0 KB, 46 views)
File Type: pdf RouterBitBasics_en.pdf (1.78 MB, 52 views)

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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-07-2015, 11:01 AM
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Welcome to the forum. I suspect you'll be like many of us who open the email every day. Always something interesting or something to learn.

I suggest you order a copy of Bill Hylton's book, Woodworking With the Router, at Amazon. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/156...f_rd_i=desktop. I found a used copy elsewhere for about $6. Really covers the territory for any router.

Here is a quick bit diameter / speed chart
Bit size / Maximum Speed
1" / 24,000 RPM
1.25 to 2" / 18,000 RPM
2.25 to 2.5" / 16,000 RPM
3 to 3.5" / 12,000 RPM

Hylton also has a new book called Router Magic, but I haven't found a used one yet.

Last edited by DesertRatTom; 02-07-2015 at 11:03 AM. Reason: added welcome
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-07-2015, 12:11 PM Thread Starter
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many thanks guys, I am get the idea regarding direction now, i am sure once i have a play it will become easier. I hope to get the 'feel' for it pretty quick. I shall try to avoid climb for now, and go back over cuts in same direction until i am sure. will shallower passes help preserve the bit longer?
I will get stuck into the pdfs for now stick.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-07-2015, 02:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artylarry View Post
will shallower passes help preserve the bit longer?
Hi Keven

Yes, but more to the point by not bogging the bit down you will reduce any tendency for the router to stall, break cutters (especially on 1/4in shank cutters) or kick back

Regards

Phil

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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-07-2015, 03:48 PM
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Straight bits when cutting grooves aren't usually very good at clearing the chips out and they get very hot because of it. Taking shallower and progressively deeper passes can help. You shouldn't exceed the diameter of the bit in depth.

With profile bits like an ogee you make the main cut and then extend the bit a few more thousandths and make a finish cut which is usually much smoother. Some bits can't be moved like that but you could use them on a router table or with an edge guide and take just slightly more off on the last pass. Some really large it's like raised panel bits should be used in several passes.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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