My router slows to a stop under light pressure - Router Forums
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-02-2015, 03:47 AM Thread Starter
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Default My router slows to a stop under light pressure

Hi there I'm new to the forum but hope to become a regular member of the community.

I had a 1250w router given to me by my dad. He had only used it for one project a few years back (fitting a worktop in a caravan). I turned it on and it started fine (evidently with soft start.
I bought a router table insert as I wanted to make my own router table. after spending a few hours I finally finished it but to my dismay the router seems faulty. Putting the slightest pressure on the cutter slows it to a stop. I was only cutting a small rebate into one. My 600w palm router has no problem doing the same cut worth the same bit. The bit is brand new too.

Here's a video of the problem


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OKYoaD_8RGI

The router was bought from eBay by my dad but he said it was fully packaged as new.
I can't tell you the make as the label no longer exists but I've attached a photo.

Is my router knackered?

Thanks for any help Michael
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-02-2015, 04:20 AM
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is the voltage correct for the tool...
or check if some other equipment is taking power away from the motor.

motor may be mis-wired...

open neutral and the tool is feeding back to the ground instead of the neutral...
Inspect stator for defects, or loose or cut wires that may cause it to go to ground.

this is at the top of the suspect list:....
Stator is shorted or went to ground.
Motor will make a humming noise and the circuit breaker or fuse will trip or it may not.
Disassemble motor and inspect windings and internal connections.
A blown stator will show a burn mark. Motor must be replaced or the stator rewound.

If voltage is less than 10% of the motor’s rating contact power company or check if some other equipment is taking power away from the motor. If motor is run using an extension cord, verify that this extension cord is properly sized for motor's current draw.

Whether or not there is a capacitor, the motor may have an internal short that doesn't trip a breaker or blow a fuse, but is sufficient to prevent the development of proper torque.

In any case, disassembly and investigation is necessary to determine the cause of the trouble.

the router may have been in an original package but it mostly likely isn't new or the router is defective out of the box and you are the QC department...
any clue as to where it was made???

FWIW:...
that is a pretty big chunk to be cutting in one pass...
put a larger bearing on the bit and do the cut in multiple passes...

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”

Last edited by Stick486; 03-02-2015 at 04:32 AM.
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-02-2015, 05:42 AM
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Hi Michael and welcome from a fellow Brit

One question about this router, is it a variable speed router? If it is, my first suspicion would be that the speed controller board is defective. That could produce the type of fault you are seeing. The way to test would be to bypass the controller board and in-effect convert the router to a single speed router. The other possibility is that the capacitor is failing, which could produce a similar fault. The capacitor failure is the only problem I can think of (other than bearings) where you'd be able to use a non-manufacturer part to make a repair.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Stick486 View Post
is the voltage correct for the tool...
or check if some other equipment is taking power away from the motor.
Doesn't normally apply here, Stick, our mains voltage is always 230 volts. The only wrong voltage would be a US-spec 120 volt tool - and that would "cook up" pretty quickly on 230 volts (seen it happen)

Quote:
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motor may be mis-wired...
Now that I'd possibly consider

Quote:
Originally Posted by Stick486 View Post
open neutral and the tool is feeding back to the ground instead of the neutral...
There won't be a "ground" (referred to as earth in the UK). All domestic power tools sold here since the early 1980s are double-insulated 2-wire neutral-earth (to the OP: the tool will have a 2-wire flex and possibly a moulded-on plug). There might well be a grounding issue, but if it's not immediately apparent then the tool is in all likelihood not worth repairing on account that it is a low-cost Chinese router (possibly from the same place that makes Silverline stuff, it looks similar).

Sorry to be negative Michael, but routers like this start at £30 and really aren't worth much effort to repair - in any case spare parts are completely non-existent

Regards

Phil

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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-02-2015, 05:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil P View Post

Doesn't normally apply here, Stick, our mains voltage is always 230 volts. The only wrong voltage would be a US-spec 120 volt tool - and that would "cook up" pretty quickly on 230 volts (seen it happen)

Regards

Phil
how about voltage drop from excessive extension cord...

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-02-2015, 06:11 AM
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Welcome to the forum. You never want to stop a power tool dead still (or even to very slow). You will overheat the wiring inside very quickly as in one to 3 seconds possibly.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-02-2015, 06:28 AM
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I vote for a bad electronic speed control module like Phil said. My PC 7518 won't maintain speed on the slow setting, but it does fine at max speed, where the electronics are apparently by-passed.

“We should be careful to get out of an experience only the wisdom that is in it and stop there lest we be like the cat that sits down on a hot stove lid. She will never sit down on a hot stove lid again and that is well but also she will never sit down on a cold one anymore.” - Mark Twain
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-02-2015, 06:43 AM Thread Starter
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Hi guys, thanks for the responses so far.

I can confirm that the unit is plugged directly into a wall socket and not an extension lead.

Quote:
my first suspicion would be that the speed controller board is defective
This may well be a possibility. There was, when I took the router out of the case, the end of a cable/zip tie wedged into the speed control dial. Looks like the kind thing you might do if excessive vibration would cause the dial to turn on its own.
This however didn't seem to happen when I used the machine. The dial does speed the router up and slow it down as it is supposed to and there don't seem to be any broken/dry solder joints when I looked at the speed control board.


Quote:
You never want to stop a power tool dead still
Tell me about it, that's why I'm here
Had to do it to show for the video though.


Quote:
Sorry to be negative Michael, but routers like this start at £30 and really aren't worth much effort to repair - in any case spare parts are completely non-existent
I know what you mean, I am very close to just dumping it and buying a new one. For the amount that I will use a router a cheapish one would be all I need.

Another problem I have found is that there seems to be virtually none that have a lock-on switch for easy use with a router table!. It's nuts!
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-02-2015, 08:40 AM
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Most of the trigger style models have a lock button. If yours doesn't could duct tape it in position and use a secondary switch instead.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-02-2015, 10:13 AM
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If it were mine, I'd bypass the speed control entirely and see if it works. You'll probably lose the soft-start function but that's the price you pay. Speed control is not really needed on bits less than 2.5 inches in diameter anyway.

“We should be careful to get out of an experience only the wisdom that is in it and stop there lest we be like the cat that sits down on a hot stove lid. She will never sit down on a hot stove lid again and that is well but also she will never sit down on a cold one anymore.” - Mark Twain
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-02-2015, 01:14 PM
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I've listened to the beginning of the video several times and you can here the router is still trying to gain speed even before you start your cut. I would also suspect the speed control. Also check if you have a cracked brush with a intermittent connection. I know said you have the proper voltage going to the tool but it defiantly sounds under powered, that's one reason I would check you brushes.

Bruce
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