Freud 2200E -- How do I set it up for a measured depth plunge cut? - Router Forums
 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-11-2007, 06:03 PM Thread Starter
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Default Freud 2200E -- How do I set it up for a measured depth plunge cut?

I mark my debut here with a question that I hope is easy to answer, with specific tips the Freud 2200E if I'm lucky but general wisdom accepted.

Despite reading the very brief instruction manual and spending 45 minutes attempting to figure out on my own how to set up the router to make a measured plunge cut, the light bulb fails to come on.

New Freud 2200E plunge router. Spiral upcut bit mounted, to be used on "build your own speakers" project, to cut recesses for speaker edges and the holes for the speakers themselves.

The recess for the edge of a speaker is to be 3/16" deep. I have lowered the router until the tip of the bit just touches the MDF and locked the height. I assume that this is what is described as the "zero point" or "zero height".

While this seems like the correct thing to do, I hesitate to sound confident with this assessment because none of the height adjustments available to me make sense past this point.

The router has a long, sliding/turning screw that has a marker on top that overlays a measurement scale. The bottom of this long screw can hit one of three, adjustable-height stop screws mounted on a pivot on the baseplate.

I'm guessing I have to adjust one of the stop screws at the bottom so that plunging the router into the MDF causes the long sliding/turning measurement screw to hit the particular stop screw so as to give me an exact 3/16" depth cut.

Danged if I can figure out an accurate way to set this up though.

I'm tempted to say that I'm over-thinking this missing something easy, because as probably the most basic operation of a plunge router, setting a measured plunge depth couldn't possible be this difficult.

Any advice offered, general or specific, would be most appreciated.

Last edited by Ladd; 11-11-2007 at 10:00 PM.
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-11-2007, 11:13 PM
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Hmmm... maybe I oversimplify, or perhaps I'm just lazy, but I have ...errrr.... "been known to" set depth of cuts by trial and error on scrap wood. The "pros" will blow me out of the water for suggesting this, but I ain't proud. If it works...
Oh... and welcome to the Forum... great buncha' folks here.

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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-12-2007, 12:01 AM
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Get a set of Brass measuring bars. You can get them from Oak Park, or Rockler or Woodcraft. They save a lot of measuring. Plunge your router till you touch the surface of the material. Stick the 3/16 bar on top of the screw in the base. Loosen the knob locking the plunge rod in place. Let it drop till it touches the brass bar, then tighten the locking knob. You are then in business remove the brass rod and try it.
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-12-2007, 07:02 AM
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Ladd, you have the right idea and the way that I teach accurate depth setting is to use twist drills which we all have, probably going up in 1/64th increments. There have been several earlier posts on speaker mounting and the son of our esteemed member Bob Jurgens ( Bobj3 ) does it for a living so I'm sure when Bj wakes up he will head you in the right direction.

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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-12-2007, 09:01 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roefa
I have ...errrr.... "been known to" set depth of cuts by trial and error on scrap wood.
A good idea of last resort and one that I hadn't thought of yet as I have been concentrating on the measuring scale and stops on the fancy router -- thinking that they are there for a reason, possibly one that actually solves my basic question.

Thanks for tip!
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-12-2007, 09:07 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LeeC
Get a set of Brass measuring bars. You can get them from Oak Park, or Rockler or Woodcraft. They save a lot of measuring. Plunge your router till you touch the surface of the material. Stick the 3/16 bar on top of the screw in the base. Loosen the knob locking the plunge rod in place. Let it drop till it touches the brass bar, then tighten the locking knob. You are then in business remove the brass rod and try it.
OK, I can see how this would work well, albeit requiring an additional purchase.

I realize that real-world solutions many times make an end run around the problem, but I must admit that I'm surprised that the measuring scale on the router itself doesn't appear to actually be used here.

Thanks for the tip!
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-12-2007, 09:23 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harrysin
... the way that I teach accurate depth setting is to use twist drills which we all have, probably going up in 1/64th increments.
Ooh, drill bits. Another great work-around tip. Thanks!

So the fancy measuring scale on the router isn't actually used for adjusting cut depth?

I have no problem with noob thinking (after all, it ain't common sense if you've never seen or heard about it before), but at least tell me I'm not crazy for thinking the measuring scale that appears directly related to cut depth might have been actually directly related to cut depth!

A great picture of the measuring scale that has confused me isn't found on the internet, but I include a photo below; note on the right side of the router the long silver screw that can either slowly be screwed up and down or push the black button in the housing and the screw can be adjusted up or down quickly. The top of the screw is capped with a piece of plastic that has a line across it to reference a scale in mm or 1/64". On the base is a multi-level stop screw setup.


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Last edited by Ladd; 11-12-2007 at 09:25 AM.
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-12-2007, 09:54 AM
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Hi Ladd

Most all of the plunge routers have a drop gage bar with marks on it but most are just for looks,that's to say the little marks on them are,,,the best way I have found is to use the brass bars and the next step up for accurate measurements is to use the drill bits, the brass bars work great ,you just want to be in the ball park but if you want it dead on the drill way is best..

Just chuck the bit up and drop it on the stock and lock the router motor in place then lift the bar up and put in what every size you want to use then lock the stop screw in place, many times it maybe more than 1/4" deep that's what the little pivot part is for turn it so it will plunge down 1/4" deep on the 1st.pass then move it back for the last pass with your true setting is set for..

You may say but the brass bars only go up to 1/2" that's true but you can stack two or more to get the true setting and with the drill bit on the top of that it will be dead on, I use a bit of tape when I need to hold all 3 in place.
you don't want to drop any bits down the hole..

The more you use the router you will find shortcuts like making a set of stop blocks from hardwood to fit on a small chain or a big ring...and then just pickup a drill bit and put in on top of the stop block...and set the drop bar on top and your set to go..



==========








Quote:
Originally Posted by Ladd
I mark my debut here with a question that I hope is easy to answer, with specific tips the Freud 2200E if I'm lucky but general wisdom accepted.

Despite reading the very brief instruction manual and spending 45 minutes attempting to figure out on my own how to set up the router to make a measured plunge cut, the light bulb fails to come on.

New Freud 2200E plunge router. Spiral upcut bit mounted, to be used on "build your own speakers" project, to cut recesses for speaker edges and the holes for the speakers themselves.

The recess for the edge of a speaker is to be 3/16" deep. I have lowered the router until the tip of the bit just touches the MDF and locked the height. I assume that this is what is described as the "zero point" or "zero height".

While this seems like the correct thing to do, I hesitate to sound confident with this assessment because none of the height adjustments available to me make sense past this point.

The router has a long, sliding/turning screw that has a marker on top that overlays a measurement scale. The bottom of this long screw can hit one of three, adjustable-height stop screws mounted on a pivot on the baseplate.

I'm guessing I have to adjust one of the stop screws at the bottom so that plunging the router into the MDF causes the long sliding/turning measurement screw to hit the particular stop screw so as to give me an exact 3/16" depth cut.

Danged if I can figure out an accurate way to set this up though.

I'm tempted to say that I'm over-thinking this missing something easy, because as probably the most basic operation of a plunge router, setting a measured plunge depth couldn't possible be this difficult.

Any advice offered, general or specific, would be most appreciated.



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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-12-2007, 04:23 PM Thread Starter
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I had about two minutes of free time today and tried the "drill bit" method of setting up a 3/16" plunge cut. Haven't actually turned the router on to test it yet, but the set up did seem straight forward and easy to do.

I can certainly see how using the brass or hardwood bar gauges would make things even easier.

Guess I won't be using the measuring scale on the the router much!
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