Most all of the plunge routers have a drop gage bar with marks on it but most are just for looks,that's to say the little marks on them are,,,the best way I have found is to use the brass bars and the next step up for accurate measurements is to use the drill bits, the brass bars work great ,you just want to be in the ball park but if you want it dead on the drill way is best..
Just chuck the bit up and drop it on the stock and lock the router motor in place then lift the bar up and put in what every size you want to use then lock the stop screw in place, many times it maybe more than 1/4" deep that's what the little pivot part is for turn it so it will plunge down 1/4" deep on the 1st.pass then move it back for the last pass with your true setting is set for..
You may say but the brass bars only go up to 1/2" that's true but you can stack two or more to get the true setting and with the drill bit on the top of that it will be dead on, I use a bit of tape when I need to hold all 3 in place.
you don't want to drop any bits down the hole..
The more you use the router you will find shortcuts like making a set of stop blocks from hardwood to fit on a small chain or a big ring...and then just pickup a drill bit and put in on top of the stop block...and set the drop bar on top and your set to go..
Originally Posted by Ladd
I mark my debut here with a question that I hope is easy to answer, with specific tips the Freud 2200E if I'm lucky but general wisdom accepted.
Despite reading the very brief instruction manual and spending 45 minutes attempting to figure out on my own how to set up the router to make a measured plunge cut, the light bulb fails to come on.
New Freud 2200E plunge router. Spiral upcut bit mounted, to be used on "build your own speakers" project, to cut recesses for speaker edges and the holes for the speakers themselves.
The recess for the edge of a speaker is to be 3/16" deep. I have lowered the router until the tip of the bit just touches the MDF and locked the height. I assume that this is what is described as the "zero point" or "zero height".
While this seems like the correct thing to do, I hesitate to sound confident with this assessment because none of the height adjustments available to me make sense past this point.
The router has a long, sliding/turning screw that has a marker on top that overlays a measurement scale. The bottom of this long screw can hit one of three, adjustable-height stop screws mounted on a pivot on the baseplate.
I'm guessing I have to adjust one of the stop screws at the bottom so that plunging the router into the MDF causes the long sliding/turning measurement screw to hit the particular stop screw so as to give me an exact 3/16" depth cut.
Danged if I can figure out an accurate way to set this up though.
I'm tempted to say that I'm over-thinking this missing something easy, because as probably the most basic operation of a plunge router, setting a measured plunge depth couldn't possible be this difficult.
Any advice offered, general or specific, would be most appreciated.