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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 12-03-2007, 11:16 PM Thread Starter
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Default O rings for routers

Where can someone buy o rings to but in the bottom of a router collet? What size for 1/2 in and 1/4 inch?

Many thanks

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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 12-03-2007, 11:54 PM
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Steve check out this link:
http://www.routerforums.com/table-mo...er-collet.html

I got this by doing a search on o-rings.

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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 12-04-2007, 12:02 AM
 
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I guess I can't see the need. Bob says put the bit to the bottom and pull a sixteenth inch. Good enuf for me! Rich
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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 12-04-2007, 12:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dadsalmon
I guess I can't see the need. Bob says put the bit to the bottom and pull a sixteenth inch. Good enuf for me! Rich
Rich, I do the same thing but I have had them slip down to the bottom while tightening the collet nut when I didn't know it. Also with some matched sets of bits like tounge and groove, rail and stile etc. you retain the matched set characteristics when you bottom both out on the o-ring. No guess work.

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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 12-04-2007, 03:27 AM
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The O-ring should fit snuggly into the shaft hole. The diameter of the ring material should be 3/16-1/8". The reason for this is proper spacing that is automatic. You insert the bit till it touches the O-ring and stops. The O-ring allows the collet to compress normally for a secure fit each and every time. By using the O-ring method you eliminate the possibility of the bit shifting too far into the shaft which causes a loose grip on the bit. It is also much easier to have the bit resting on the O-ring and tighten it in place, no guess work involved.

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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 12-04-2007, 07:32 AM
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Steve, as you probably know, I've been using routers for a very long time and just cannot understand why anyone would want or need to poke foreign objects into the collet, some routers like the Triton take the cutter all the way in, the rest, fully insert then pull out slightly, the amount is not critical. Just in case you don't believe me, places that sell bearings normally sell "O" rings.

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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 12-04-2007, 08:03 AM
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home depot has a selection of O rings in the plumbing isle Mite find what you need del

del schisler
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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 12-04-2007, 09:41 AM
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Hi Harry

It took you a long time for you to get me to try the skis, right ...

I would like you to try something for me...

Put in a O-Ring in place now chuck up one part of the T & G bit, now make a pass , now take the bit out and switch the cutters out , then put the bit back in the router now make the next pass...but be sure the bit is in and on the O-ring... now take the board to the saw and rip it into two parts, then set in on the work bench,,,both parts of the T & G will line up right on the button will almost no sanding needed to finish the job...

Now put your R & S bit set out and do the same thing.. the set should be the pair type (matched set ) but it can be just the one bit type but the washers and shims must be but back in the same order..

The parts will line up right on the button, many router bits come in pairs or need to be taken down to use both cutters setup ...

And as you know.001 is a big deal when you want to line the two parts up for glueing and doing it by eye just can't be done over and over the same way.

Like you I have been using the router for a long time and I could not see why any one would put rods in the base of the router and hang sticks out for skis then some guy said try it, you will like it and I'm saying the same thing try it you will get it and like it ...


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Quote:
Originally Posted by harrysin
Steve, as you probably know, I've been using routers for a very long time and just cannot understand why anyone would want or need to poke foreign objects into the collet, some routers like the Triton take the cutter all the way in, the rest, fully insert then pull out slightly, the amount is not critical. Just in case you don't believe me, places that sell bearings normally sell "O" rings.



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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 12-04-2007, 02:51 PM
 
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Harry that is also my feeling. This operation is only to reduce the amount of the heat transmitted from the motor to the bit. I tighten bits with the router on its side. after finger tightening the collet, just as you see Bob do on the RWS. As far as using the oring as a height positioner for interchanging bits to attain the same height as in cope and bead bits or T & G, maybe I'm missing something, but I have a plunge router. and what insures that it is set at the same height? Not having a digital height adjuster kinda precludes any implied accuracy. I feel test cuts are the best way to verify the settings. The stacked bit for cope and bead from OP requires height adjustment and testing.
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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 12-04-2007, 05:47 PM
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The facts are this has nothing to do with heat. This is a method which allows you to rapidly set the bit to the same height each and every time. This is the same as some models of routers which provide an insert stick for proper bit positioning when table mounted. The fixed base or plunge mechanism has nothing to do with the way the bit is set inside the shaft. The bit shank always goes into the shaft the same distance which is very useful when working with matched cutter sets. Of course you still verify by eye or with a test cut. This method is simply an improvement over setting by guesswork. Nobody should feel obligation to use this method. This is for people who are looking to reduce adjustments and speed bit changes.

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