Multiple router passes - Router Forums
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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-25-2015, 11:12 PM Thread Starter
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Default Multiple router passes

New to routing, quick question. I am currently using a Freud 1/4" shank, cove and bead bit with 1/8" radius on 3/4" hickory. I don't have a router table. What would be the process for making multiple passes to prevent splintering, or can you only do this with a router table by moving the fence? Thanks in advance.
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-25-2015, 11:24 PM
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Sorry I can't help you but I'm sure the experts will chime in soon . But welcome to the forum

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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-26-2015, 12:07 AM
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Buff, you can lower your bit in 1/4" steps until you reach the full depth of cut. This is easy with the depth stop rod and turret on Bosch routers, a bit more difficult on some other brands.
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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-26-2015, 12:44 AM
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This is a bit with a bearing? Mike is right. Just keep lowering the bit for each pass until you get to the proper depth. A plunge router is best but a fixed base will work just fine. Make your last past take a tiny amount for a very clean cut. Use some sacrificial wood on the cross grain ends where chipout is a problem.

Any reason it has to be hickory? That's pretty hard.

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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-26-2015, 01:05 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks all, it is a bit with a bearing and the old craftsman I am using does have a height adjustment knob in 1/8" increments.
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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-26-2015, 11:04 AM
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Or use an edge guide and adjust the cut inwards on each pass.
I did two things;
-I just looked up the Craftsman edge guide...I was shocked at the p.o.s. that my search found.
Sears.com

Nothing like the old micro adjustable Craftsman edge guide that I have!
VTG Craftsman Edge Guide Contour Finger FOR Router SAW 25173 | eBay
-I checked out this old Router Forum reference...
http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fix...ter-guide.html
Seems like a lot of trouble to go to. With the bazillions of Craftsman routers out there, there must be a simpler edge guide (micro adjustable) solution?
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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-26-2015, 12:36 PM
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Since the bit has a bearing, it would be better to use a straight edge to run the bearing against rather than an edge guide. You could just move the edge guide in steps. I'd draw alignment lines if going that direction. I think depth would be easier to deal with.

If your crapsman router is anything like mine, the 1/8" increments are just lines on a scale. You should be able to get very small increments. I'd ignore the scale and measure how far the bit protrudes. My cman router scale is pretty much a joke.
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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-26-2015, 12:47 PM
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"...it would be better to use a straight edge to run the bearing against rather than an edge guide."
The bearing doesn't make contact until you reach the bit designed depth of cut ...perpendicular to the cut edge...when you use the accessory edge guide. Using the accessory you'd set the vertical ht. to its final position right from the beginning, moving only into the cut as controlled by the edge guide in increments.
But yes, moving a clamped straight edge would accomplish the same thing, basically a fence to run the router base against (Left to right...the router is right side up)
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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-26-2015, 01:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buff94 View Post
New to routing, quick question. I am currently using a Freud 1/4" shank, cove and bead bit with 1/8" radius on 3/4" hickory. I don't have a router table. What would be the process for making multiple passes to prevent splintering, or can you only do this with a router table by moving the fence? Thanks in advance.
You didn't say how wide your board is. I agree with the others that a straight edge could be used to guide the router as the bearing rides against the edge.

Here is how I would go about doing this (see drawing).
Hope this helps.
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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-26-2015, 04:15 PM
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OK, now I'm lost. Isn't the OP talking about edge profiling?
I queried 'cove and bead' and the references I found immediately, with bearings, were all bottom bearings.
To complicate the matter in my mind, I cant relate this bit to the wood profile shown here...
Carbide-Tipped Cove and Bead Bits | Bosch Power Tools
Am I losing it or is that the wrong profile for the bit shown?
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