Incra Miter Gauge Question - Router Forums
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-30-2015, 01:23 AM Thread Starter
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Default Incra Miter Gauge Question

How do you remove the piece on the end of the miter gauge? You know, the little piece that keeps the bar from jumping out of the groove on the table saw.

I am trying to decide if the screw on my miter came boogered up from the factory or if it is permanent. I can't get it to loosen.

I need to remove it if I am going to use the miter gauge on the little DeWalt.
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-30-2015, 06:34 AM
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My Delta miter gauge uses a special stepped washer that's bolted to the bottom of the end of my miter gauge rod. It has a tapered hole in the bottom side to accept a flat head bolt. If the head of the bolt is damaged you may be able to just turn the washer with a pair of pliers to get the screw to loosen. Don't let the pliers slip if you will ever want to use this feature again. If they slip you will likely be facing a careful filing job to clean up the burrs so it will work again. Use a new flat head bolt too.

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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-30-2015, 07:00 AM
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Originally Posted by MT Stringer View Post
How do you remove the piece on the end of the miter gauge? You know, the little piece that keeps the bar from jumping out of the groove on the table saw.

I am trying to decide if the screw on my miter came boogered up from the factory or if it is permanent. I can't get it to loosen.

I need to remove it if I am going to use the miter gauge on the little DeWalt.
Here's a link to an Incra Miter gauge Instruction Manual http://www.incra.com/manuals/miter1000hd_manual.pdf It looks as if the tab is just held on with a flat head screw. The screw may be "rusted" in place; apply penetrant, let it soak and then use an impact driver.
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-30-2015, 07:48 AM
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Mine is held on with a screw. You can see a very good picture in the link Tom posted. It's the second picture down.

Don in Murfreesboro,Tn.

Measure once cut twice and it's still to short.
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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-30-2015, 08:14 AM
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I don't want to be teaching my grandmother to suck eggs but ..........

Just a word of warning here, IF you decide to use an impact driver, ensure that the screw is located above a position on the table that is supported directly to the floor.

Cast materials by their very nature are brittle and WILL, CRACK or BREAK, especially if you hammer on an unsupported section, and so could lead to a very expensive repair / replacement.

It may sound silly but use small hammer gently.

Good Luck
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-30-2015, 08:48 AM
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Took the one off my Incra 1000SE a long time ago. Just a small flat head screw. Kept the parts in case I ever decided I wanted to use them again.
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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-30-2015, 08:57 AM
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I would use a good penetrating oil and let it soak over night. When I say good I mean Kano Kroil. IMO it's the best. Here is a link but you can find it local for a cheaper price. A can of this will last a long time. I use this oil on gun screws that don't want to come out.

Kano Aerokroil Penetrating Oil Bore Cleaning Solvent Aerosol

Don in Murfreesboro,Tn.

Measure once cut twice and it's still to short.
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-30-2015, 09:27 AM
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I don't want to be teaching my grandmother to suck eggs but ..........

Just a word of warning here, IF you decide to use an impact driver, ensure that the screw is located above a position on the table that is supported directly to the floor.

Cast materials by their very nature are brittle and WILL, CRACK or BREAK, especially if you hammer on an unsupported section, and so could lead to a very expensive repair / replacement.

It may sound silly but use small hammer gently.

Good Luck
Good point. I was thinking though about the Dewalt impact driver - I find that they do a pretty good job of breaking free stubborn screws. But the penetrating oil (and Kroil is a good product, have kept a can on the shelf for years) should be given time to work.

Also, a heads up - buy the impact resistant bits when using them in an impact driver, the standard tips WILL shatter and little pieces of metal will be thrown out. I had a broken one sitting on my desk for a while - or at least the pieces of it that I could find.
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-30-2015, 01:05 PM Thread Starter
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UGH! I think the factory boogered the head of the screw. It doesn't look like a standard Phillips style.

I will put some penetrating oil on it and let it soak. Then maybe whack it with a hammer and try the screwdriver again.

I will take a close up photo of it and see what y'all say.

Being able to use it on the little DeWalt saw will make cutting trim and fillers easy.

Thanks for all of the advice. I appreciate it.

Note: I do my whacking on the work table so no worries about damaging the cast iron saw table.
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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 08-30-2015, 03:16 PM Thread Starter
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Got it!

Turns out it wasn't tight, but the screwdriver slot has a casting defect. Luckily for me, I have a multi-function screwdriver with all sorts of bits. I found a square drive that would fit the center portion of the screw and backed it out. Whoopie!

Thanks for the help and suggestions.
Mike
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