For 100 meters???
If it were me and we were talking for underfloor radiant heating lines... I would mark it out > Set your depth of cut on your circular saw. Cut the outline with a circular saw. Cut bend outlines with a kick saw. Cut a few between those boundaries and chip it out with a pry bar. (usually cuts spaced about 1/8"-1/4" apart and all that just pried out)
Why? Chipboard particles and glue are hard on tooling. 100 meters is a ways. For installation of tubing for heating, it is not rocket science. You do not need a precision channel. For an installer, you are paid for the job, not by the hour. The precision of the channel profile does not affect the transfer of heat and it is not something that is seen.
But from what you are describing and the way you are describing it... don't you need to re-look at your design and how radiant systems are installed? I'm no expert on these, but...
You're filling the channels for your PEX tubing for your radiant heat system with screed right? (so a channel for a 12mm PEX is usually bigger than just 13mm...) And above that probably some thin screed board? It's the screed that helps transfer the heat from the tubing and spread that heat transfer out to a full surface... Instead of just where your coils are (directly). The heat transfer of wood or particle board is not as efficient as screed.
Most installers just use tubing guides on top the base (sort of looks like a comb) , the tube laid in the guides to hold them in place, the screed layer (that then surrounds the tubes), then cover that with the floor... not even fooling with cutting channels (where channels are going to weaken an existing structures subfloor).. Do you have a height requirement/limitation where you need to have channels cut into the subfloor?
"Don't worry, I saw this work in a cartoon once."
"Usually learning skills and tooling involves a progression of logical steps."
Last edited by MAFoElffen; 09-03-2015 at 01:54 PM.