Got around to fixing my missing detachable power cord Router from Sears.

It's actually a pretty good unit. 2.5HP, LED lights built into it, Slow Start, etc. Here is what I ended up doing.


Took off the Motor Cover, and was surprised when the power cord pins had detachable electrical connecters. Made this job really easy that I didn't have to solder anything.
Untitled by Ruben Zamora, on Flickr


Here you can see where the factory detachable power cord connected to the 2 pins. I ended up just removing that part, drilling a hold in between the pins and ran the wire in there:

Untitled by Ruben Zamora, on Flickr

Here it is all HOT GLUED up . If the hot glue doesn't hold up, I may just put JB WELD in there or a stronger epoxy.

Untitled by Ruben Zamora, on Flickr


I almost had a big boo boo Was about to put the wires in reverse causing the motor to turn in the opposite direction lol.

Good job Ruben.

" If the hot glue doesn't hold up, I may just put JB WELD in there or a stronger epoxy."
-Ruben


Nononono! Don't do that!! Lots of reasons why you might need to remove the cord, at some point in the future.
I'm sure some of the members have been there, and done something that'll work better. (I'm trying to picture a simple solution myself. Some kind of strain relief sleeve or connector.)
It's alternating current; pretty sure it won't run in reverse(?).

True. Since it will be fixed to a table it wont move much. I think the hot glue will hold it good.

100% silicone should work fine. It shouldn't have much strain hanging on the table.

1. If you had reverse connected the mains lead, the router would still operate in the same direction of rotation. To reverse the motor, you would have had to swap the connections to the brush holders which would reverse the instantaneous magnetic field of the armature relative to the fixed winding (stator or field winding).

2. The cable used appears to be a two conductor cable, so no earth. Standard with double insulated tools, but using hot melt glue to fill the opening where the plug was would not constitute double insulation.

3. You need to make sure that you have physically isolated the hot melt from the brush areas of the machine, as even extremely mild brush arcing is throwing hot conductive carbon particles into the body of the tool. The manufacturer ensures that these particles cannot burn into other components, but they can burn into hot melt and slowly form conductive bridges that transmit electricity either across the hot melt face or to the outside of the machine.

4. If you were to use a silicon compound instead of hot melt as suggested by Mike, you need to be selective about the variety of compound as many are acid based, and could cause corrosion issues inside the machine. The acid based ones tend to smell like vinegar, but some compounds that are acid based don't have the vinegar odour.

I don't know if this would work for you project, but I have used this stuff in the past when replacing bilge pumps on boats I have had. The intake connections for some pumps are below the water line (thru the hull) to pump water to live wells. This is for salt water applications as well as fresh water.

Seals good, strong, yet remains pliable.
http://www.amazon.com/3M-Marine-Adhe.../dp/B0000AY6DG