thin plank making success - Router Forums
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-05-2015, 06:08 AM Thread Starter
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Default thin plank making success

a lot of you know I've been seaerching for a cheap way to make thin flat pieces of wood. I had some success with a home made router sled.
I tried a couple different methods of adjusting the platen height so I could get the thickness i wanted (around 8mm, give or take a bit).
My mark three version is quite successful.

Remember, these pics are of something cobbled together from parts in the garage, its not pretty!

First, the base, this shows the slots I used on the mark two, trying to slide the inner surface closer to the router using threaded rod across the sides to squeeze the platen in place,


This time, i reversed the thinking. instead of raising the inner plate, I put the plate on four screw adjusters, and now the plate stays still and the sled base moves up and down.
heres the four screws, once held a bed head board in place, salvaged from an old bed base. Using old T nuts and hot glue to hold the nuts in place

Heres the base in its normal position with the screws showing.


Next is the plate, standing ready to be lowered onto the adjusting screws.


this is the thing, ready to go



Now, all I have to do is adjust each screw in turn to get the exact height I want from the top edge that the router sled slides along.

i can get a 10" x 8" piece of beech routed to my preferred 7mm thickness, with less than a half mm variation between highest and lowest.

Once something wears out, i will make a nicer looking replacement.
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Last edited by sunnybob; 10-05-2015 at 06:12 AM.
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-05-2015, 06:15 AM
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that's some kind o slick Bob...
KUDOS to your engineering...
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This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-05-2015, 09:02 AM
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I have a bunch of jigs like that that haven't worn out yet. They don't have to be pretty. They just have to get the job done.
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Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-05-2015, 12:26 PM
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Many thanks for that jig! Great idea. I have several pieces in the future plans that will need planing. Never thought of a jig with height adjustment. I think it will work.

John T.
Life is like water-skiing; if you slow down, you go down.
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-05-2015, 01:38 PM Thread Starter
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It needs a better scale to measure the distance. At the moment I'm using a vernier gauge to measure down from the skid to each corner in turn, but that means i have to go round twice as the table tilts slightly during adjustments. if I set up a row of marks 1mm apart down from the top downwards at each adjusting point, it will speed things up. Also need a larger end cutter, i only have a 16mm, but it is only a 1/4" router, so I might not find a wider one.

I just realised I can even make tapers and wedges now. Cant think of a use yet, but hey, if I do, I can.

Now I need to find a way of rounding over edges on the finished boxes. At the moment my smallest round over cutter wont do a half circle on a 6mm edge. When rounding both sides, I end up with an arch with a central ridge.
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-05-2015, 01:56 PM
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You might be able to find a 6mm bull nose bit Bob. A 1/4" would be close at about 6.35mm I think it works out to.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-05-2015, 02:24 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cherryville Chuck View Post
You might be able to find a 6mm bull nose bit Bob. A 1/4" would be close at about 6.35mm I think it works out to.
I'm off to ebay now.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-05-2015, 02:27 PM Thread Starter
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just checked out a bull nose, but thats not what I want.

I need a half cutter so i can (for example) go all around the inside of a box, and even round the 90 degree joins.
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-05-2015, 07:28 PM
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Not sure if I understand what you want but a round over bit won't go all the way into a corner because of the bearing if it's preassembled. To get the full profile all the way in you would have to rout preassembly.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 10-06-2015, 01:23 AM Thread Starter
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To get the rounded edge look I want, I would have to fully round all of the sides, then route grooves for them to fit, and then 45 degree angle the sides so the round followed naturally.
Thats way too much work for my little boxes.
i want to assemble the open top box, then run a bearing guided bit all around just the inside of the opening.
Heres one of my attempts so you can see what I'm trying to do

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