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post #1 of 31 (permalink) Old 10-09-2015, 11:00 AM Thread Starter
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Anybody now how to remove hot melt glue painlessly?

My adjustable router thicknesser is working well, but I have to glue the small pieces to the board as they are too thin for clamps.
I can use a scraper to get them off the board afterwards, but then its a pain having to pick dozens of bits off the finished piece.
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post #2 of 31 (permalink) Old 10-09-2015, 11:11 AM
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Bob,

A heat gun might soften it up, but still a lot of scraping.

You could put glue on the edge of the board, and then cut or joint of sand it off?

Or you could get rid of the glue all together and use a cam or wedge system to hold the wood in place. I brad nail down blocks of wood for clamps, but the wedge system reduces the risk of hitting a steel nail with the cutter.

http://www.routerforums.com/general-...tml#post140704

>>>>>I can't remember who's wedge setup this is<<<<<<
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post #3 of 31 (permalink) Old 10-09-2015, 11:11 AM
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Experiment by placing news print over the area and ironing it.

Try this first in an inconspicuous area or on a piece of scrap.

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post #4 of 31 (permalink) Old 10-09-2015, 11:30 AM Thread Starter
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Doug, wedges wont work. I'm cutting boards down to 5mm thick (about 5/16ths") Also the router sled has to move over the entire workpiece.
I'm laying the pieces flat, and gluing the edges of the pieces to the base board for routing. It works really well. But when I remove the piece, its only 5mm thick, but all the edges have glue on them.
Its a nuisance picking it all off with my fingernails, rather than a serious issue, I just wondered if anybody had found an easy way.

Phillip, the edges are just too thin for ironing. Dont want to use any heat as that will spread the glue to the flat surfaces.
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post #5 of 31 (permalink) Old 10-09-2015, 12:45 PM
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Have you considered dabs of glue on the face of the part? - then you would have to just pry the part off the base once you've finished routing.

As far as the wedge clamps, the straight pieces next to the wood that you're planning could be a little thinner than the finished parts and the wedges could be thicker, unless the concern is that the part lifts up while you're routing. Or, would it be too much hassle to clamp one side, rout half way, stop and move the clamps and then finish the second half?
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post #6 of 31 (permalink) Old 10-09-2015, 12:54 PM
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Bob...

try a card scrapper.. Super-Hard Curved Scraper Sets - Lee Valley Tools

if you don't have access to something like those, try burnishing a razor blade. I've found them to work very
well, especially in very tight places.


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post #7 of 31 (permalink) Old 10-09-2015, 01:00 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomp913 View Post
Have you considered dabs of glue on the face of the part? - then you would have to just pry the part off the base once you've finished routing.

As far as the wedge clamps, the straight pieces next to the wood that you're planning could be a little thinner than the finished parts and the wedges could be thicker, unless the concern is that the part lifts up while you're routing. Or, would it be too much hassle to clamp one side, rout half way, stop and move the clamps and then finish the second half?
no good, the piece is laid flat to the table. Glue underneath would make the surface uneven.

The router will lift a piece and chew it up it isnt glued almost all the way around the edges.
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post #8 of 31 (permalink) Old 10-09-2015, 01:06 PM Thread Starter
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Bill, interesting, I shall have to try a reverse scraper. Because the glue is on the edge of the piece, I cant make a forward push with the scraper because it just cuts its way into the grain. maybe a reverse will work. I'll try tomorrow, its already 8pm here, I'm done for the day.
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post #9 of 31 (permalink) Old 10-09-2015, 01:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sunnybob View Post
no good, the piece is laid flat to the table. Glue underneath would make the surface uneven.

The router will lift a piece and chew it up it isnt glued almost all the way around the edges.
I went back and looked at the photos in your original posting after I answered, and can see the glue around the parts now - and that you really pack the pieces in there to maximize production. I wonder if there's a way to come up with some kind of spring-loaded device hanging under the sled to keep downward pressure on the parts while you're routing?
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post #10 of 31 (permalink) Old 10-09-2015, 02:05 PM
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What about using a shop vac to hold it down? You would have to have some holes with nothing over them so some air goes through to keep from overheating the vac. Gluing some 80 grit sandpaper to the table would help keep from sliding sideways then the vacuum would only have to hold it down.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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