Routing door lip/finger grip on rails and stiles - Router Forums
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-20-2015, 05:02 AM Thread Starter
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Default Routing door lip/finger grip on rails and stiles

Hello, my first post.

I am making a door for a kitchen cabinet.

My question is, when do I rout the door lip/finger grip on the outside edge of the door?

Should I rout the door lip/finger grip on the rails and stiles prior to assembling of the door, or assemble the door, and rout all four sides on the completed door.

Thanks in advance for any and all replies.

Mike
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-20-2015, 06:44 AM
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I think you should route the profile before assembly. If you do it after you will have end grain at each corner that will chip out easily.
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-20-2015, 07:45 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Wayne, that was the main concern I had.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-20-2015, 08:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bbatman View Post
Hello, my first post.

I am making a door for a kitchen cabinet.

My question is, when do I rout the door lip/finger grip on the outside edge of the door?

Should I rout the door lip/finger grip on the rails and stiles prior to assembling of the door, or assemble the door, and rout all four sides on the completed door.

Thanks in advance for any and all replies.

Mike
before in case of tear out..

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-20-2015, 08:48 AM
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Two other considerations. The smaller pieces are probably going to be easier to handle than a whole door. And if something should go wrong you only lose the one piece, not the whole door.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-20-2015, 09:25 AM
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if you have to route the finger grip afterwards rout only the long grain...

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-20-2015, 09:53 AM
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routing before assembly makes it difficult to edge the end of the styles. I always rout the edges of the completed door. It's much easier to handle the door. Never had any problem with tear out.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-20-2015, 10:07 AM
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I like a small round over on the outside (facing) edge) of the door and a stopped finger groove cut with a cove bit on the back edge. A little hard to see in this photo, but it's on the edge just below the center rail. On the lower cabinets, I've sometimes cut the finger hold on the top edge as an alternate to the edge, the upper cabinets varies from the bottom edge and the side at the lower part of the door, probably 3 - 4" long depending on the door.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-20-2015, 10:17 AM
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I've done the same as Tom where I only put the finger grip on the bottom middle of the drawers and just the top rail or short section of the stile.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 10-20-2015, 10:22 AM
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I always make the stiles and rails a little larger than the finished width and height. This way when I clamp them together I don't have to worry about clamp marks on the wood. It is then easy and quick to run them through the table saw for the exact dimention that I want. I don't try to run the door through a router table if it is a large door. I hand hold the router. If I'm worried about tearout a small sacrificial piece of wood can be clamped to the door.
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