Cutting rails, table or rat - Router Forums
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-30-2015, 03:49 AM Thread Starter
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Default Cutting rails, table or rat

Hi all

Looking for your experience on cutting rails for doors, I have two options:

Use my router table and buy/make a sled or buy a woodrat which alleviates the need for a sled and offers plenty of other options for cutting dovetails etc.

With the table I move the wood past the cutter and with the woodrat I would pull the cutter past the wood, which it is claimed gives a cleaner more accurate cut, your thoughts please.

all the best Roy
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-30-2015, 04:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spectric View Post
Hi all

Looking for your experience on cutting rails for doors, I have two options:

Use my router table and buy/make a sled or buy a woodrat which alleviates the need for a sled and offers plenty of other options for cutting dovetails etc.

With the table I move the wood past the cutter and with the woodrat I would pull the cutter past the wood, which it is claimed gives a cleaner more accurate cut, your thoughts please.

all the best Roy
you don't need a sled on an RT to cut your rails and stiles....
you will need feather boards and a push stick or a shop made grrr-ripper...
as far as the claim goes... I believe it to be a stretch...
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-30-2015, 06:51 AM
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Assuming that you are talking about the ends of the rails and not the edge. Agree with stick no need for anything fancy but be sure that you use feather boards and a miter gauge. I don't like using a sled because the thickness of the sled adds another point of error.

Last edited by mgmine; 10-30-2015 at 09:48 AM.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-30-2015, 07:36 AM
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Agree with all they said. Below a youtube video that I hope it helps. Good Job!
Sid.

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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-30-2015, 08:57 AM
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I haven't made any cab doors in a couple 3 yrs but square cut stile and rail are easily done on the TS using a standard miter gauge with some simple home made mods. For end cuts on profiled stiles and rails on the RT, I used a squared and butted piece of 6"X6" 6/4 sugar pine as a backstop I was happy with the results.

I bought and tried using one of those material grabbing miter gauges (pic'd below) shortly after building the RT back in the late 90s. I was never satisfied with the results, if there was any hook or cup at all in the mat and it was face down the handle would rise up out of the track.

If you're going to be building lots of doors over an extended time frame and the work is going to pay for the tool do it, however if not, with a simple block of wood I feel like I have adequate control and quality over the material and cut.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-30-2015, 12:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stick486 View Post
you don't need a sled on an RT to cut your rails and stiles....
you will need feather boards and a push stick or a shop made grrr-ripper...
as far as the claim goes... I believe it to be a stretch...
Welcome back Stick, we missed you.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-30-2015, 01:36 PM
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Like Ron all I use is a squared block (of ply or Mdf in my case) which I hold my work against and slide them along my router table fence. Quick, easy, simple, and cheap.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-30-2015, 02:57 PM
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I made a home made guide that rides against the fence, not the T track. Line everything up and push it past the cutter.

There are several commercially available that perform the same task.

Here are some pics.

Hope this helps.
Mike
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-30-2015, 05:22 PM Thread Starter
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Hi all

Thanks for the info, I will give the block of wood on the router table a go and save myself some cash on not buying sled etc. My table saw is probably not the best for this sort of work, a Scheppach Tisa 5 which I do regret buying.

thanks Roy
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-30-2015, 07:41 PM
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Regarding the table, you might consider making a new fence you can clamp at the sides of the table. As long as the fence is straight it does not matter where or how it is placed or clamped. If you decide to get creative you could modify the face of the fence to accept thin wooden inserts, push them through a raised bit or raise the bit through the insert and have a near perfect profile for future referencing of said bit.

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