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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-20-2008, 08:50 AM Thread Starter
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Default Vertical Raised Panel Question

So I'm about to try out my newest set of bits. I bought a rail/stile bit set and a vertical panel bit from Rockler. I only have a 1 3/4HP Porter Cable router and didn't think it could handle a horizontal bit.

I know a lot of the horizontal bits have a back-cutter. I figure I can use a rabbeting bit for the same effect on the back of the panel to keep it flush with the front of the door frame, but what if I just plane the panels down an extra 1/8" (or whatever the depth is needed to keep them flush). I figure I can control the width of the edge of the panel by how many passes I make with the vertical bit. I will plane them first to be sure they don't tip over in the planer.

Any experience with this method? I just thought it would be quicker to run each panel through the planer a couple of extra times instead of rabbeting all 4 sides of each panel.

EDIT: while we're at it, what speed should I run the bit at? It's still pretty big.
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?O...Select=Details

Door Set:
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?O...Select=Details

Last edited by rprice54; 05-20-2008 at 11:03 AM.
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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-20-2008, 10:10 AM
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Hi rprice54

This just my 2 cents

That way will work fine but you may just want to use a rabbit bit, it's quicker than the planner not to talk about the ware and tare on the planner blades, they are not cheap and easy to switch out like a router bit.

Vert. bit speed 12,000 rpm. make 2 or 3 passes, the last one would only be 1/32" cut or less.
S & R bit set. 12,000 rpm's also,,,but it can be done well in one pass.

But use a full size feather board for the R & S bits, that's to say a 2 x 4 stock clamped at each end of the router table fence, that you ran in the planner/jointer to get it true and squar and flat... this will keep your fingers out of the way of the bits plus hold the stock down to the top..

Here's one more small tip, use wide stock then rip it to size ( 2 7/16" the norm) after you have both ends/sides done..

They make and sell a back cutter bit just for the vert bits but the rabbit will work fine ..

Undercutter Bits
#8679 $18.00,,,NOTE they cut 5/8" deep..unlike the normal rabbit bit,unless you have one of the high end rabbit bit sets that you can switch the bearing on...to get the 5/8" deep cut...
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops...ter_bits2.html

========


Quote:
Originally Posted by rprice54
So I'm about to try out my newest set of bits. I bought a rail/style bit set and a vertical panel bit from Rockler. I only have a 1 3/4HP Porter Cable router and didn't think it could handle a horizontal bit.

I know a lot of the horizontal bits have a back-cutter. I figure I can use a rabbeting bit for the same effect on the back of the panel to keep it flush with the front of the door frame, but what if I just plane the panels down an extra 1/8" (or whatever the depth is needed to keep them flush). I figure I can control the width of the edge of the panel by how many passes I make with the vertical bit. I will plane them first to be sure they don't tip over in the planer.

Any experience with this method? I just thought it would be quicker to run each panel through the planer a couple of extra times instead of rabbeting all 4 sides of each panel.

EDIT: while we're at it, what speed should I run the bit at? It's still pretty big.
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?O...Select=Details

Door Set:
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?O...Select=Details



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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-20-2008, 10:21 AM Thread Starter
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I had planned on 2" for the doors but have plenty of stock. I'll have to play with it on sketchup to see how it looks. Would mean smaller panels... possibly able to make out of a single board instead of glue-up.
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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-20-2008, 10:52 AM
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Hi rprice54

2" will work but it makes it hard to get it right, cutting the boards to size.

2 7/16" makes it easy...most R & S bits cut 7/16" deep,but you should check your bit set 1st., the 7/16" on each end of the board is lost in the joint so to speak..

Let's say you want a door that's 10" x 14" when your done,, the rails would be cut 6" long and the stile would be cut to 14" long, as you can see it's easy to get it just right every time with almost no math...

Just a note about glue ups, it's best if the panel is going to be 6" wide or bigger, most woods will cup over time and deform the door...(bowed door) it was once a tree and always wants to go back to that state.


========

Quote:
Originally Posted by rprice54
I had planned on 2" for the doors but have plenty of stock. I'll have to play with it on sketchup to see how it looks. Would mean smaller panels... possibly able to make out of a single board instead of glue-up.



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Last edited by bobj3; 05-20-2008 at 10:58 AM.
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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-20-2008, 11:19 AM Thread Starter
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I had planned on making the rails longer to accomodate the joint, but I think I like the look of bigger frames on the doors anyways.

We have several large panels in our kitchen that have remained stable over years of use/sunlight/seasons. I think part of it is how you dry it, mill it, and finish it (ie quickly after milling). Some warping may be inevitable but in a stable environment I haven't seen too much movement with some of my larger panels in the past. These will be about 10" wide.

Last edited by rprice54; 05-20-2008 at 11:22 AM.
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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-20-2008, 11:28 AM
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Hi rprice54

You many want to check out the links below
http://www.woodshopdemos.com/smfld-6.htm
http://www.woodshopdemos.com/kitc-5.htm
http://www.woodshopdemos.com/jig-1.htm

http://www.woodshopdemos.com/menu2.htm

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Last edited by bobj3; 05-20-2008 at 02:14 PM.
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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-20-2008, 12:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rprice54
So I'm about to try out my newest set of bits. I bought a rail/stile bit set and a vertical panel bit from Rockler. I only have a 1 3/4HP Porter Cable router and didn't think it could handle a horizontal bit.

I know a lot of the horizontal bits have a back-cutter. I figure I can use a rabbeting bit for the same effect on the back of the panel to keep it flush with the front of the door frame, but what if I just plane the panels down an extra 1/8" (or whatever the depth is needed to keep them flush). I figure I can control the width of the edge of the panel by how many passes I make with the vertical bit. I will plane them first to be sure they don't tip over in the planer.

Any experience with this method? I just thought it would be quicker to run each panel through the planer a couple of extra times instead of rabbeting all 4 sides of each panel.

EDIT: while we're at it, what speed should I run the bit at? It's still pretty big.
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?O...Select=Details

Door Set:
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?O...Select=Details
It looks like that vertical bit is for making a raised panel in 3/4" stock with a 1/4" tongue. This will make the panel proud of the frame in the front and recessed in back which is perfectly acceptable unless you are running the finished doors through a drum sander. If you reduce the panel thickness or set the fence to leave a 3/8" tongue with the intent of making a separate back cut you will reduce the amount of profile on the face to the point that it may not look correct.
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post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-20-2008, 12:10 PM Thread Starter
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thanks for all the links, I can't wait to go through some of that stuff.

re: panel thickness, that's what I need to test and find out- to see if I can get a good profile on a 5/8 board.

re: tall fence, I have a setup I used for making raised panels on my tablesaw for my entertainment center, but I like the look of that jig, I'll have to look into it.

Thanks again for all the info, now I need to find out what speeds 1-2-3-4 on my porter cable router actually mean in RPM, I think I've seen it around here before.
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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-20-2008, 05:42 PM
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Hi RP,

I would probably run it a speed that "sounds" correct. I'm not familar with PC routers but I'd say use speeds 1 or 2. This of course would be for the item #21487. If for item #21130, max speed should be just fine.

Hope this helps.

Ken

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post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old 05-20-2008, 07:08 PM
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Hi rprice

I have many Porter Cable routers and I don't use the speed control numbers ,that's to say I always start with the number 1 and move up to what the router and the bit tells me what it wants to have,, they all have a voice and will tell you what they want or need ... one number for Oak,Cherry will not be the same for pine or the size of the bit you are using... speed feed comes in to play all the time and the router will tell you I'm going to burn/chip out your wood if you don't slow me down or turn me a bit faster .. always make a test pass b/4 you run the job...


==========

==========




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