through vs blind dovetails - Router Forums
 
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 02-26-2005, 07:55 PM Thread Starter
 
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Default through vs blind dovetails

I bouhgt a rockler dovetail jig, looks simple enough to use however it appears to be for blind dovetails.

What's the difference in the jig for through vs blind joints??

Do I need to buy another comb for through dovetails??

TIF

Wayne
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 02-26-2005, 09:52 PM
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The answer is yes Wayne. It takes a different template for the through dovetails. Price out the additional template, add it to what you spent and see if it would be cheaper to return what you bought and buy the set with both included. Make sure when you load your board to be dovetailed that you have a board of equal thickness on the opposite edge of the clamp. This is true of both the front and top clamps. You need the support so the clamp applies even pressure.

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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 03-01-2005, 01:41 PM
 
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mike

here is a question along the same lines of what you just mentioned, i have a dovetail jig as well but i am very unclear on how the correct set up should be. i realize that you need to off set one of the boards so the teeth will lock into place but how far do you offset them and which board do you move? the vertical board or the board that lays on top. what is the best way to make sure the wood is in the jig clamps perfectly, as in not at an angle but a true 90????? yo usee what im getting at???

shawn
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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 03-01-2005, 09:22 PM
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Shawn, this is really tough for me to answer since all the different brands of jigs are set up differently. Dovetails are not my strong suit either. In general the amount of your offset should equal the diameter of your dovetail bit. This is assuming you are going for equal size, equal spaced dovetails. Your jig should have a 90 degree reference mark or guide of some kind on it. The vertical board should be a good enough reference to square off of. I guess for anyone to give you the correct answer they will need to know the brand of jig you have. If you are not sure, post a photo of it. Sorry I can't be of more help on this one.

Mike
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 03-02-2005, 01:36 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reds_21
mike

here is a question along the same lines of what you just mentioned, i have a dovetail jig as well but i am very unclear on how the correct set up should be. i realize that you need to off set one of the boards so the teeth will lock into place but how far do you offset them and which board do you move? the vertical board or the board that lays on top. what is the best way to make sure the wood is in the jig clamps perfectly, as in not at an angle but a true 90????? yo usee what im getting at???

shawn
The offset should be nearly equal to the space between the teeth on the comb provided that the spaces between the teeth, and the thickness of the teeth are the same. Typically, a jig with 7/16" spaces between the teeth on the comb is designed for a 1/2" dovetail bit, and a 7/16" guide collar. This should give you a dovetail that is 1/2" wide on the bottom, and 3/8" wide at the top. The width of your cut in the center of the dovetail would therefore be 7/16" The vertical board should be offset toward the center of the jig 7/16" from the one that mounts horizontal in the jig. If you're aligning your boards on the left side of the jig, the vertical one should be offset to the right. Reverse if you're using the right side of your jig. I hope this helps. It made sense in my head when I started, (I promise)!!
Jeff

Last edited by jeff12002; 03-02-2005 at 01:53 PM. Reason: I missed something in my original response
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