How can I make this post cap? - Router Forums
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-28-2016, 04:02 PM Thread Starter
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Default How can I make this post cap?

Hey guys. I'd like to make my own post caps and eventually mount some LED's in them. These will be going on 6X6 posts. I'd like them to look like this:



The bottom wrap around trim I will purchase, but I'd like to make the top cap piece. Any idea how to do this? The largest bit I have is a 3-1/2" for doing raised panel cabinets.
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-28-2016, 06:30 PM
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Hey, Stlb5; welcome!
Buy one, make a/some mould(s), cast the rest with fibreglass?
Just a thought.
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-28-2016, 06:45 PM
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Welcome to the forum.

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Enjoy the knowledge of others that can be found within.

ĎMembers are requested to add a first name in their profile as we are a very friendly bunch here'.
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-28-2016, 07:27 PM
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For doing just the top piece, I see a raised panel bit followed by a cove bit of just the right size. Careful setting up of the router table with each bit and a fixture to hold the piece perfectly square to the fence as you pass it through. It's going to take a few pieces of dimensioned scrap to get the settings right. Of course, a shaper could do it too, but with similar set up difficulties.

Cutting the stock the correct width and making two passes, then cutting into squares and making the other two passes would at least make part of the job a little safer. Several feather boards needed for this.

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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-28-2016, 07:27 PM
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welcome to the forum oh nameless person...

panel bit...
Freud Tools | 3-1/2" (Dia.) Raised Panel Bit (Quadra-Cut)

round over or half round bit to match the profile......

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and TaxidermyĒ
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-28-2016, 08:10 PM
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Assuming that you have a table saw - Cut the edges of the top surface on the table saw, blade height set to the intersection of the vertical and tapered surfaces. Using a high auxiliary fence, set the blade to the correct height/angle and move the fence until the corner of the blade intersects the edge of the first cut - this will give you the flat top and the bevel down to the edge. The final edge could be done on a router table using a round-over bit set deep to give a vertical edge - I'm assuming that the purchased molding is what's shown below that.
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-28-2016, 08:43 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks everyone, that's about what I was thinking, but with the round over bit, it seems like it would have to be upside down from the bits I have to use a table.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-28-2016, 09:46 PM
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The round over bit would be mounted in the router table, with the bit projecting enough to give you the required step from the tapered surface and the OD of the bearing flush with the face of the fence - the fence would then limit the depth of cut into the part. You may have to take several passes to remove the amount of material needed.
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-28-2016, 09:49 PM Thread Starter
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I see what you're saying, but assuming I'm using a 2X, I'm not sure I can get the bit that high. I'll try and mock it up.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-28-2016, 11:24 PM
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I would do like Tom says on the table saw. And the bottom edge on the router table first pass with the piece vertical and second pass with the piece laying flat on the table, that should give you a half round bull nose.
Then do the moldings on the router table too.
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