leveling an oak trunk section for anvil base - Router Forums
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-01-2016, 09:38 AM Thread Starter
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Question leveling an oak trunk section for anvil base

I am looking for suggestions on how to level the ends of a 28" diameter x 30" long section of an oak tree trunk. I intend to use this for my Trenton anvil.

I asked the tree service guys if they would cut me a 32" section from an old oak tree that fell in a storm. The tree service guys cut it with a 40" bar chain saw, by eye, so both ends are sloped and the are not parallel with each other. I estimate it weighs around 500#, and it was a bear to get home. It will have to have the ends leveled where it sits.

I was thinking of some kind of sled and rails to mount my router, then run the sled back and forth across the face of the stump.

I asked a local saw mill if they could cut and true up the ends for me. They said sure, but setting up and starting up their saw would be a couple hundred dollars!

Before I start I was hoping for some ideas.

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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-01-2016, 09:53 AM
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This may be overkill for a one-time project, but it may give you ideas for something a little less involved that would work for you.

Router Jig Turns Stumps into Beautiful Side Tables - Fine Woodworking Article
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-01-2016, 06:30 PM
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You want a router sled jig. They are pretty easy to make. Use a 3/4" or larger mortise bit but I've made do with 1/2", just took longer. Here's an example.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-01-2016, 06:33 PM
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How about an Alaska Mill? Reasonably inexpensive if you already have access to a (sharp!) chainsaw.

Mind you, you'd still need that 30" bar...will the tree guys come back and do it for you? Seems like their first effort was a little half hearted...
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-01-2016, 08:31 PM
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I would do like Phil shows, Easy to make a frame and sled out of dimension lumber/ plywood and then cut some wedges to make the block sit on the garage floor plumb. The weight will keep it from moving while you flatten the top. Then turn it upside down and do the other end.
A plunge router with a mortising bit should work good.

The toughest part will be turning it over. Get some young husky guys with a PeeVee to help.

Be sure to check your concrete floor for slope and take that into consideration.

If you are going to set it up on a dirt floor, you can level it in a sand bed that is how my dad did his in his welding/blacksmith shop

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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-01-2016, 08:42 PM
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Frank I don't know if you have a chainsaw and with a long enough bar but there is a relatively quick way to use one to get acceptable results with one since you only need flat at both ends and not smooth. If you build a crude square frame that is just slightly shorter than the block then you can use the rails to set the saw blade on. Think foot stool with no top on it yet. If you don't have that then Tom's link to Nick Offerman's article is basically the way to go. You would still need to build the topless footstool but then you would run the router sled across the rails instead.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-01-2016, 09:02 PM Thread Starter
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Thumbs up thanks for the quick feedback

i appreciate everyones input. i have enough dimensional lumber around to use the fww plans as a starting point.

this is going to be for my anvil in my metalworking/blacksmith shop.

i will post some pictures of what i end up with if i have enough posts by then.

thanks, again
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 05-01-2016, 09:20 PM
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@OldGuy54 ...
there are several threads here on flattening stumps w/ lots of how to's and suggestions in them...

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