How to create a strait edge for joining - Router Forums
 3Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-04-2016, 10:38 AM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Everend's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Country: United States
First Name: Everend
Posts: 384
 
Default How to create a strait edge for joining

I'm making two doors out of cedar 2x6 stacked horizontally. I stacked and dried the wood for several weeks and run each of board through the thickness planer. Now I'm trying to get straight edges so I set my router up as a jointer. It works for smoothing the edges but it's not straightening them. The split fence is offset by the thickness of a few fender washers. Boards range from 45"-52" the fence is 33" What am I doing wrong?

My first attempt was using a single feather board holding it to the fence. That gave it a good 90° edge but it's not straight down the length of the board.
Next thought was to add more feather boards so I made two more, but that still doesn't give me a strait board. Next step is to try to make a longer fence.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	2016-05-03 15.03.41.jpg
Views:	170
Size:	623.5 KB
ID:	208137  

Click image for larger version

Name:	2016-05-04 10.32.56.jpg
Views:	154
Size:	702.1 KB
ID:	208145  

Everend is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-04-2016, 10:44 AM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Everend's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Country: United States
First Name: Everend
Posts: 384
 
Default

After preparing all the boards I'll use the router to cut a tongue and groove in each and chamfer each board's before glueing them up. Once glued up I'll cut the door to width, chamfer the freshly cut end grain edges and sand down before finishing.
I gave the customer a bunch of sample cuttings of cedar with every finish I had in my shop, they choose linseed oil. Since then I've read that it's not a great option since sometimes it doesn't ever dry. I'm thinking about switching finishes to something that is sure to dry. Any suggestions?
Everend is offline  
post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-04-2016, 12:11 PM
Registered User
 
Nickp's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Country: United States
First Name: Nick
Posts: 4,264
 
Default

What's happening is the radius of the bend in the board is greater than the length of the fence. If you're using the router to "straighten" the board you will need a longer fence...one that will keep the board in the proper registration longer as you pass the bit.

Maybe the table saw might be the better approach to straighten the board first and then clean it up with the router...?

Nick

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
GIVE A MAN A FISH and you feed him for a day.
TEACH HIM HOW TO FISH and you feed him for his life time.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Nickp is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-04-2016, 12:51 PM
Forum Contributor
 
Stick486's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Country: United States
First Name: Stick
Posts: 28,860
 
Default

or....
Attached Files
File Type: pdf R4 JOINER SUBSTITUTE.pdf (34.4 KB, 133 views)

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
Stick486 is offline  
post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-04-2016, 02:09 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Everend's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Country: United States
First Name: Everend
Posts: 384
 
Default

Thanks Nickp & Stick. based on your suggestions here is the solution. Rip a straight edge with circular saw, then cut the other edge parallel with the table saw.

Too bad I didn't ask this question before wasting 2 days getting the router table setup (building the new router fence, wiring up a switch on the table, making three feather boards, buying 2" strait bit, making two different styles of push blocks). Granted these were all things on my todo list anyway but I need to get paid and making things for my shop doesn't pay the bills directly.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	2016-05-04 13.32.01.jpg
Views:	60
Size:	553.9 KB
ID:	208273  

Click image for larger version

Name:	2016-05-04 14.00.27.jpg
Views:	78
Size:	770.8 KB
ID:	208281  

Rogerdodge likes this.
Everend is offline  
post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-05-2016, 07:54 AM
Contributor of the Month
 
OPG3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Country: United States
First Name: Otis
Posts: 1,985
 
Default

Everend, this is an often occurrence...
On the table saw, place something BETWEEN your workpiece and your fence.
Said "sandwiched piece" should have toggle clamps to maintain snug between both sliding parts.
MAKE CERTAIN NOTHING BUT THE WORKPIECE IS GOING TO BE CUT!
Depending on your Router Table setup - this same idea can be applied there, as well!

Otis Guillebeau from Auburn, Georgia

OPG3

Tweak everything!
OPG3 is offline  
post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-05-2016, 08:55 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Country: Mexico
First Name: Joseph Anthony
Posts: 644
 
Thumbs up

Quote:
Originally Posted by Everend View Post
I'm making two doors out of cedar 2x6 stacked horizontally. I stacked and dried the wood for several weeks and run each of board through the thickness planer. Now I'm trying to get straight edges so I set my router up as a jointer. It works for smoothing the edges but it's not straightening them. The split fence is offset by the thickness of a few fender washers. Boards range from 45"-52" the fence is 33" What am I doing wrong?

My first attempt was using a single feather board holding it to the fence. That gave it a good 90° edge but it's not straight down the length of the board.
Next thought was to add more feather boards so I made two more, but that still doesn't give me a strait board. Next step is to try to make a longer fence.
I like those feather boards, well made.
cocobolo1 likes this.

Cheers.

Joe
RÖENTGEEP is offline  
post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-05-2016, 09:05 AM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Everend's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Country: United States
First Name: Everend
Posts: 384
 
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by OPG3 View Post
Everend, this is an often occurrence...
On the table saw, place something BETWEEN your workpiece and your fence.
Said "sandwiched piece" should have toggle clamps to maintain snug between both sliding parts.
MAKE CERTAIN NOTHING BUT THE WORKPIECE IS GOING TO BE CUT!
Depending on your Router Table setup - this same idea can be applied there, as well!
I don't get it. Are you talking about a long sacrificial fence?
Everend is offline  
post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-05-2016, 09:11 AM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Everend's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Country: United States
First Name: Everend
Posts: 384
 
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by RÖENTGEEP View Post
I like those feather boards, well made.
Thanks, one problem I still have with them is the screw on the wing nut turns as I tighten the wingnut to force the splines of the oak out to lock the miter bar in place.
I got the idea of using a screw in a countersunk hole from the Bench Dog featherboard I have. On theirs the screw has a rib/spline on the cone portion of the head to keep it from spinning. I don't know how to add splines to the head of the screw. I thought of drilling a needle thin hole and putting a needle in there. Maybe epoxy a needle into the kerf of the flat head? Any ideas how to improve this design?
Everend is offline  
post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 05-05-2016, 09:18 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Country: Mexico
First Name: Joseph Anthony
Posts: 644
 
Lightbulb

Quote:
Originally Posted by Everend View Post
Thanks, one problem I still have with them is the screw on the wing nut turns as I tighten the wingnut to force the splines of the oak out to lock the miter bar in place.
I got the idea of using a screw in a countersunk hole from the Bench Dog featherboard I have. On theirs the screw has a rib/spline on the cone portion of the head to keep it from spinning. I don't know how to add splines to the head of the screw. I thought of drilling a needle thin hole and putting a needle in there. Maybe epoxy a needle into the kerf of the flat head? Any ideas how to improve this design?
Mmmmmmmm. I put a pair of tiny solder spots on the cone portion of the head in opposite position.

Cheers.

Joe
RÖENTGEEP is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Router Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Using router for glue up Mickeyt Table-mounted Routing 26 01-18-2016 10:21 AM
Greater than japa62 Jigs and Fixtures 12 01-16-2013 12:03 AM
Freud Edge Guide Mystery Chappmann Jigs and Fixtures 4 12-26-2011 01:36 PM
Jig for Edge Drawer Pull Inlays Troy_Utah Jigs and Fixtures 9 01-30-2010 07:05 AM
finger joint bit for edge to edge atmartin23 Router Bits - Types and Usage 20 09-04-2009 01:51 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome