Can't remove armature from old Rockwell. - Router Forums
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-13-2016, 02:27 PM Thread Starter
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Default Can't remove armature from old Rockwell.

Hi all,

I've got an old giant Rockwell I use in a table, which is long overdue on bearing replacement. I'm having a heck of a time getting the armature out of the motor housing, and was wondering if anyone here is familiar with it. It's a model 514DM.

First, I'm assuming the lower half of the collet is in fact threaded onto the armature like all the others with a normal right hand thread. The only exploded diagram I've seen is too fuzzy to tell if there are any threads. Also, that lower part of the collet on these is round, rather than hex shaped, so you have to use a flat open-ended wrench rather than an impact wrench (which I don't own anyhow). Lastly, unlike the Porter Cables I've seen in some videos, there's almost nothing on this thing to grab in order to lock the armature in place. Most of it is up inside the body. I've even tried the technique I read about here using the two U-shaped halves of a piece of 2x4, and squeezing it into a clamp, but when I put enough torque on it, it still slipped and I'm afraid of damaging the armature or housing if I push it any further. I haven't tried heating it yet.

Am I going about this the right way, or is there some other trick to it? I'm wondering if the factory guys had some sort of jig they used.

Thanks!
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-13-2016, 04:50 PM
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@Quillman

Pat, you are the person most likely to be able to answer these questions.

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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-13-2016, 10:03 PM
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-14-2016, 10:35 AM
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Default Rockwell 514 Scimatics

This might help you with your problem:
<http://www.toolpartsdirect.com//rockwell-514-routers.html>
You can always cut and paste to get the site up. The diagram looks quite good on this page. Hope that helps you. Let us know how you do with this project, Please. Good luck!

"Even bad decisions make good stories"

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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-14-2016, 11:32 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Reg!

Unfortunately, that's the same one I was able to find. When zoomed to max, you still can't see much on that part. I guess it would be #83 in the diagram (the chuck).

I tried a heat gun last night and the armature still slipped and turned along with the wrench. I'm thinking maybe if rather than just wood blocks squeezing against the armature inside the housing, I could cut some blocks with a groove down the center, and insert a flat piece of steel, which would lock into those grooves that the windings are between. I would guess (hope) the core is strong enough to withstand that. The motor housing has four protrusions on the inside walls, so if you cut blocks of the right thickness, they'll stop when they hit one of those.

I'll see if I can work that out.

Take Care
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-14-2016, 01:06 PM Thread Starter
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Well, that worked as far as locking the armature. Worked well enough that it snapped one of the dogwood blocks. I may try it again with something harder, and with the grain oriented the right way, but it's on there tight enough that you end up not even being able to keep the whole motor housing from rotating once the armature is locked. With the clamp pressure I've used, I'm already worried that I'm warping the housing or something.

This is going to be sad if it turns out that's not even how the thing comes off.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-14-2016, 01:15 PM
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I assume that there's no way to get at the retaining ring (107)?
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-14-2016, 03:22 PM Thread Starter
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Paul,

I *think* I looked at all that stuff when I first started messing with it, but I'll double check when I go back out there. All the parts up in that area are pretty well blocked either by the fan or the case itself which only has some curved slots up there. I'll cross my fingers and hope that's holding it up.

Thanks!


<EDIT> Just checked and it looks like all you can see from those slots is the outer edge of the back of the fan.
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Last edited by Jidis; 05-14-2016 at 03:37 PM. Reason: checked the access
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-14-2016, 07:01 PM Thread Starter
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Default Success!!!!

It broke loose!

I remade the blocks out of oak with the grain perpendicular to the plates and hit it again with the same routine (heat, giant handscrew clamp,etc.). I whacked on the wrench a bunch of times to try to free it and was about to give up, then I tried using a bar clamp against the handscrew to slowly crank pressure on the wrench and it just magically started turning.

I guess all these decades of motor torque had just tightened the thing into oblivion. This thing kicks so hard when it starts I can't imagine how anybody uses it by hand. Hopefully, it won't get that bad off by the next time it needs to come off.

That retaining ring Paul mentioned is being a pain in the tail now, but at least I know what I'm up against on that one.

Take Care
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-14-2016, 10:22 PM
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Generally a "shock shot" or two will loosen better than steady increasing torque...not sure if you tried that...(see item 6 on the link)...and it shouldn't require much clamping or dogging pressure on the armature...

Reproduction Woodworks: How to replace the bearings in a Porter Cable 7518 router

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