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post #1 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-17-2016, 02:36 PM Thread Starter
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Default what am i doing wrong

Hey guys,

I am fairly new to routering but have done a fair amount for a project that i've been working on. besides some minor errors that i easily found the cause for i have a major problem which keeps me puzzeled.

i'm not sure how to explain but while using a tool to passer out some circles sometimes the bit "bites" in, ripping the wood fibres apart. this ony happens every quarter of the piece.. it does so with hugh force so there is no way of controling or preventing it.

I have a 6 bit set but for now' i've only used the 6 mm straight flute.
and i've done mainly circles (needed these for my current project).
so i though i got fairly adepted with it, and theses bite ins got "solved" after some "experience". Or so i though. but i needed some new circles,, larger diameter (21cm radius now) and it happened again. so maybe it only happens when routing with new sharp bits??

the bits i have are fom a set delivered with the router makita rt0700cx3j. am doubtfull it is makita but it did seem to be of fair quality. Lets' say it this way. my dull 6mm flute now still routers better then a brand new 6mm flute that came with a set from a friend of mine. but in time i will go and spend money on good bits.

since neither was now an option i choose to use the new sharp 12 mm bit instead of the dull 6mm. I use the router the correct direction (i believe) clockwise.. around the circle. used as much outward and downward force as i could master.
but it just ripped my plate apart. please see images.

can anyone explain how to solve this issue? what am i doing wrong.

Kind regards matthieu
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post #2 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-17-2016, 03:03 PM
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Wait, are you talking about a table mounted router or handheld?
If handheld you should be going from Left to Right, with the blank in front of you, and the router between you and it.
Have you presawn the shape almost to it's finished size...maybe an 1/8" over size?
Are you using a template, and a bit with a bearing?
There has to be some method of preventing the bit from biting too deeply(?)...

More info please, Matthieu.
But you're absolutely correct; it's not supposed to do that!
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post #3 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-17-2016, 03:20 PM
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Matt..
you need a new quality bit...
suggest Freud..

are you using a template or a circle jig and asking the router to do all of the cutting or only trimming to size w/ it??

also learn to ''read'' the grain.. (you have cross/end grain tear out)...
rough cut your circle to the finished sized a lot closer so you have way less material to trim...
you may not be cutting in the correct direction..
you may have to ''climpb cut those sections that are tearing out...
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This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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post #4 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-17-2016, 03:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaninVan View Post
Wait, are you talking about a table mounted router or handheld?
If handheld you should be going from Left to Right, with the blank in front of you, and the router between you and it.
Have you presawn the shape almost to it's finished size...maybe an 1/8" over size?
Are you using a template, and a bit with a bearing?
There has to be some method of preventing the bit from biting too deeply(?)...

More info please, Matthieu.
But you're absolutely correct; it's not supposed to do that!
those burns appear to be pauses...
sloppy circle jig???

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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post #5 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-17-2016, 04:11 PM
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And I would add, possibly you are going too fast. As the world class router Elmer Fudd once said, "Go Swow, vewy, vewy, swow.".

I've never done a circle that large, but numerous straight pieces. I also use a 1" template/master when I rout. I found out long ago, the closer you can rough cut to the line, the better off you are. But at times I can't get closer than maybe 1/2", so then it pays big time to just take tiny cuts, slowly, and just a tiny bit at a time. Usually, if I could have rough cut to maybe 1/16" to 1/8", I could have pretty well zipped along.

Oh yes, I would also pick some cheap wood to practice on first, rather than your expensive piece.

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post #6 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-17-2016, 05:00 PM
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to route that particular piece of wood you need to route in both directions part of the circle needs to be routed one way and the rest of the circle easy route of the other direction it depends on which way the grain is running your your tear out you needed routed the other direction.
MEBCWD and Herb Stoops like this.
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post #7 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-17-2016, 05:02 PM Thread Starter
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@ DaninVan: it's a makita rt0700. so a handheld one and using not a template but a "circle jig" which came with the toolset. seems to be quite stable.

@ Stick486: well as mentioned the bit i used (12mm bit) is a new sharp bit.
I'm askind the router to do all the cutting. slowly dropping the bit every round about a millimeter. But looking at your template.. i've been moving the wrong direction.. i moved clockwise. looking at the template.. this goes anti-clockwise.

About cutting only a trimming. i had bad experieces with that, it acts mostly bad in the parts where the bit isn't fully cutting it's diameter (being economic and starting close to the edge). but this all could be the 'cause by going bad direction. i will have to try it again tomorrow. but i'll go and buy a new flute 6mm tomorrow. i believe 12mm is to big to my liking anyway.

also.. indeed it goes quick.. kinda pulling itself forward. again also likely due to bad direction. but definately not pauzes.
do keep in mind. it is bamboo, hard and difficult material..

@ Joat:
indeed, as mentioned above. likely to fast due to the wrong direction. i'll give it a try on the same piece tomorrow, in the other direction. see how that will work.

Thanks to all of you. kind regards.

Matthieu
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post #8 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-17-2016, 05:04 PM
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Default Direction

this part need to change Router direction,
THIS IS A CLIMB CUT
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Last edited by Semipro; 11-18-2017 at 01:41 PM.
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post #9 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-17-2016, 05:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Semipro View Post
this part need to change Router direction,
THIS IS A CLIMB CUT
agreed..

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
Stick486 is online now  
post #10 of 33 (permalink) Old 06-17-2016, 05:32 PM
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I may be wrong as usual but it looks to me besides routing the wrong way on part of the circle you are taking heavy cuts. There are some real heavy gouges so that is what I am basing my opinion on. As others have said cut close to the line as you can get without touching it then take very light passes. Like 1/16" or 1.5875 mm. I had to look that up. Try once you start to not stop routing until you are finished. If you stop there will be a burn or mark. That is easier said than done. Try doing some practice on something else so you will gwt the feel of it.

Don in Murfreesboro,Tn.

Measure once cut twice and it's still to short.
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