Short edge routing how to pls - Router Forums
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-04-2016, 10:24 AM Thread Starter
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Question Short edge routing how to pls

I need help on profile routing a very short edge so imagine a block of wood squared up then cut a corner of at 45 degrees this new edge is only a inch long how can I use a profile bit and safely route it your help most appreciated regards Scooter331.:thank_you in advance
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-04-2016, 10:37 AM
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welcome to the forums Scot...
will you be doing this free hand or on a router table..
will you be using a bearing guided bit...

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
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"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”

Last edited by Stick486; 08-04-2016 at 10:42 AM.
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-04-2016, 10:48 AM
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router table...
use this style of clamp to hold the piece...

.


free hand..tell us more about your bit and the true size of the piece..
it will be as simple as insuring a stable router if you sre using a bearing guided bit or more complex (as in building a jig) if you haven't one..
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This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-04-2016, 11:14 AM
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Welcome Scott. Like Stick says, more specific info will be helpful but no matter what if the piece is only a few inches long it will put your fingers too close to the bit so you will need something to hold the work with. Do you have a router table? That would make things easier as you would only have to focus on holding the work and not both. You can rig up a makeshift table in an hour or even less. Voice of experience talking there.

By the way, you are able to post pictures as long as they are in your hard drive and not on a sharing site. If you need help I'll walk you through how to do that.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-04-2016, 01:09 PM
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Must be done on a sled for safety.
A router table or something like this is essential.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-05-2016, 04:37 PM
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Follow the leads form Stick and Chuck and you'll do well.

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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-06-2016, 11:47 AM
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Welcome to our sawdust pile, Scott.

Are you trying to run the router base against the edge or side of the board? Most of the time, including putting a profile like an Ogee on the board edge you would run the router base on the flat side of the board with the bit running along the edge. This should be done in a router table or with the bearing running along a template so the bit cuts at a fixed depth. If trying to flush trim a strip of wood that you glued onto the edge of a piece of plywood so both the plywood surface and the glued on solid piece is flush with each other, I sometimes clamp the plywood standing up vertical, with a 2 X 4 spacer and another piece of plywood of the same height sandwhiched together so there is a gap between the two pieces of plywood. I then use a bottom bearing flush cutting bit in my router, with the router base sitting level on top of these two pieces of plywood, to route off the excess of the solid piece. I then turn the plywood being trimmed around in the vice to route off the opposite side to make both edges of the solid piece of wood match the flat surfaces of the plywood. Having two pieces of plywood with the top edges the same height gives you a more stable and level area for the router base to ride on. The router bit will only remove the wood that extend beyond where the bearing touches the plywood.

Please be more detailed in what you are trying to do, so that we can provide a better answer. One of these answers might be right, but if not, more detail of what you are trying to do will be necessary. Pictures might help too.

Charley

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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-06-2016, 11:53 AM
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You can use a sled, however, since you are working on a 45 degree angle cut, you can also cut a 45 degree across a piece of wood or even MDF and brace the workpiece and pass both across the bit. Can't imagine trying to do this freehand, this is a job for a router table. A decent sled will set you back about $100.

The more I do, the less I accomplish.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-06-2016, 11:56 AM
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it's a job for DS tape and a field of router support around the the piece being worked on...

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-06-2016, 01:09 PM
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Scott...can you provide the dimensions of the piece...? It will help to give you some ideas on how to hold it, clamp it, etc... It sounds like a very small piece based on "square" and "1 inch" diagonal...

Nick

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