Best alternative to Pat Warner sub base - Page 2 - Router Forums
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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-05-2017, 11:58 PM Thread Starter
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https://images.amain.com/images/large/tra/tra4859.jpg

Tom, those are what I have, the head is 1/2”D and 1/8” thick, the threads are big, 5/16-8.
I have only a Forstner bit to drill with, it is sharp, or I could use a router bit in a drillmotor.
The Forstner has a starting point enabling a far more precise bore. No end mills or drillpress
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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-06-2017, 07:24 AM
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@DaleFiorillo

I'm assuming that the threads in your router are 5/16" - 18?

The head dimensions for a 5/16" button head capscrew are .547" max dia x .166" max height. I'm not sure what you have there, but it look almost as if there is a step right under the head that you would have to consider when you drill the clearance hole. I personally would try to get a button head, there are several vendors that sell small quantities - I buy a lot from Bolt Depot who sell by the piece, but try to combine my order because of the shipping. Another place to try is Fastenal or Ace hardware if you have either locally.

I've never used a Forstner bit to drill acrylic although I believe that there are members on the forum that have done that - here's a video about drilling acrylic with a Forstner bit
- not sure what he's using as a lubricant/coolant but I didn't have the volume turned on. I found another of his videos, and he's using water.

If the Forstner bit is OK for drilling the hole, I'd drill the counterbore first, using the center mark from the pointed setscrew, and you'll still have the center from the Forstner bit to locate the through hole. You will have to put a chamfer at the top of the hole to clear the radius under the head so that the screw doesn't bind up on the radius. So, 5/8" Forstner bit to get the counterbore, 11/32" through hole and a slight chamfer at the top of the through hole - keep as small as possible while still providing room to clear the radius under the head, drop the screw in there and check that you have a little wiggle room.

Hope this helps.
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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-06-2017, 07:34 PM Thread Starter
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Yup, 5/16”x18. I measured the head and it’s .457” D, and .125” high. It looks like a buttonhead that
has been filed flat. If my calculations are right I should buy a 9/16” Forstner, not a 5/8”. The Freund has a wave
edge cutter which is supposed to do a good job. Following with an 11/32” normal for an expanded
through hole. There is no step under the head. There must be a metric equivalent to that 5/16”-18 because
these screws came with a set of imported outdoor furniture.
Tom, would a 5/8” be too big? It’s only another 16th, and I can get it locally.
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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-06-2017, 08:23 PM
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@DaleFiorillo

I think that the 5/8" will be fine, you shouldn't be too close to any other hole. Using the centering guide and cone point setscrews to mark the hole locations, you should be pretty close to centered so probably won't need that much clearance, but the extra won't hurt. You'll have about 1/32" diametral clearance on the bolt body/threads, a little extra on the head counterbore isn't going to hurt, the important thing is to have a little more clearance on the head so you don't hit there and run out of adjustment. I only have a couple of sizes of end mills, and just use that one that's closest while still providing the needed clearance - better to have a little more rather than not enough.

If you have a piece of scrap acrylic, it might be an idea to practice your drilling technique on that, make sure that there aren't going to be any surprises when your drilling the good part.
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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-07-2017, 05:56 PM Thread Starter
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Well, I got the Eagle kit, and the base did install nicely, but something is a little off. When a bushing is
pushed in it is not flush. It protudes about the thickness of a cd. Is there any reason I shouldn’t mill down
the plastic til the brass bushing sits flush?
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post #16 of 16 (permalink) Old 02-10-2018, 07:19 PM
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Default is eagle router plate center hole stepped for flush fit?



When I look at the image above, I see the the outside diameter of the bushing is stepped. Is the eagle baseplate center hole also stepped to accommodate this such that it will sit flush / or under the surface?

I'm looking at buying the
Eagle #415-0307 7" round Router Plate - with 1 3/16" center hole
Eagle #401-1230 M4 Router Plate Centering Kit:
Uses a centering disc that fits into any router plate with a 1-3/16" stepped hole that accepts a standard "Porter Cable" style template guide bushing.
Eagle #400-1459 9 piece Brass template Guide Set :
Template guides can be used directly with any router having a baseplate with a 1-3/16"* diameter center hole.
The kit contains two lock nuts and seven different template guides (5/16", 3/8", 7/16", 1/2", 5/8", 3/4", and 51/64" OD).

Previous response indicates there is a "cd" sized offset. Does that mean the baseplate center hole is not stepped? If so, how would I step it?
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