Best alternative to Pat Warner sub base - Router Forums
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-03-2017, 11:57 PM Thread Starter
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Default Best alternative to Pat Warner sub base

I did not know of pat’s passing til I read of it here, hours after I sent a request. I
have sent an apology. My question is there any similar base out there? Spent so
many hours today researching this, and came to two options. First is the Leigh 706R,
which really blocks the working visibility, the second is the Jasper M575. The latter is
very highly rated, thick clear plastic, and comes with a 1/2” brass centering tool, it
appears to fasten with only 2 screws! I’ll not be doing any lettering or dovetailig, just
edge and mortising with patterns.
So, any advice or recomendations?

Last edited by DaleFiorillo; 11-04-2017 at 12:03 AM.
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-04-2017, 07:23 AM
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I have several of Pat's base plates, as well as his circle cutting jig, all high quality workmanship.

I've never cared for the "universal" plates, with multiple sets of holes in them. For a new plate, I would buy one of these Router Plates - Universal Template Guide Plates. They also sell the sets of cone point setscrews in different thread sizes to match your router. When fitting a new plate to a router, I install the setscrews and the centering tool, in the router, put the plate in place and tap with a mallet to mark the hole centers. Drill a hole that's a slight clearance with the body of the attaching screw, flat bottom counterbore the bottom of the plate and install with button head capscrews - the 3/8" thick plates provide plenty of material to hive the heads of the capscrews.
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-04-2017, 11:09 AM Thread Starter
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I did not see that one, it looks perfect. Two questions:
1. I assume a 1/2” bushing is installed, then the plate is lowered onto the 1/2” metal dowel,
and then do the tapping onto the pointed screws.
2. I think I read where the mounting holes are to be drilled oversize, which
is for fine centering?
They did not list an installation kit for the Ryobi, so I emailed them. Web pages
are not always current. I really do thank you for your link. This is an
incredible forum.
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-04-2017, 12:35 PM
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Here is the link for the centering kits they have available. You can use them for making your own plates for special use and they locate the holes accurately so you don't end up with screws going in at an angle and destroying threads in your base.

http://www.eagleamerica.com/product/..._router_plates

Mike
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-04-2017, 01:39 PM Thread Starter
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The link for the kit did not show up, but that’s ok as I see it Eagles’ website. If I use your method of drilling and use cap screws
will I have some wiggle room ?
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-05-2017, 05:28 AM
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An alternate way of transferring hole centers is to get a set of transfer punches. They are just hardened rods of many common diameters, like a drill index, but with just a sharp point on one end. You pick the diameter that just fits through the hole that you want to transfer the center of, slide it through that hole until it hits the piece that you are making, and give the punch a tap with a hammer. You will have a mark on your new piece that perfectly matches the center of the hole in the original piece. Harbor Freight sells these transfer punch sets for about $15. You can find them at tool supply stores at increased prices. Since I'm always making copies of hole patterns like this, I have a set in my woodworking shop and another in the metalworking shop.

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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-05-2017, 06:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaleFiorillo View Post
The link for the kit did not show up, but thatís ok as I see it Eaglesí website. If I use your method of drilling and use cap screws
will I have some wiggle room ?
If you use the centering guide to locate the router plate relative to the spindle, and the pointed setscrews to mark the center of the holes, you should be pretty well centered on the guide bushing. The through holes for the capscrews should be slightly larger than the OD of the threads - I believe Pat Warner recommended something on the order of .008 - .010" - and this should be enough to get the guide bushing centered to the collet. I have a couple different size end mills that I use to make the flat-bottomed counterbore for the capscrews, just make sure that the clearance to the OD of the screw head is slightly greater than the clearance in the through hole so that you don't lose the adjustment - do not use flat head screws as they tend to self-center on the sides of the countersink and you have will have no adjustment.

One recommendation - put a reference mark on the router base and baseplate so that they can be reassembled in the same location if the baseplate is ever removed.
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-05-2017, 10:44 AM
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If you switch to round head screws and use a thicker sub base, just enough so you can countersink the round heads, then you can make the holes a bit oversize. Then when you install a centering device you can tighten the screws while the plate is centered to the router.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-05-2017, 07:28 PM Thread Starter
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What a great response, this turned out good. I ordered the Eagle 7” clear disc, but their install kit was no help as it
uses countersunk screws, and the tapping screws were way too small. I could have bought my own screws, but
I’d still be out the centering hardware. I ordered a centering kit from Ttrackusa that has the right tapping screws,
a 1/2” rod, and a disc, not a cone.
A lot of good advice in this thread, I really appreciate it. Would the assembly be worth a photo/post?
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-05-2017, 09:36 PM
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Pictures and a story are always welcome Dale.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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