baseplate + bushing = routing blind? - Page 2 - Router Forums
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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-26-2018, 03:11 PM Thread Starter
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OK .. I understand the mechanics of making a DUPLICATE of an existing insert. In my case the top of the saw is not flat from corner to corner and the miter slots are sharp causing binding for anything moving in the slot. See the attached image.

so I will take a piece of birch plywood and put three pieces of birch plywood on top separated by "perfect" aluminum miter slots. The center of the three will need an insert cutout. See image with no orange. A template with a hole for my pattern would work to make the place for the insert. Similar to inlay process, I was thinking that if I use a bushing with OD of 3/8" for the saw top and switch to a bushing with an OD of 7/16" but same template and bit, when I cut the insert it SHOULD make an insert that is 1/32" smaller all around (if I understand the process correctly). See image with orange insert. Once I have an insert that fits proper, I can make that insert into template and all others made from it will be exactly the same.

I haven't started building yet, so if you all have any other suggestions of a better/easier way, please let me hear it.

I don't understand inserting images. why can't I put it in middle of what I am explaining??


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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-27-2018, 08:51 AM
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That kind of looks like my 3612. Are you saying there are bushing guides that fit that opening and screwed in place from below but are 40mm ID to allow the collet/chuck to pass through? I will have to search for bushing guide instead of bushing guide ADAPTER. All I saw was an adapter to allow using Porter Cable bushing guides.

dmac257
Makita, at least hear in Australia make a wide range of template guides including 40mm. Before I started with health problems I made and sent LOTS of 40mm Makita style guides to members in America, all as presents, I even made and sent a few SETS of metric guides to friends in America.
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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-27-2018, 09:09 AM
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One other possibility that is much simpler. Make the top two layers and make the top layer out of 4 separate pieces. Two full length ones for each side and two short ones for front to back. Leave a gap between the two short pieces that is a long enough and wide enough gap to be your insert. There is no particularly good reason why it has to be a long oval. Then you can use the saw to cut replacements in a fraction of the time.
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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-27-2018, 11:15 PM
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That kind of looks like my 3612. Are you saying there are bushing guides that fit that opening and screwed in place from below but are 40mm ID to allow the collet/chuck to pass through? I will have to search for bushing guide instead of bushing guide ADAPTER. All I saw was an adapter to allow using Porter Cable bushing guides.

dmac257
Your last sentence has only just sunk in, those adaptors are next to useless, no chuck will pass through them, not only that, but if the router is plunged too far and it touches the adaptor it can unscrew it and send it flying! I know from experience!
Here is a pdf of a project that I posted some time ago which shows deep routing.
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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-05-2018, 08:12 PM Thread Starter
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One other possibility that is much simpler. Make the top two layers and make the top layer out of 4 separate pieces. Two full length ones for each side and two short ones for front to back. Leave a gap between the two short pieces that is a long enough and wide enough gap to be your insert. There is no particularly good reason why it has to be a long oval. Then you can use the saw to cut replacements in a fraction of the time.
I read this twice and the thought ... Duh! Why didn't I think of that?

sort of like this?

between the two miter tracks is four pieces glued down and the insert with easy cutting. Great Idea!!

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post #16 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-06-2018, 10:42 AM
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Yes, like that. If you use 3/8 or 1/2 (can’t remember the outside height of mitre track) material for the top layer then you could piece around the tracks. Thicker material would require grooves for the track.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #17 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-12-2018, 12:45 AM Thread Starter
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Yes, like that. If you use 3/8 or 1/2 (canít remember the outside height of mitre track) material for the top layer then you could piece around the tracks. Thicker material would require grooves for the track.
yeah, I was planning to do bottom layer of 3/8" and piece around the aluminum miter track with 1/2".. trouble is the track is slightly thicker than the 1/2" so I will have to chase the channel with the router to trim some of the bottom under the track. My first actual use of my new router besides practice.

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