baseplate + bushing = routing blind? - Router Forums
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-25-2018, 02:57 PM Thread Starter
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Default baseplate + bushing = routing blind?

I am new to using a router and have never used a bushing before. There is no holes in my baseplate or bushing adapter and the bushing guide all combined to completely obstruct the view. Is this intended to be a "route by feel" process? What is the best way to practice using template and bushing so I don't make a mistake when it counts? I am making a new top for my table saw and want to make zero clearance inserts from a template so I can make them again later as needed.

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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-25-2018, 03:54 PM
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@DMac

Are you doing this hand held or on a router table?

The easiest way would be to use a table and a flush trim bit. The flush trim bit has a bearing which is at the end of the bit away from the router. On a table mounted router, the bearing would be the uppermost part of the bit. With the template attached to your stock, you run the stock against the bit so that the bearing rides along your bit and trims the excess from your table saw plate. In this manner, you always feed the stock from right to left, with the bit to the right of the template/stock.

If you were to do this handheld , the bearing would be near the bottom and you would then keep your stock/template to the left of the bit, but still feed from right to left. It would be a lot harder to secure the stock/template in this fashion.

If you use a bushing, you have to take into account the offset of the bushing, meaning the template would have to be smaller than the finished size of the insert. Depends on the OD (outside diameter) of the bushing and the size of the bit. You don't need a bearing with a bushing.

Hope that all makes sense.
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-25-2018, 04:25 PM
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For Practice....
Bushing on, , bit in place, motor off...find and feel a straight edge of any board...run the router right to left (or towards you) with board on the right of router...pick up router at end of travel and continue til arms hurt
Bushing on, bit in place, motor off...do the same as above with any piece of wood that has curves/angles/dangles....you get the idea...

Then, do the same thing with the motor on...get the feel of the vibrations against and away from the wood...

Then, clamp a couple of straight pieces together so that the bottom board is proud of the top board by about 1/8"...route sufficiently til you get the feel of the bushing hitting the top piece and the cut against the bottom piece...take the router away and look at your starting point...is it smooth, not jumpy, etc... Repeat as necessary...

Then, have at it...you're ready to go...

...be safe...
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-25-2018, 05:13 PM
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to accurately use your insert as a tenplate use a bearing guided trim bit...

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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-25-2018, 06:25 PM
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Here is a video that my help
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-25-2018, 06:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vchiarelli View Post
@DMac The easiest way would be to use a table and a flush trim bit. The flush trim bit has a bearing which is at the end of the bit away from the router. On a table mounted router, the bearing would be the uppermost part of the bit. With the template attached to your stock, you run the stock against the bit so that the bearing rides along your bit and trims the excess from your table saw plate. In this manner, you always feed the stock from right to left, with the bit to the right of the template/stock.
Yep, exactly, except I say master, instead of template. The only trick is to make your template perfect, then all your duplicates will be identical. I trace around my master, then rough cut the stock within about 1/8" to 1/4" from the line, 1/8" is preferred, if 1/4" may have to rout slower. You can attach the stock with rubber cement or double sided tape, I drill pilot holes in my masters and use small nails - nail on the 'bad' side of the stock, then the nail holes are on the bottom. Also make my masters of two layers 1/2" plywood, my preference.

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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-25-2018, 07:45 PM
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I made a bunch of blank saw inserts not long ago for my Unisaw. It has a fairly thick insert so I used it and a pattern bit (upper shaft mounted bearing). I rough cut the inserts to close to size with a jig saw and then stuck the blanks to the saw's insert with a few dabs of hot melt glue then I clamped them on the edge of a bench and routed til I hit the clamps. Then reclamped and finished them. A half dozen inserts took maybe 30 minutes. Remember to drill a finger hole off to one side so that you can pull them when you need. I wrote on the underside of them what blade I used them for and whether I used stabilizers with the blade.
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-26-2018, 08:42 AM
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One of the several features that I list as important when choosing a router is a LARGE opening in the base. This allows LARGE template guides to be used which in turn allow the chuck to pass through, giving a greater depth of cut. These shots illustrate what I mean.
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-26-2018, 11:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cherryville Chuck View Post
I wrote on the underside of them what blade I used them for and whether I used stabilizers with the blade.
I believe that writing info on things like that is one of the more important things you can do in the shop. On every one of my masters I write anything useful I can think of. Besides not needing to think about what the master is for, etc., the writing stops you from using the master in whatever project you are working on - and then you have to make another master, DAHIKT.

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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-26-2018, 01:55 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harrysin View Post
One of the several features that I list as important when choosing a router is a LARGE opening in the base. This allows LARGE template guides to be used which in turn allow the chuck to pass through, giving a greater depth of cut. These shots illustrate what I mean.
That kind of looks like my 3612. Are you saying there are bushing guides that fit that opening and screwed in place from below but are 40mm ID to allow the collet/chuck to pass through? I will have to search for bushing guide instead of bushing guide ADAPTER. All I saw was an adapter to allow using Porter Cable bushing guides.

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