Shaker door with trim inside - Page 3 - Router Forums
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post #21 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-26-2019, 12:09 PM
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@megamatch Did you put those height adjustment screws in? They will allow you to make the plate level with the laminate surface much easier than trying to make the rabbet the exact depth as the thickness of the plate. You can use screws instead, through small holes pre-drilled through the second layer lip. Drill it out slightly smaller than the screw. File the sharp ends of the screws off so they're nice and flat so they can support the plate in at lease 6 places. Use a straight edge to line the top of the plate with the table surface. The adjusting screws should be at least half an inch longer than the thickness of the rabbet, and I'd use a fairly thick screw to keep more of the thread surface in maximum contact with the wood. It's the friction that keeps them in place, so don't wax the threads. Thead the screws in before cutting, back them out, cut and file them smooth or even slightly rounded, then reinsert them. As I understand what you said, this seems like the solution.
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Last edited by DesertRatTom; 01-26-2019 at 12:23 PM.
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post #22 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-26-2019, 06:07 PM
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Originally Posted by megamatch View Post
Hello again!

Yes using a rabbet was my intended idea, the problem is my router is made for handheld and you cannot remove the handles thus the insert plate need to be a little bit bigger. was going to use some scrap plywood i had lying around, but when i made the plate out of it and with a rabbet in the table (and because the plate had to be bigger, due to not removing handles etc) the plate started to "fail" in the middle, now my poor english shows. dont know how to say but plate was going down in middle where router was attached?

as the the table itself the top will be made from laminat kitchen countertop (my friend had some leftover from doing his kitchen).

I think I could probably easily fix this with maybe some thicker aluminium or maybe 8mm acrylic sheet, I just havent been able to head to the shops yet, working fulltime and 2 small children, I am doing all this once they are asleep.

Maybe you tried this already...did you try turning the router so the handles are diagonal to the cutout...? Maybe it fits through the hole that way...?

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post #23 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-28-2019, 06:05 AM Thread Starter
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@megamatch Did you put those height adjustment screws in?
I made a order via amazon but I haven't received them yet. The plywood I had for plate was too weak, I've since changed it do MDF. I think the weight was too much for the plywood I used. Now it's hopefully holding up good, just need to buy some longer screws to attach it, even though I removed the bottom acrylic plate from the router the screws that came with it was missing like 5mm. Already widen the holes for the heads but dont want to put them deeper inside, afraid it might make it too weak.

Feel I am making progress, just taking time to get the stuff I need.

I have a question about the insert plate fitting though, the insert plate is done, holes fit but I need screws. Want to make a fitting to the table. If I attach the plate to the routertabletop, building a temporary frame around it and use that frame for guideline with my router, do I need to use a guide bushing? If so I need calculate the offset I recon.

Also, if make the insert plate so that when I use the table the wood I use come from the same direction as it would if I handheld it that would mean the insert plate would not be "along the table" but the longer side would cross the table (due to the handles on the router). Would it be safe to turn the router insert plate 90 degrees? Hopefully this makes sense!

Thanks alot again for awesome help!
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post #24 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-30-2019, 12:21 PM
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Remember you want to be able to reach both the on/off switch AND the lock lever. You should be able to just lift the plate out with the router attached even with handles. At least with the smaller Rockler plate, I was able to pull the plate and router out with ease.

Remember to pre drill in the MDF, otherwise it will split on you. The ply will do most of the load bearing, the MDF will keep it flat. If you're a fuss budget, you can put a couple of trusses under neath, using screws through the truss and all the way into the ply. That means calculating the length of screw you'll need, and putting a stop on the bit you pre drill the truss with. You don't want the screws to get too close to the ply's surface or you'll have a little "pimple" to deal with.

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