Shaker door with trim inside - Router Forums
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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-17-2019, 06:19 AM Thread Starter
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Default Shaker door with trim inside

Hello,

I recently bought a router for making some baseboards, kinda of fell in love with it and a whole world of potential projects opened up. It's a Bosch Pof 1200w so I can only fit 6mm, 8mm and 1/4 bits.

Unfortnately I have a very slim budget at the moment after the holidays but I want to make some shaker style closet doors with a round trim on the frame towards the panel.

Currently using on "simple" router bits. What is good way to make a sturdy frame using simple bits? Looking for some jigg ideas.
If I can make these closet doors I am sure it will motivate my second half to invest more into routing

Also for the panel i have some 12mm plywood lying about, what is a good way to match the groove to the plywood? My experience is that the plywood width is usually not always accurate when you buy it. Thinking maybe making the frame with 21mm or 25mm wood, depending on what you guys suggest here.

Any help for a amateur is appreciated
Might add: English is not my native language and routing lingo is not my safezone.
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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-17-2019, 12:07 PM
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Mega it really is important in cases like yours to fill out your profile. Our suggestions are going to depend a lot on whether you have other tools to work with. Since you are working in metric and English is not your first language I'm guessing somewhere in continental Europe? That can matter too. Your English is very good by the way and I don't think that will cause problems. A name or nickname would be good too.
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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-17-2019, 12:54 PM
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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-17-2019, 03:26 PM
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Welcome. Your English is quite good. Your other tools is important to respond to your question. There are almost always other ways to do any particular project. I don't know what kind of saw you have, but nothing will work unless you have the saw blade a perfect 90 degree cut. You could use a chop saw (cheapest way) but you must make certain the blade is 90 degrees to the base. You can check this with a good draftsman's triangle. Most all cheap carpenter triangles are NOT square and can be off by 1-3 degrees, which will make it impossible to glue them and keep the frame square.

For starters, do you have your router in a table, or are you using it freehand. If in a table you'll be safer. A table can be made very easily from a sheet of plywood and a fence made of several strips of very straight plywood or a very straight piece of wood with vises to hold it in place.

You will need to make your long and short door pieces with a groove on one edge, then roundover that edge. That will take a couple of bits, one a slot cutter, the other probably a 6mm (about 1/4 inch imperial) roundover bit with a bearing. Cut the roundover first on one side. Then cut the groove. You can cut the groove with a slot cutter, then widen it to fit the panel loosely by raising the router bit slightly until the plywood panel fits. Plywood is a good choice for panels since it doesn't expand or shrink very much. Finish the panel before you assemble it.

Be extremely careful choosing your wood for the long (rails) and short (Stiles) pieces that make up the door's frame. It must be very straight and you'll need quite a bit of it. You will also want to buy at least one extra piece of the same material for test cuts and alignment purposes, and to test your finish on. Unless you are painting the door, you should try to match the color and grain as best you can.

Make all the same cuts at the same time. You will NEVER be able to get a perfect match on height settings if you reset the router height between cuts.

If I were you, I'd make a quick router table first. Lots of plans on the site for making one. Keep it very simple as noted.

You will also need some clamps wide and long enough to hold the door in place while the glue sets. And you will need to go to youtube to learn how to use a tape mesure and long clamp to make your door frame square. You can use pipe clamps, which are reasonably cheap and can be adjusted for length. Use slow setting glue!!!! Give yourself time to fiddle with the frame. Regular wood glue is solid as a rock in a couple of minutes.

By the way,

The joint between the rails and styles will be a tongue and groove arrangement. That means that in addition to the groove in each, you will have to have a little extra length stile (short piece) so you can use your groove cuttter to cut the tongue by removing the excess on both sides of the tongue edge. cut stiles the length you want, PLUS double the depth of the groove for the tongue. See picture.

Trial fit on short pieces when cutting the tongue. You can rough cut first, then use sand paper on a flat wood block to make the final fit. It should be snug, but NOT over-thick.

If you use the table, cut everything with the final face DOWN.

If you try this freehand, buy more extra wood and work with the final face UP. If doing this freehand, you want to lay your workpiece next to the extra piece so you can steady your router across both pieces. Clamp the pieces down before you start cutting the grooves and roundover freehand.

Here's a video on cutting this joint on a table. Your table will be simpler, but the method is the same. The still picture is at the bottom of this post. This got a little longer than I intended at first, but as we say, the devil is in the details.
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Last edited by DesertRatTom; 01-17-2019 at 03:30 PM.
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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-17-2019, 09:24 PM
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Megamatch...One thing to remember, using the typical technique Tom described above, is the weight of the door being supported by only one of the stiles. This will make the door sag, depending on it's width.

One technique around this weight problem is to make the tenons on the rails longer and deeper into the stiles. Another plus is to add a rail somewhere in the center of the door which would then require two panels. You can place this center rail to please your own eye. But this is not likely to be done with "simple bits" and would require some chiseling to make the mortise side.

Maybe you can list the bits you have and other tools...maybe other approaches are available...you can do that in your profile...

Good luck...welcome to the forum...and don't worry about your English..wait til you see some our typing...LOL...
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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-18-2019, 08:28 AM
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In addition to the above comments keep in mind that if you do round the edge of the frame next to the panel the corners will not meet correctly. You will have two rounded edges at each corner which will look bad. The only way to do it would be to make a separate piece of 1/4" round molding and add it after the door has been built. Given the small set back from the frame and the panel I don't think that it is feasible. If I were doing it and had only limited tools I would do the following.
Cut a groove preferably using a table saw the size of the thickness of the panel. If you can get 1/4" mdf that would be the best choice as it is actually 1/4" thick. Then drill two pocket holes in each rail. If you don't have a pocket hole jig either buy one or make one, you will thank me for the rest of your life once you have used one.Then temporarily assemble the frame with one pocket hole screw in each corner and using a round over bit round over the inside edge, this will make the corners as well as the side round. Then cut 4 splines to fill in the visible grooves on the top and bottom. Then put glue in the grooves and splines insert the panel and clamp everything together. To hide the pocket holes use wood putty. This is how I built the vanity shown. I have a shaker rail and stile set but didn't want the bevel edges.
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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-18-2019, 11:29 AM
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Forgot about the rounded corners. And splines are an even simpler way of joining the pieces. You only have to cut the groove. Making the corners meet will require doing what Art suggests. Or, try this, the easiest possible way to do what you want is to use some small quarter round, cut it carefully at a 45 degree angle, and fit each piece of quarter round as you go round the door, and then glue it in place.

If you don't have a Japanese pull saw yet, do order one. It is a tool you'll probably use forever and that you'll use often. It cuts on the pull stroke and is razor sharp. (see pix) You have to eventually replace the blade, it can't be sharpened. You will need either some kind of 45 degree miter box or my favorite standby, some filler. I found the very best wood filler is called Timber Mate, an Australian product. (see pix)
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post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-18-2019, 02:25 PM
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If you use a round-over bit on a door frame, you end up with rounded corners sorta like the picture of my mirror frame. Even this could be difficult because you need enough surface for the bearing to ride on for doing the routing. If you have a slot for your panel already cut then that limits where your bearing can ride. Usually a simple round-over in a door is done with a rail and stile set. You wouldn't need the bit on the right if you're using a flat panel.
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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-18-2019, 03:47 PM Thread Starter
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Hey guys,

must say im impressed with all the feedback, today is my sons birtday and been meaning to dive into all this but havent been able to find time, rather then replying very late I just wanted to say, I'll make a more detailed response later.
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post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old 01-19-2019, 12:06 PM Thread Starter
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Okay finally manage to get some more time.

First thanks for the suggestion @Cherryville Chuck I will do so soon as I am able. I reside in sweden and we are using the metric system, here the router bits are very expensive, finished set for doors is roughly 250 euro.

@MT Stringer thanks mate!

@DesertRatTom I have a old chop saw that was a handmedown from a old friend, however the degree's on it was setup incorrectly so I always have to measure it every time, kind of annoying but I think it's given me a good habit.
I have intended to build a router table but I figured based on the suggestions here it might change how I build it, looking at a few videos I think I'll make a few wooden featherboards for example, especially if I need to make the groove with my rail and tiles standing up. Actually intended to make a door first made from leftover wood since I change the panel on my house, just to see how it goes before I make the final doors. At the moment I have a table saw here as well, but I need return it soon.
Going to check out tape measure, never even heard of that before.

@Nickp that's a good suggestion, actually intended the frame to be about 90mm width to match the other cabinet doors, also planned have 2 rails on the middle of the door creating 3 "panel boxes"

@mgmine just checked pocket hole jigg prices, about 150euros... think I'll make one, they look kinda awesome though

@DesertRatTom I dont have a japanese pull saw, never saw the need but it was the same with the router and all of a sudden a whole world opens up, it does look like a good way to get the corners looking good, i much prefer that over round trim in the corners because it aligns with the rest of the doors in the house.

@TenGees yes this was what I was looking at first, buying a ready set. but currently my experience is too bad to know which bits are good and the "obvious" good ones seems to cost a fortune. Is it possible to add a 1/2 shank/collet (what's the difference between the two?) to my 1200w router or would it be too weak? seems most "fun bits" are made to be used with 1/2 shank/collet.
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